Harey

Interesting, it supports the theory that the exhaust is much more critical towards the front and less so at the rear.

Ah ok, I hadnt heard of doing it like that.

Thanks mate! All round it is I cant believe you can get traction in 1st gear with 285rwkw! Your car must be setup very well.

qwilkinson34, look at the link posted by Guilt-Toy in post #46. It specifies whiteline part number and explains them. Roughly $110. I am getting some pineapples fitted today by Centreline suspension. I am getting quite a bit of axle tramp, Chris wants to fit them at all round performance. What do you guys think? Has anyone tried them at both all round performance and maximum traction to give a comparison?

Flutter is caused by the lack of a BOV. Theres another 11ty billion page debate thread on whether its dangerous or not.

Please see this thread for which cars were selected etc: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Qu...urbo+comparison Its far from a perfect graph. It took me a lot of time, feel free to make your own thats better. These are all real dyno graphs. I just used it as a way to show the pre 3000rpm performance of the stock turbo.

Yup nothing gets close to the performance of a stock turbo under 3000rpm.

Thats strange that it worked fine with the PFC. It does sound like the wastegate cant flow enough to keep the boost down. Have you changed anything else since the move from PFC to SM4?

My vote is better dump and more boost!! The better dump will reduce some lag. I dont mind a bit of lag, just makes it more fun when it does hit

Quote from another site: "I'm thinking of going a T04Z with a 0.7 rear. That is a bigger turbo than a GT3582. The T04Z 0.7 rear is a similar size to a GT35R .82, but its bigger everywhere else (bigger turbine and compressor wheels etc). The bloke recommending this says it will both outpower and outspool a GT3540 1.06. He says he made a custom T04Z with a smaller housing than 0.7 for a 1J and it made 326rwkw at only 15psi." You need to make sure the exhaust housing can flow the amount of air for the horsepower you want to make. There are lots of negative comments on this forum about a GT35 with a 0.63 on an RB25 for this reason. The consensus is to go down a size in turbo and get a well matched housing (GT3076 with 0.82 rear). I am not saying this is the answer but just something to think about.

Answers above. You might think I dont like GTTs but I have one and love it. But I also know how it compares to my mates GTR. Quite different cars. From your questions regarding handling, streetability and minimum mods the GTR is your answer. I really like the R34 shape plus the R33 GTR is a good 8-12k more expensive. Hope that helps.

This is very true. All the advertising campaigns seem to have done is get people who drive slow to think they should take the law into their own hands and slow everyone down! eg doing 90 in the right hand lane is making the road safer cause noone is speeding grrr. If they let people pass there would be less people around them and safer for them and everyone on the road. Every now and again you find yourself on a road with people driving intelligently and it is an absolute pleasure. Most of the times I have experienced it have been near peak times when most drivers drive frequently and know where they are going.

Here Here!!! +11ty billion This would help everyone on the road.

Have a look in the RB26 dyno results thread.

Yup it could do that. Are you running the standard ecu? All you are doing is improving your exhaust flow, which has to be a good thing, it just means sometimes the ecu is not ready for it and needs to be adjusted.

+1 for HKS T04Z mmmmmmmmm

Very very nice! I have ordered a 3576 turbo from Hypergear which is just a bit smaller than yours. I hope mine looks similar to that! Great Job

Turn the boost up as is and see how you like it. Yes it wont improve response but maybe the shear amount of power will make you happy. A GT3582R will make the power you are making now with a lot better response. Do you plan on building an engine one day?

Your cat must be very restrictive to cause such a change, most cars would barely notice a difference. When you remove it, the exhaust is flowing a lot better meaning more boost, meaning more air for the engine causing it to run lean. Define running like shit? loss of power? If its extremely lean you will loose power.

Remember exhaust characteristics are different for an N/A and a turbo car. A dump pipe on a turbo car should theoretically be as big as possible, you want the best flow possible period. However, on an N/A car it is different, it is more complex, an exhaust restriction can help with down low power but reduce top end and vice versa. Whereas a nice large dump pipe on a turbo will give better response and top end, its a win win. Up to a point obviously where any increase in flow doesnt make any difference. In summary to your question, the decat pipe will be better performance wise on your turbo car.

HAHAHAHA thats funny as, but a bad image! Who cares what is an acceptable powerband, you want the best power band you can get that will satisfy your max power level. -5s sound like they are the choice.

For a given weight, you can work out what mph you require to run an 11. Then it is quite possible to estimate a power figure to run a particular mph over the 1/4. Then the final step is to get the launch right (60'), then you have your 11 second 1/4 time.

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Its much easier to talk in mph, then if the suspension and the driver sort everything out then a good ET will follow. Anyone can run a good mph for that particular car.

+1 a 3" dump pipe behind a T04Z is criminal. 3.5" at an absolute minimum. The other thing I would try is running it on the dyno without a cat, so just using the dump pipe.

Why is it not possible to hold boost to redline using an internally gated 0.82 housing?? See below thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...ge+can+actuator Conan7772 has the classic problem of dropping a few psi to redline, he resolves this by fitting a higher pressure large can actuator. He manages to hold 22psi flat as f*ck I think was how he put it . See dyno sheet (post 26 on page 2): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a257703-