adam 32

i need to get my injectors cleaned - whereabouts can i get this done and whats involved in the job? is it worth using a bottled injector cleaner? i know rev210 you had your injectors cleaned a while ago - can you give any advice? thanks adam

ive changed the plugs to find that cyl 1 & 6 are running a bit leaner than the others. this makes me think that maybe the injectors are not spraying as well as the others... im looking at getting a proper tune done soon so want to make sure everything maintenance-wise is fine beforei do that. in this situation what merit is there in using bottled injector cleaner? which ones are the best? or do i need to get them cleaned another way? whats involved in this? thanks adam

looks like a VDO guage - if so you dont want one!

golvebox installs (if done properly) can look very neat my car came over with a few guages and controllers in the glovebox but mounted on some awful carbon fibre which had been cut out with garden shears by the look of it... id recommend the DIN or ashtray setup, thats how alot of cars over here have done it. but if you want to hide your expensive electrical gear from thieves etc then try a glovebox job!

ahh bad luck paul maybe take is somewhere to be professionally done then raasclaat

yeh i dont know how to do it

that one for auction looks shitehouse because the wheel arches have so much space in them and the panels dont line-up properly compare that to gtn1k's car which has a much nicer finish on the panel work and wheels that really fill the guards

hey guys i was wondering if anyone has a timing light they could use on my car to check what timing it is currently running? ive heard its a pretty easy job and if anyone is willing to help me out id be much appreciated.

i dont think you raise it too much, just enough to allow air flow from the front to the rear of the engine bay

option 1

gain can be calibrated on the road - is probably the better way to do it as dyno loading cannot always accurately represent driving conditions. workshops shouldnt charge more than an hours labout - $50-$60. just go wherever is closest with pinging etc everyone knows what setup allows what boost you can run unless youre at the other end of the scale with big turbo and fuel system.

i still think despite the age of your car, if the actuator line is in good condition and is getting an accurate pressure reading then boost pressure will always be constant zanda no i wouldnt stress. youve always got the boost cut at around 12psi (i think) which would prevent and mecanical damage

do you not want to do it yourself? its fairly easy

take it out it should only be a 2-bolt flange and will take 5minutes to do

not neccessarily because the ticking/cracking is the metal contracting and doesnt accurately indicate oil temps which is what youre concerned with when cooling the turbo. id say 1min for normal driving and 3 min for spirited driving

well theyre both forms of forced induction. one aimed at torque and one at max power. given the characteristics of the engine id suggest supercharging it. but its getting blood out of a stone really - its never going to be a super-quick car on a budget. it would be more financially viable to trade it in and start a performance car project with a more suited car

if its lifters you probably want to go for a thicker oil so mobil 1 may not be the best one to go for. try a 10W40 or 15W50 ticking on the turbo side could be an exhaust manifold leak. it will crack when cooling down as nismoman said as its the metal contracting

yeh i was gunah say that was the main reason i didnt get a GTi-R because of gearbox failure and the incredible price, and rarity of second hand items. glad to hear its an easy fix though

by lifting the rear of the bonnet you would be cooling the rear cylinders more by allowing external airflow. how effective is it to reduce engine temps from the exterior of an engine (venting the bonnet or raising it) compared to cooling the internals (coolant/fuel) ?

sounds like the ignition module. silver box which amplifies the electrical signal to the coil packs. i had a similar problem a while ago where it would develop a misfire once warm. see if you can borrow one of these modules to test the system.

yes it does. try driving a skyline on 5 cylinders - sounds like the engine is about to fall out until u really rev it (not recommended) have a quick look over the ignition system coil packs and spark plugs and make sure theres no loose connections. if you dont know alot of these cars then take it to a mechanic and explain what happened and say u think it might be misfiring on 1-2 cylinders

black smoke = carbon from unburnt fuel. if you have a std ECU this is probably the problem. white smoke = turbo seals are gone or going as oil is leaking through turbo somehow blue/white smoke = excess blow by from engine. possibly worn piston rings causing oil to escape through exhaust manifold then out exhaust. best way to tell is, are you losing oil? if not then its probably carbon, if you are then investigate further. or get someone to drive behind u and tell u what colour the smoke is when u nail it

see other thread sound problems are too hard to diagnose over the net especially with descriptions like boing ive never heard a car make that noise

post this is the western australia section and somone will probably be able to have a look for u in person - its hard to diagnose sound problems over the net cos u really have to hear it first

compression would be an issue as well though. those V6 engines were built for family commuting and therefore low down torque and not all-out power. if you turbo-ed it you could probably only run 5-6psi safely personally i wouldnt bother with a holden 6. get a nissan 6 or a v8