vidospace

Added SAFC and price drop on indicator.

There are a few supras up on Ebay for stupidly low prices that you get a similar email back from. No feedback, generic username and hotmail account, typical Nigerian type scam. I am surprised they havent been removed by ebay yet.

Hi, Can anyone tell me the approximate cost to pull out a GTR engine and replace it with another engine? Also how much would it cost to take out the engine, and replace the block (assume I supply a complete built block with not sump) and fit it back. I just want to get an average price for these before I go ahead and ask a mechanic. Bryce

Added more items

I have my rims for sale (as of this Sunday). They need new tyres but are in good nick otherwise. They are Jap rims and are currently on my GTR. They are 17x9 Check the link in my signature for an idea of how they look. After $700

Still not sure of the problem, but if I do need to rebuild I will be getting new pistons anyway. Question though. I have heard that forged pistions are better if you boost it up from factory, but I have also heard they are noisy and chew oil when the engine is cold. Is there any alternative or fix for this? Surely there is a way to have high boost but without the problems of forged pistons.

Sold pending payment

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I have a front passenger indicator in great condition. PM me with an offer (no wiring)

yep!

All region Plays CDs DVD (and R+ & R-), DivX, and Mp3, and RW Remote and instructions included Quality cables included Asking $80 Sydney pickup Can deliver for $25 Australia wide

Also suits S13 S14 180SX. Brand new, never installed. I baught this as I thought my whole shifter was broken but it ended up just being the plastic cap at the base. No longer required as I am happy with the standard throw. Suits GTST or GTR using the factory end cap. $50 Pics soon. Call 0416275449. Can deliver Australia wide for $10.

new pics added

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Sorry to bring up this topic again but are you saying that the SAFC1 cant run 2 air flow meters on a RB26 for example? Why? Isnt it just one input on the ECU?

No oil in water or vice versa. No smoke from exhaust other than when gunning it (which my mechanic did to check only!). My mechanic and his boss both think it is a valve or gasket rather than a cylinder. This is good news for me! If it is the head gasket I will put in a Tomei restrictor at the same time. He also said it could be loosing compression to the next cylinder along too. He is going to do a "wet" compression test this weekend and we will take it from there. Thanks for the advice so far people.

Question: Is the "ambient temperature" the same as the set temperature? If not you have your answer. Auto will blow as hard as posible to bring the temp down to the set level then it will reduce the fan speed. If it doesnt, and your freezing your tits off, best get the sensors checked out.

1993 EG Civic VTi Hatch - Auto [NSW/Sydney (Kogarah)] 1993 EG Civic VTi Hatch - Auto Car: 1993 Mileage: 137000 Extra Comments: 1993 - White Rego 137000kms Full service history and Log Books 17inch chrome dished rims Falken tyres (near new) Air Conditioning, Power Steering, Power Windows Sunroof (no leaks works perfectly) Rare Auto transmission Good paint with no rust - colour coded hatch spoiler Pioneer head unit Jaycar 2 ways front, Pioneer rears Veilside steering wheel Carbon shifter K&N filter inbox Quality mirror tinting Remote Central Locking Alarm Never lowered or had any engine mods. 2nd owner - have owned for past 5 years Selling due to buying a CRX for the girlfriend, otherwise we wouldn’t have sold it at all. Very Good Condition: Very clean, economical and reliable car to drive. Price $8,990 Negotiable Contact Details Bryce 0416275449 or PM Pics

PM sent Yeah I can probably rip it out with my mechanics help. Its a sad sad day. Oh well, at least I will have a more relighable engine after this big cost

Engine/Car: RB26DETT Type of failure: 80 Compression in one cylinder (not sure of fault yet, but will post again when the engine is out) Factors influencing the failure: Old car, no service history State of tune of the engine: Close to stock but has been boosted in the past Suspension and tyres: na Oil used and service interval: Just replaced all fluids, full service and everything. General comments: Car runs fine. Doesnt chew oil or coolant and doesnt overheat. BUT it runs like crap. Miss fires, looses power across the rev range, very sluggish in the mornings. Time for a rebuild.

Hmm.... well I found out number 3 = 80 compression. Not good... So am I now making it worse driving it around????? Also anyone know a good engine builder in Sydney who doesnt charge the earth? I am sure it is just the piston/ring as all other levels are perfectly fine (oil preasure, coolant, temps etc). I am not after a fancy rebuild with forged pistons etc. Close to factory (with say a restrictor plug for the oil added to the head, and an N1 oil pump). How much would I be looking at for labour if I sourced the pistons, rings, oil pump, and restrictor myself?

Oh! I didnt know that was a sign of trouble! I havnt really checked the pipes yet (no catch can yet) but will do!

Hi, If you have read my recent posts here you would know my car is running like crap below boost but runs fine onboost. I took it to MRT today <puts on flame suit> to get my suspension aligned and they did a check on the compression at the same time. They said that I have to get all the coil packs replaced (yes I know that is crap, but I am getting spitfires anyway) and that number 3 cylinder is low on compression. Now I want to know if the car is running OK after replacing the coils, would I nessesarily have to strip the engine down? Surely a small drop in compression on one cylinder is not grounds for a full rebuild. Whats the "braking point" when it comes to compression levels and rebuilds. I mean the car has at least 110000ks on it (if not more) so I know it is wearing out, but it doesnt feel like a car that needs a full rebuild. Is there anything else I can do to keep it running OK without a full rebuild? Bryce

38 for dry, 36 for wet. Thats fairly safe.

Oh I should also note that there is only a very very minor fluctuation in rpm at idle. Like 2mm if that on the needle. It starts fine and idles fine too (at 1000rpm)