Harey

When you say you have a 2.5" exhaust I assume you mean a catback exhaust. Solution: Front half of exhaust: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Cat: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Either leave your 2.5" catback or replace it with a 3". Then get a nistune instead of a powerfc. Much cheaper, just as good or better and nothing to hide from the cops.

I bought the car with the KU36s and the coilovers on it november last year. It axle tramped from the very beginning, I didnt think to give it a big launch on the test drive . I tried all different tyre pressures and coilover settings to no avail. It axle tramped with every different test. The coilovers had some top joint that is metal on metal so made a terrible racket driving along. I didnt know what the issue was so dropped it in to Centreline and they said one of my rear coilovers was leaking and the top joints were making all the noise. They also mentioned quite a few bushes needed changing, so I changed the bushes they recommended (neither were subframe or diff bushes) and gradually got the bilsteins and king springs in there. So the bushes and suspension were not done to fix the axle tramp. After I had the rear suspension changed the axle tramp reduced slightly, however was still very much there. Centreline then fitted some pineapples in the all round position, this is the first thing I did specifically to fix the axle tramp. The axle tramp did not seem to reduce at all with the pineapples which shocked Chris at Centreline, I went down on sat and spent a few hours taking him for a drive and him trying things. We couldnt find anything that would reduce it, I am taking it in there tomorrow to have the pineapples changed to max sqaut to see if that helps. I think the only thing remaining is the diff bushes, although I have heard there is a lot of labour involved. Yes Chris and I agree that the wide sticky tyres wont be helping the axle tramp but we dont believe it is the cause. I think changing the tyre pressures test rules this out. If it only axle tramped with say low tyre pressures you could say there was a defect with the tyre, but I think if it happens with all tyre pressures then it reduces the chances it is the cause. Pretty much everything I have read (including RBceffy25's detailed post in this thread) suggests that different tyres and pressures can change when you break traction but are not the root cause of axle tramp. However, I would still love to try some stock wheels and tyres to see. I started looking around for some cheapies but they were either interstate or wouldnt fit.

Ah I just thought of something, it axle tramps in the wet in 1st and 2nd gear and I am pretty sure 190rwkw can overcome my tyres in the wet

Hmmm sounds good, I think this is what I will try next!

I thought it was going to be a dynosheet with the comparison...

For us to help choose the right exhaust you need to let us know your plans for the car. Will you stop at fmic and front mount? What is your budget? The CES Racing exhaust above is certainly very good but quite pricey and I think not always necessary on stock turbo. Tell us more about your plans for the car and we can help you out.

Thanks! I think your both of those posts are links to the same type of items: - Diff Bushes = Diff Mounting - Rear member bushes = Subframe bushes Please correct me if I am wrong. The only decision left is alloy vs polyurethane. Its 99% a street car but I am all about no axle tramp and a tight feeling rear end so I am thinking about taking the plunge to alloy. I think labour for the diff bushes is massive though so I would hate to make a mistake!

Are they alloy subframe bushes or diff bushes?

$400 for the rims posted to melbourne?

Hi All, I would like to buy some used R33/R34 rims. I am experiencing axle tramp and would like to rule my current aftermarket wheels out as the problem. Therefore I only need 2 but if you have 4 thats fine too. Tyres would be better but not essential. Happy to pickup from anywhere in melbourne. Jeff 0400648813

It used to axle tramp with my coilovers with the shocks set on all settings. Currently my king springs are quite soft and the bilsteins and definitely in full control of them. I wonder if my issue is slightly different to the one described by RBceffy25, because mine will also do it without a clutch drop just accelerating and getting wheelspin, so no real sudden initiation. We are going to try a different pinion angle on thursday with the pineapples in max squat position so hopefully that makes a difference. I just want to see something make a difference so I know where to spend more time on.

Anyone got 2 stock wheels I can borrow I think thats a good test too. Hopefully thats the case, then I HAVE to get a bigger turbo hehe

You cant go below the psi rating of the actuator. If its an R32 actuator rated to 10-12psi then any sort of solenoid can only increase the boost.

I just would have thought that if the pineapples were in the right direction that they would have helped a bit. If the pineapples reduced it but it was still there I would be leaning to your solution. Hmmm the lower control arm bushes havent been replaced, but they have definitely been inspected.

These are the wheels that were on the car from Japan, so dont have easy access to any stock wheels. My gearstick does shake all over the place when it does axle tramp, but Chris from Centreline thought it axle tramped first and then shook the gearstick. Yeah few people have said about getting more power but I cant see how it would improve, its quite severe now. Ok so it will spin 1st hard but surely I will be on the edge of traction in 2nd or 3rd gears and will have the same problem but much worse!

I spent a few hours at the suspension place on saturday and he checked that. Is it possible for them to look ok but be buggered? Would engine mounts vibrate the car with traction as well though?

Hi, I still have axle tramp on my R34 GTT, please help! Car Specs: R34 GTT with cooler, exhaust and tune 190rwkw Rear wheels are 18" with 275 wide Kumho KU36 tyres Conditions that cause axle tramp on my car: - acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear (tyres cold) - 2000-4000 rpm launch (tyres hot or cold) - wet road, acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear with any amount of throttle that will break traction - quick 1-2 change - smooth or bumpy road Conditions that do not cause axle tramp on my car: - anything with full traction does not axle tramp - big rpm launch in the dry does not axle tramp, just wheel spins - spinnng wheels on a wet road in 3rd and 4th gears Things I have tried with no change to the axle tramp: - replaced japanese coilovers with sydney kid spec bilstein shocks and king springs - changed a heap of bushes (not diff ones) - Tried tyre pressures from 28-40psi - installed pineappbles in the all round performance position (this actually caused the axle tramp to feel a bit more severe, I think it made no change to the axle tramp it just meant I could hear/feel it more ). Suspension place have suggested trying the pineapples in the squat position. Whats the point of a quick car that you cant use!!?? Driving me crazy and I have spent hours searching and reading threads on here.

There is lots of info on this forum. My summary is get a belmouth one, the split ones have caused boost creep issues and problems with the separate pipe fouling on things. Im not saying they all have this issue but there doesnt seem to be any advantage to getting a split one so why bother.

Yeah me too, but I am just doing to ditch the front pipe and sell it. I will be using a bigger turbo though, so 3" dump is a must.

Whats wrong with your GTT bov? When does it max out power wise?

Hi Guys, sorry to hijack the thread but are you using GTR bovs on RB25DET's just for noise or is there another purpose? Will the standard RB25DET one handle 300rwkw?

Thanks Serq.

I think the afrs are fine. 12.5 at redline is fine imo. One way you could have a chat with him without accusing him of a bad tune is just to say "hey just wondering if I wanted to improve my fuel system without going to a return system, what would be the first thing to do?" Its quite easy to put a fuel pressure guage just before the fuel rail. For a test I used longer fuel lines and poked it out of the bonnet so that I could see the fuel pressure guage around the wipers while I was driving That way I could see the pressure at WOT.

Ryan how important is drift performance vs top end to you? If drift is number 1 then I think 0.63 internally gated would be the solution. It will give the best response in second gear while drifting.

3076 with 0.63 externally gated on a 6 boost sounds like a winner to me. Yes in 4th and 5th gears the 0.63 housing will be restricting top end power, but going by what you are asking for it sounds perfect.