Noel

Hi I have read in many threads that the Std IC is pretty much useless & something about a *pressure drop* after 6000rpm which infact causes the turbo to have to actually work at alot higher psi than the reading showing on gauge (taken at the plenum) & that this is the main reason that you should upgrade to a FMIC before increasing boost as its will have better flow etc... Could someone please explain this to me as i do not really undserstand the whole concept? Also if i were to upgrade to a larger R34 GTT side mount would this eliminate the pressure drop or has it something to do with the piping etc & the fact that its a side mount? Any help appreciated as i like to know all details (why is it better?/how things work? etc) before i do any mods Cheers Noel

Who cares about max power figures? Im no expert but its almost certain that the stock ecu is useless especailly since it was designed for much higer octane Japanese Fuel & although exhaust, pods, cats, bit more boost etc might give you the best bang for buck in regards to max power it seems that the most beneficial mod to do to a stock RB25DET is to upgrade the ecu than prob the IC...I know id rather have a healthier, more efficent engine running the right air/fuel ratios etc than one which is less efficient but makes more max power My 2c

Legend!!! Ok well as long as they fit my R33 S2 its all good ;-) Thanks Jo

anyone?

14k i paid for my stock as a rock 97 S2 R33 Sedan with a full 1yr rego Pays to wait...Almost paid 19k the week before for an identical car

Ok got my self some Motul Turbolight 4100 & now i need filters so i can whack it all in I did the search & all i seemed to find were the Ryco/Valvoline Alternative part #'s Could someone please tell me the Genuine Nissan Part numbers i should ask my local Nissan dealer for to get the right Oil & Fuel Filters for my car (S2 R33 - RB25DET) & also is it true that they are the same parts that go on a SR20DE? Thanks guys/gals

Ok picked up a battery yesterday & whacked it in last night & seems to be fine now ;-) (fingers crossed) I got myself a battery from a wholesaler called Supercharge Batteries http://www.supercharge.com.au/ Battery i got was MF55B24R. Its 450CCA Has 3Yr warranty & is a zero maintenance battery...Has pencil terminals so no mods required & also is the same width as std battery, so all you need to do is take out battery tray, whack in new battery, clamp it down with original brackets & away you go! *Note this is for Underbonnet only as its not sealed*

is there anyway to check this & does this explain my symptoms??

Just want to be 100% sure it is the battery & not someting else With a previous car i thought my battery was dead, went out & bought a GSYuasa then 2 days later that was dead & found it all it was was a bad connection with stereo which was draining battery. & i still am not convinced it is the battery beacuse according to multimeter its not flat???

Nah its a Bosch with Japanese writing all over it... What i dont understand is if its the battery that is stuffed why is it reading 12.3-12.5v??...Can a battery still hold correct charge & work all accessories etc but be damaged in some way (maybe cells) for it not to be able to provide enough voltage to starter motor?

Ok here is the story... I just bought an R33 S2 Sedan. When i went to see & get car inspected it had been sitting a while so needed a jump start but when i picked up car it was fine & started first go everytime all week...On the weekend my cousin installed an alarm & we also put in a HU & Sub & Amp...Anyhow car would not start after install so we figured battery had been drained due to boot/doors open etc whilst installing so we gave it a jump & i drove home no worries... Next day go to start car & nothing, just click click click...I did a search on here & after reading many threads I took the battery out, gave it an over night charge, got multimeter out & battery read at approx 12.3-12.5v, so I whacked it in the car & started first go, sweet (i thought)...I checked voltage whilst running & it read 14.18 at idle & rose to about 14.26 under loan 2000-3000rpm so to me alternator is was working fine... Anyhow i drove to the gym, worked out for an hour or so then came out & it started first go but was a bit slow to kick over...Went home ate etc then went to go out about an hour later & click click click it would not turn over? Thinking maybe something was draining battery i checked again & it was still readin 12.3-12.5v? What the hell is wrong? I figured it cant be the starter motor cause it jumps fine, alternator seems to be working? & battery has charge? I am Stumped Please help!!! Thanks Noel

problem is size...the one in there now is only 200mm Long, 130mm Wide & 190mm High with small terminal posts & i cant see anything bigger fitting in there at all & most batteries with a decent cca are at least 172mm wide & 239mm long

haha thanks i knew it would be something obvious Cheers Noel

My setup is stock std mechanically & im running one amp & a 10" sub of a MP3 HU

How many CCA's is Std Battery & is terminal post std or small? Also what do you guys think of these http://www.gsyuasabatteries.com.au/asp/ind...ype=40&type=377 http://www.gsyuasabatteries.com.au/asp/ind...ype=40&type=379 Wanted this one but oo big to fit http://www.gsyuasabatteries.com.au/asp/ind...ype=40&type=365 Thanks

Hi I have the above & right on the end of the wiper control arm, next to the rear wiper/wash dial thingy there is another dial which i have no idea what its for? Kinda looks like this... -------- ------ ---- --- -

Hi Just bought the above & battery is shot (still has battery from Japan) & i need a replacement... I HAVE DONE A SEARCH but all the posts i found were relating to coupe's with the battery in the boot & mine is in bonnet as its a sedan What battery should i get that is better than std & will fit in original holder & attach to std terminals but wont cost an arm & a leg Thanks

It does look good behind...all nice & flat...ok might consider doing it that way then would the navara DIN be the same as a pulsar one? Thanks

Yea i have that guide but i wanted the surround to sit on outside of the dash, not behind like in the guide where he has pushed his HU back so that it all fits behind Re the pocket thanks but no thanks i would rather one that actually fits correctly rather than taping it etc Thanks anyhow

so you little plastic surround which goes around detachable face clipped on? Mine wont fit once i put dash back on??? Is yours (surround) in front or behind the dash? Thanks

I Guys & Gals Put in stereo (& alarm) on weekend in my S2 R33...Its all good except the DIN i used was not a nissan one but a universal & basically its a cheap piece of shite which does not fit (gaps etc) Anyhow did a search & apparently the genuine nissan pulsar one fits in perfectly & is availble for $30-$35 which sounds good to me but then i read that a toyota one is exactly the same & is only $10...Is this true & if so which model toyota DIN should i buy? Also i have an alpine 9831 MP3 HU & like others have encountered the surround does not fit...how have people gotten around this & is the surround supposed to sit behind the actual dash or in front? Cheers

Agree 110%

Agree if you dont know how to mount an LED you should not be installing an alarm hehe but If you read the post what i was asking is if it could be done without drilling a hole in the dash & where others had mounted theirs. What & wait til they smash your windows to scare them off? Anyhow...thanks for info guys/gals

Hi I have just about a R33 S2 & will be putting in an alarm on weekend...I have had a quick look & have no idea where to mount (without drilling a hole in actual dash) the Flashing Red LED light? In my old pulsar i just put it in one of the spare detachable little black panels (next to electric mirror switch) but dont have this option in the skyline Where have you guys mounting yours? (pics would be great) Thanks

sweet...thanks