Harey

Strange cause the R34 has the larger, better OP6 exhaust housing.

Doesnt creep that much only 0.5psi max. I thought all std turbos drop down to ~9psi at redline?

Thanks! good to hear

We sound very similar in that regard! I have also been on the search for an intake pipe to connect from the airbox to the standard turbo compressor inlet. The how to guide is supposed to be very effective. I was going to spray the metal pipe black as well for even more stealth. The only aftermarket one I have found is: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item255a132f3d When I ask him whether it will bolt up to the std airbox he keeps saying "yes it should", which is not the sort of rock solid answer I am after. The guys on here keep saying to get someone to make a custom one up.

please post 60' and mph for an accurate comparison.

so they were all 11:1 afr?

Great work mate, looks fantastic. Nice cheap way to stop your intake pipe sucking shut: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...0&p=4256351

What boost are you running on the hiflow? Have you tried dropping it down to a comparable amount of air to the stock turbo you were running before. Then you can prove that its the tune or something else.

The hiflow turbo will be using a completely different part of the tune. Without seeing which cells it is using and analysing that I am not sure what else can be done?

1400kg = 3086lb 1470kg = 3241lb So its pretty close. I dont think its worth arguing about 207 and 200rwkw dyno figures as we are all know the inconsistencies involved. My only point is the car had a genuine 200rwkw to run 105mph. And if the launches improved a lot there is a low-mid 13 on the cards.

Thanks mate. Yeah I didnt bother replying to the tyre thing cause I agreed with it and had also read it elsewhere. Cant wait to get the new turbo on to see if it axle tramps in 3rd bahahaha!! Although I think I may have to wait a while till the bank recovers from its recent rapings.

Ignore the ET. The single most important piece of evidence is the mph. Any halfwit of a driver can run a good mph. It is irrelevant of the launch, actually a slower launch will very slightly improve the mph. The mph equates directly to power to weight. The mph lines up to around the 207rwkw the dyno shows. Go to this site: http://www.warwickdragway.com/Calculators.html Punch in 3100lb for the weight of the car and 105mph and it calculates you have 280rwhp which is spot on with 207rwkw. See how it doesnt care what the ET or 60' time is. Then only if you have a good 60' launch will you net a good ET. If you use another calculator, you can punch in 280rwhp and 3100lb car and it will show you the best time you can theoretically run is 13.0.

Trent just posted that its basically the same as a factory tune? What if it just removes the speed restriction and the rich and retard settings allowing you to run higher boost?

If your making the right mph for your power level whats the problem with the tune? If it was pinging and doing bad things, surely it wouldnt run the correct mph? Regarding your quarter mile time, the 60' launch time is quite poor. The general rule is any improvement in the 60' time is doubled off the ET. So say if you lost 0.2 off your 60' time you would loose 0.4 seconds off your ET! A very big gain! Plus its about how you launch and how your suspension transfers the power so not something to be overly worried about. If you do want more power to run a higher mph: 1st stage I would recommend what I have, std airbox, return flow fmic so not cutting holes + a nistune ecu. Nistune was $800 for ecu all tuned up, and because its only touching the internals of the ecu there is nothing for the cops to find. Your only decision is whether to go the next step with some injectors and a Z32 so you can get the most out of the hiflow. Cops wont find a Z32 afm or larger injectors.

Whats with the attitude? I said thanks, I appreciate your input. I read your opinion as well as many others, I spent hours reading other threads. Your main advice was constantly to put in alloy subframe bushes which was not required. My issue was completely lower control arm bushes and you never mentioned them.

I am talking about the real world. Not sure who said the second quote, I dont remember saying that.

You mean low to mid speed (say below 110km/h) not low to mid rpm. Same as a standard turbo, it will make power to the limiter in 1st gear almost to the top of second. I agree on the congrats for the niche segment turbo.

