Harey

So just to confirm, the consensus here on ultimate front half exhaust setup for a GTR is: - Tomei Expreme Dump Pipes http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/tomei-dump-pipe-tomei-expreme-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-601.html - HKS Large Front Pipes: http://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-stainless-front-pipe-nissan-skyline-gt-r-50314

Yes, but the job of your actuator is to get the boost to remain steady as best it can. If it is working well it should sit on the same boost no matter what the gradient of the road or gear you are in (as long as it can get to the required boost level).

Not one post here has been from someone who has fitted exhaust cam gears to their RB20DET.

I cant find any posts here that arent specific to the RB25? Not sure where your reading. Apologies I did miss the RB20DET at the top, I just saw that all the responses were to do with the RB25. I have also heard tuners say, its only worth it on RB26's, not sure if they are including RB20s as well?

I think the injectors will come back to bite you later on as they are borderline size. I am guessing your hoping for the best part of 300rwkw on 98. This will most likely be just ok. But I think they will be running very high duty cycle at this power. Then if you ever want more or want to try E85 they will be too small. Looks like you plan on increasing the fuel pressure, this can have a side effect of making the fuel pump work a lot harder and as pressure increases, a fuel pumps flow decreases. As ash said, no mention of dump pipe or upgraded clutch. Hard one with the intercooler, could be ok, might be a restriction, impossible to say. Apart from that looks good.

I believe these are the ones your talking about: HKS P/N: 1418-RN005 http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16972&cat=&page=1 http://www.nengun.com/hks/extension-kit-gtr Yeah strange how noone lists the dimensions??

To all the people saying yes they are worth it, do you have 2 dyno sheets where the only difference is the exhaust cam gear with a tune after each? I have spoken to a few tuners (Trent being one of them) and they all say dont bother on the RB25. On the RB26 its a different story. Tuners are the only ones that would have seen many cars where the only mod they do is cam gears. Most other people would combine them with other mods and then say wow the cam gears worked well when in fact its not the case.

Yeah I also definitely make more than 2psi in first gear. I thought a boost controller could only make more boost than what the actuator is set to, not less. Either way you could try a turbotech boost tee as a test, they are excellent and only $30.

A lot easier to say when its not you in the situation.

They are ridiculous prices! Whats the catch?

Hard to say as who is the cheapest as this will change at different times. Points to note: - Other parts are required such as dump pipe, oil and water lines etc. Make sure you have a good grasp of whats required. - Make sure the price is for the internally gated option. - Do not buy a housing with the 6 bolt skyline flange, make sure you get a proper garrett exhaust housing and just simply buy a new dump pipe and bolt that up to a 3" front pipe. Few people have got them through this place and reckon they were the cheapest in a kit and were good to deal with: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/garrett-turbo-garrett-gt3076r-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-525hp-p-535.html GCG: http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=233&category_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 Thats for the 52T version, there is also a 56T.

Still yet to be proven. Either way it will be less responsive than a HKS 2835 Pro S but will make more peak power. 2835 Pro S is proven to make 280rwkw so thats why I thought it would meet the thread owners requirements.

Did it improve the response as well? Post up the dynos if you have them

I am assuming the engine was stuffed and so he was forced to rebuild. Whats the difference in price to a standard rebuild? 3k? I have seen people spend an extra 3k in worse ways for a street car. Now he has a solid engine that he can lean on later on.

Sounds great dude, 9.1-9.2 is awesome! Get a HKS 2835 Pro S for those goals in my opinion. Joeyjoey off this forum will most likely be selling a complete kit soon.

Nice pics! Any reason for the drop in compression ratio? I would have tried to increase it (~9.5) unless your planning a big boost setup.

Its all relative, if your used to the stock 140rwkw it IS great! Plus if its a street car the more responsive turbo will be better in most cases.

The main goal of the HKS GTRS is response, if you have a look through the dyno thread there arent many making any more than 250rwkw but they do provide great response. Another option is the HKS 2835 Pro S, slightly reduced response and capability for 280-290rwkw. IMO a better overall turbo for the RB25, but if response is your main goal go the GTRS.

It depends on which Hypergear turbo you choose. I have the standard nissan compressor cover on my hypergear turbo and it bolted straight back up to the standard intake pipe. Same as a GCG hiflow turbo. Although any of these turbos are not performing well with a standard intake and respond well to a larger metal intake pipe. But of course if you choose any aftermarket turbo they will not bolt straight up. Hypergear turbos can be everything from a simple hiflow to a completely new turbo altogether, so it depends on what your talking about.

That intake pipe above is simply a 90 degree bend from an exhaust shop with some fittings welded in to the pipe. If you want to retain the afm in the intake like standard you probably shouldnt have chose the 4" intake on the turbo. You will have to reduce the pipe down to 3" to bolt up to the afm anyway. This pipe will also be a lot harder to make, the 3" bolts up to the afm and pod easily but I cant see a lot of extra room for a 4"->3" reducer etc.

If you dont know the answer to this I would stop and either enjoy the standard setup or go pay a reputable workshop to satisfy your requirements.

Please stop suggesting this, this does not work over 250rwkw. For the standard turbo thats fine, but anything bigger than that I would strongly recommend a metal intake.

Only reason you would put the filter straight on the turbo would be if you moved the afm to the intake piping. I chose not to do that from Trents advice and my goal for the engine bay to look standard. You surely would not connect the afm too close to the turbo. This is the metal intake pipe I made up (excuse the poor bend on the bov return haha)

In what regard? Wearing out quickly? Not holding the power?

For $100 extra I would purchase the injectors that the tuner recommends. Tuner's are the ones that know how good and easy to tune particular injectors are.