Harey

Thats interesting that it is occuring with a blitz return flow intercooler as well! I thought it was just an issue with the particular intercooler I had. I have read about a guy with a GT3076 and a blitz return flow intercooler making 350rwkw with 25psi and E85. So I thought the blitz return flow intercooler was fine. I have just installed a nice (but expensive) ARC return flow intercooler, so I guess we will see conclusively whether it is a return flow issue as this is probably the best return flow intercooler out there. Its interesting but since fitting the new intercooler the car feels a lot more responsive and feels stronger everywhere. Havent held out a gear yet to see if boost still drops as I will wait to check it on a dyno first.

Well an aftermarket one you can just run it to vent to atmosphere, so no return piping at all to the new intake.

I think your missing the point here. Yes the stock BOV has proven itself for high power figures and I personally run one with no issues. The complexity is when you fit a metal intake pipe you need to plumb a recirculating pipe to the bov. This is not straight forward and the only comment here is that some people cant be bothered. Some people also just like aftermarket stuff if its shiny etc

Also what metal intake pipe did you use to connect the ARC airbox to the intake of your hks turbo? I am pretty sure the one you get with the hks kit wont fit. You would need to make a custom intake pipe in the perfect location to meet the afm on the right angle etc.

How is cutting a hole in your bonnet a "direct bolt-on option"?

+1 Beer Baron, from my little experience I have heard exactly the same. I know Trent from Status Tuning rates the Nismo intank fuel pump very highly. He said he has seen over 400rwkw numerous times on his dyno.

What do you mean by better option? A return flow intercooler is simpler as you can reuse some of the factory piping. It is also more friendlier with the cops as you dont have to cut any holes. For outright performance I would say a return flow intercooler is worse and most serious setups will run aftermarket intake manifolds so the intercooler piping doesnt have to cross the engine again. As you can see there are many factors.

Since when is a standard airbox on a gtt or gtst better then a pod filter when you are running 250-300rwkw?? I have seen back to back dynos with the airbox loosing 10rwkw from 280 down to 270rwkw. Not to mention the standard intake pipe is rubbish once you change the turbo, I could not make anything over 250rwkw it would just suck shut. To make up custom 3" metal piping from the standard airbox to the turbo intake is very time consuming and tricky as you need to have it meet exactly where the airbox connection is. I made up a custom metal 3" intake pipe with a pod, then all you need is some shielding. That is the best way for performance and ease of setup. From what I hear GTR's are a different story. Just re-read the initial post and it sounds like you have the standard turbo, if so then ignore my post as yes you should leave the standard airbox If you change to a larger turbo then read my post.

SOLD!

SOLD!

That $500 would have included the intercooler install as well yeah? Most places charge $3-400 just to install the intercooler with all the piping provided.

Sold pending payment

Its a front mount intercooler. The core itself measures 500x250x70. Turnflow means both inlet and outlet are on the same side of the intercooler. This means you can connect it up to the factory intercooler piping. This means you do not have to cut holes anywhere which cops do not like.

I am selling a Trust turnflow intercooler with no leaks in good condition. It has a few marks but is in good working order. Was fitted to a stagea previously and fitted to my R34 GTT. Previous owner made 310rwkw with it and I made 279rwkw. This intercooler does not come with any piping. $100 Jeff 0400648813 Located in west melbourne for pickup.

Hi, I am selling a 3" Hiflow Catco cat to suit an R34 GTT. This was purchased from justjap: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18070&cat=&page=1 Sell $80 Located in West Melbourne, can post at buyers expense. Cat in perfect condition. Jeff 0400648813

Not sure if I would take 1 example as gospel. Almost all other results are significantly later.

Looks awesome Lance! +1 for not wrapping it with exhaust heat wrap as well, that stuff sucks.

Any idea on when it hit full boost?

I think the last word you can use with the T67 turbo is dissapointing! We are talking about a turbo that has slightly less response than a 3076 and able to make more top end. Yes it is in a different category to the GT35, less top end but a lot less lag as well.

That's strange behaviour?? Pretty sure commodore torque converters dont do that. I thought the idea was that you dont want too much load when the torque converter is locked otherwise you will burn it out.

Yeah from the sound of it you could get the same power from a T67 with a lot better response ~4200rpm full boost. Power would also be more linear and easier to put to the ground.

The key word here is non-progressive. Yes, I would agree that having a lot of low down torque and then it falling away would not be a great result. I believe Rolls is saying great response but progressive torque. The ultimate in my my mind would be flat torque from 3,000rpm to 7500rpm and a peak of 280rwkw on 98. I have just changed this year from a big laggy turbo to nice super responsive turbo. I love it, I am able to quickly access torque through tight corners and feed the power in progressively when exiting the corner. The only negative is that over 100km/h driving has lost the pull feeling. For a fast street car it is ideal. But it would be great to have this progressive response and then keep pulling all the way to redline. Regarding the GT35 on the 4L ford engine what rpm does it kick out? I have had a 3.8L engine with a GT35 and it was very taily when the turbo would hit. Is it not just a matter of housing choice? With the 1.06 housing it would hit hard, where as I tried a 0.63 housing and it came in much earlier but was more progressive so traction was not a problem. But the 0.63 fell over massively up top. I think its just a matter of matching the turbo to the engine and getting 'progressive' power delivery.

its a good idea but I think the major problem is a turbo that is super responsive down low and still be able to have boost increased at top rpm. Most turbos that satisfy the response criteria mentioned above are normally maxxed out up top and no boost controller can increase boost if the turbo is maxxed out.

Very interesting results, I wonder if the 0.63 housing is limiting the GTX from doing any more up top??

How about a twin scroll T67 on an RB25!!!!!! I think I have a 3/4 chub That SR20 dyno sheet is unreal. From that example (and others) when choosing a twin scroll setup you should choose a slightly larger turbo then what you would choose if it wasnt twin scroll.