So you agree the gear (and in effect the load) does make a difference to whether the turbo can spool up. What does a turbo use to spool up: airflow and heat. Therefore there is a different amount of airflow and heat in different gears. Therefore the amount of heat and airflow at 5500rpm in 4th gear could be closer to 6500rpm in 2nd gear. Therefore why it pulls hard to redline. Similarly it could be 6000rpm in 3rd gear. If you cant overtake with power maxing at 6000rpm in 3rd gear with 250rwkw you prob shouldnt be overtaking. Nowhere did I say this was the perfect turbo. I dont understand why the boost drops off so much either and it will be really interesting to see when Stao sorts that out. The standard turbo drops off over 5500rpm in 4th gear and it doesnt fall over after 5500rpm in 1st or 2nd gear does it.

Chris checked the lower control arm bushes and could not see anything wrong with them. It was only when I asked him to change them anyway as they were the last link of the chain he said they had a lot of movement. I spent hours and hours reading about it before I spent any money, that was why I didnt bother with different wheels/tyres as they are not the cause of the problem. As I said before most of the suspension work was to fix up the suspension not to fix axle tramp. Only the pineapples, some washers in the diff bushes lol and the lower and upper control arms were changed in the name of fixing axle tramp. I think I got to the cause fairly quickly. Yes it did cost a few dollars but suspension is the one area that I dont have much expertise in. I also dont have any equipment or even place to work on my car as I live in an apartment. I do all my own servicing and maintenance and agree that can save you a lot of money. My previous car i put together a custom turbo kit that had a stock engined VP V6 commonwhore running low 12s with an average 60' so I sure do know about doing work myself. Also, the axle tramp could have very easily broken and axle or a diff or something, it was quite violent and snuck up on you very quickly before you got a chance to get off the throttle. I could have very easily ended up spending lots of $$ and still having axle tramp. Yeah I have bought a 3076 hi flow turbo off Stao. The compressor is standard but the exhaust housing is 0.82 so trying to get it to look as standard as possible. There was no way I could fit a bigger turbo with the axle tramp, it would broken something straight away. All in all I am very happy

5 days of Sun in May?? we have had a few days of sun over here but I doubt 5 days, and still not warm enough to hit up the beach

You agree with cerbera and then you say "the powerband on an RB25 is realistically only about 1000rpm in first gear, 2000 in second, making it utterly useless at street legal speeds (I'm speaking from experience here)." If you agree with cerbera you should have the same amount of useable rpm in 1st and 2nd gears...

So turbos are not affected by load... Turbos love load, anyone will tell you that. Thats why they love to climb hills etc. There is more load in higher gears. Simple. You say I am wrong and then you say the amount of air is 'similar' in all gears. So you agree its not the same, so the only thing we are disagreeing with is how much by. Why then does a GT35 hardly make boost in 1st gear, make it earlier in second gear and even more useable rpm in 3rd and 4th?

Nistune FTW! Most places will have install it and have it all tuned for $800. How much has the SAFC2 cost you so far?

That is incorrect, it does matter what gear you are in. How much air a turbo provides varies with load ie. varies with gear ratio (as diff ratio is constant). Different gears will show different characteristics. A very simple example is how response varies depending what gear you are in. A rough estimate is a difference of 1500-2000rpm between 1st and 4th gears. So if this turbo makes full boost at 2500rpm in 4th gear, its making full boost at 4000-4500rpm in 1st gear. The amount of air an engine flows varies with load (ie gear). An engine running flat out in 4th gear will be flowing more air than an engine flat out in 1st gear. Therefore a turbo can work well with the amount of air flowing in 4th gear but barely be doing anything in 1st gear. The opposite is also true, a turbo can work well in 1st and 2nd gear but be restrictive in 4th gear. This is one of the greatest misconceptions about turbocharged vehicles. The key is to get the best compromise for what you want from the car. Trust me this turbo did not nose over after 5500rpm in 2nd gear

Thats fine, go out and buy a GT3076. This turbo is designed for street response. Yeah 18psi at 2500rpm in 4th gear but in say 1st gear your talking about ~4500rpm. If you are trying to use a turbo on the street legally then an extra 50-60hp at the top of 4th gear isnt an issue. It is great to have different turbo options for different people.