Harey

I have a 3 inch cat back and I had to drop it to fit the rear sway bar on my R34 GTT. Hmmm not sure if the holes need to be threaded??

Dont quite get this idea?

Thanks guys, yeah I tried both hammering the socket onto the rounded nut and also using a chisel. Would prob be easier up on a hoist too, mine was just on car ramps. Bugger!

Yeah I think 450rwhp is a big ask from a GT3076 with 0.82 housing with only 8.36 compression on 98 fuel.

With those details I would say -5s! You have all the supporting mods, you will be building a forged engine and you dont mind a bit of lag.

First of all awesome car! I personally would be getting the best intercooler possible for this beast. Then look at all the dry ice stuff etc.

That timing thing does sound strange, as R31Nismoid said look into that first. I would drop the timing back to just before it starts to drop power and then start increasing the boost. Lots of people run 20psi on standard compression engines so with low compression you will need more boost.

Hey Guys, I fitted a whiteline rear sway bar to my R34 GTT with no hassles. However, when I got to removing the front standard one, I cant get two of the nuts off. The two centre ones. They have a very rounded lower part to the nut. When I fit a 14mm socket it fits perfectly over it but when I apply force it burrs the nut. My old man and I have tried lots of different things with normal house type tools. Does anyone have any tips or ideas before I get a workshop to take them off?

From my time on this forum, a well tuned RB25DET in good condition seems to handle 300-320rwkw no problems. I remember reading a post from Status Tuning that 350rwkw was fine. There was also one guy i remember with close to 400rwkw but he was just being silly while his new engine was being built. Lasted for a while but hardly a reliable setup. Obviously if something fails then at these high power figures its not going to be pretty. But if you can keep all the important stuff reliable then it seems to be good thing.

Thats a great idea. I am tipping you mean you CAN get traction now. The only thing left would be to swap the suspension out for some bilstein shocks and king springs or similar. Makes the car a pleasure to drive on imperfect road surfaces. Then also does very well around the twisties. I think its faster than my previous coilovers on twistys because your car isnt bouncing over every bump.

From my experience a 0.63 housing will be too small on a 3.0L. Go 0.82 or 1.06 housing IMO

I think thats only for big power setups, certainly not for a stock turbo!

No arguments there. But us skyline drivers are more sensible drivers arent we so dont need to worry about that...

I though ethanol burnt colder? I thought a hotter heat range spark plug was desired with E85?

Stock XR6T runs what 5.1 sec 0-100 time. Why cant a well launched skyline with 190rwkw match that?

You definitely need more traction then! Need better tyres. Find out what boost you are running now. With a full exhaust even standard boost is higher.

First of all can you launch hard now? If you cant launch now then more power is only going to make your launch worse. If you cant launch: Then start launching, if you cant get traction as R31Nismoid said get some better tyres and look at suspension stuff. If you can launch but need more power: Find out what boost you are running. I was running 8-9psi with a full exhaust and no boost controller. Make sure you get to 9-10psi. Then get a tune. That will get you 180-190rwkw.

Point is the majority of people in this thread dont have an ecu with the traction control capability you are speaking of. The people that do have the capability most likely know and use it.

Yup thought so, just wanted to give waxracing a chance to have a relevant helpful point. Oh well at least I tried. I switch off traction control as soon as I start the car. I was actually going to ask my tuner if he could default it to off. Surely the R35 GTR traction control would be good though!

Are you saying the standard R33 GTS-T/R34 GTT traction control does this? My experience of the standard traction control is that once it kicks in, 90% of power is lost and you barely move. I dont see how this ever would result in a quick take off. Are you saying this is adjustable too? Your not talking about the R35 GTR are you haha

Yup they are definitely fitted the right way. Thanks anyway.

hahaha interesting one, i will have a quick look tonight.

Your punctuation is clearly a level above... So you want to use traction control to limit the wheel spin?? Thats ridiculous, maybe just lighten up your right foot. If you said you wanted to use traction control to catch the car when it wheel spins unexpectedly, then it would be understandable. Your right, if you could drive as well as me it wouldnt be an issue

If you cant get your car home in the rain without traction control then I think you need to learn how to use the pedal to the right of the brake pedal... I find traction control in the standard form useless.

Exactly right! +1