RORZ_JZA70

The non vvti 1J is choked by a shitful exhaust and intake which no doubt will be replaced anyway. You are comparing figures of bog standard cars when you would struggle to find a supra or chaser without at least an exhaust. I have driven an vvti 1JZ back to back with twin turbo (both with minor mods) and believe me the vvti isn't a torque monster with a totally different feel. The low and mid range punch is similar and the twin turbo just runs away from the vvti 1JZ as soon as you're out of 1st gear. This is backed up with quarter mile ET's and MPH on countless time cards posted on supra and chaser forums. Even the 60 footers are slower on the vvti cars. You're a keyboard warrior and a dickhead.

1JZ's do NOT sound like vacuum cleaners.... I had a JZA70 with twin high mount HKS turbos with dual pods (no AFM to worry about), PFC and supporting mods and it sounded f**king insane. Had this tough deep sound til about 4k when all hell broke loose. They rev out like you wouldn't believe even with completely standard internals. I ran this setup on 20 psi on pump fuel as a daily driver for a year with no problems. Even with a pod and exhaust they sound pretty angry.... Also, the twin turbo 1J's are not all that more laggy than the single turbo vvti 1J's. It is not a difference like 2500rpm compared to 4000rpm with the twins like posted above. With a decent twin dump setup, free flowing exhaust and a pod I'd say it would be every but as responsive as an RB25 with similar mods. The oem twin turbos are also capable of 230-240KW at the wheels (with supporting mods) which is considerably higher than what the single turbo on the vvti motor is capable of.

double post...

np mate, goodluck with the sale.

would be after $20k+ and your car as trade (Paid well over $50k + on roads 2.5 years ago). Just placed an ad on carpoint/carsales. Will link as soon as it is up. For the mean time, here are some snaps.

interested in swap for 06 VZ maloo ute and cash my way? red, 6 speed manual, 6L LS2, under 50,000kms, still under new car warranty. In Adelaide, rego is 6L (custom plates).

these are SOLD!

all emails and pm's replied. Still avaliable but ive got a lot of interest. First person financial gets em. Thanks guys.

Hey guys. Got a pair of R33 brembos for sale. Only just rebuilt the calipers with genuine brembo seal kits and repainted them red with white brembo logos. Come with 2 sets of pads (both barely used) Ferodo DS2500's and Bendix ultimates. Also come with brand new braided lines. Rotors are DBA 4000 series 324mm slotted. Rotors are brand new and are still in the original sealed plastic. $1500 for the lot sorry the pics didnt turn out that well. please email [email protected]

yep, drives well at first. Light throttle, mid throttle accel and full power all nice and smooth. The it slowly gets worse until it's running like a busted arse and wont idle. battery voltage around 13-14V no sensors highlighted in black. ive tried turning the O2 sensor off. Didnt help.

the thing is that it isnt doing it when the car is switched off. It will start and run great, then slowly over 30 mins of driving lose tune. Sometimes if you switch the car off after it has lost tune, it gets better again when you restart it (if its had time to cool down). Then over 30 mins or so it'll start to run like shit again and idle like a pig.

Hi, I have an apexi power fc. My car ran fine before fitting the pfc but i wanted to be able to tune so on it went. The tuner tuned everything on the dyno and i picked up the car. It ran perfectly when I picked it up but it's tune slowly decreased over time until the point where it would barely idle and was running really rough. It has been back to the tuner several times to be re-tuned but just does the same thing. Last time the tune started to go bad the hand controller went to the startup screen (instead of the 8 channel monitoring screen i had it set to) started running worse and worse. Then the hand controller screen went blank and altho the car would drive it wouldnt idle at all. I had to keep the revs up whenever I clutched it just to get it back to the tuner. He then loaded the maps back onto it with datalogit and the screen lit up again and everything worked fine but an hour later, losing tune again! My cousin also has a PFC tuned at the same workshop and he has none of the problems. Anybody had this before? Any help would be appreciated.

dammit! i cant find this duplicolour paint in Adelaide. That finish looks awesome.

Thought i'd throw up a few pics of the twin turbo setup im currently running. HKS designed the twin T3G's specifically for 1J's for good response with good top end also. Almost all other small turbos are .64 rear housing minimum which when in a twin setup is too large for a 2.5L engine. The T3G's are like an S15 GT28 but with 360 degree thrust bearings instead of ball bearings. They also have a .49 rear housing so they are far more responsive than twin GT series or big single equiped cars. The dyno sheet is for the current setup but with std ecu, tuning and fuel system. It's now making 275KW at the wheels with Power FC, fuel pump and injectors. I'll try to post the new sheet up next week when we get it back on the rollers. Will have new boost controller too, so it should hit 300KW. They are tubular high mount manifolds, hand-made. Intercooler piping, oil and water lines are all custom and were made by exhaust technology in adelaide. Dumps have split pipes for wastegates and are 3". You can see oxygen sensor has been moved to after the Y-piece which brings the system to single 3". Intercooler piping is twin 2" into single 3". I have a receipt for $4500 for the fitting of the system which included oil and water lines, the re-making of one dump pipe as it didnt fit correctly, exhaust intergration and intercooler piping (and BOV fitment). The turbos, manifolds and dumps were an additional $3000. I would include when selling the kit turbos oil and water lines intercooler piping exhaust manifolds dump pipes extended oxygen sensor intake pipes and pods -will also sell the full exhaust with the kit for an extra $600 mandrel bent stainless with hi flo cat and straight thru mufflers. The setup makes great power with really good low down and midrange. Awesome street setup. I've only done about 2000kms with it but I'm considering selling this setup to go for a big power, all out track setup. For the entire setup im looking for around $4500. I've posted up heaps of pics here Anybody interested please email me. [email protected]

About to buy a new electronic boost controller. Not sure which is the better option out of these two. My tuner has used the dual SBC before and says that it works great but the id-III isn't much more expensive and may be as good or better plus it has the screen. Anyone used these before?? I understand they both have adjustable gain and self learning mode. IS either controller better and why? Thanks