Scratch

Ah! good point - didnt think about that. Looks like i'll be having a busy weekend i'll give it a crack and see how i go. Thanks to all for the tips, much appreciated!

cheers for the reply shetlander, i cleaned out the AFM this morning with some contact cleaner - no protective mesh on the front and back of the AFM though, was your stag's AFM like this? parked the car and the idle was up around 1400RPM while in park. turned the engine off and back on again and it was normal (~650rpm)and didnt repeat. however drove ok into work this morning no drop outs in acceleration, i monitored the voltages with my greddy infometer: 1.20volts (+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond off 1.31v(+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond on peak voltage: 3.02v ranged between 1.4-2.8v during driving. Does anyone know if these voltages are within operational spec? Also the infometer showed a diagnostic code of "1", but that doesnt relate to any codes that i know of. This could be a lost leader, as I dont know if the greddy infometer v1 can get the DTC fault codes from the stagea ECU. its currently set to Nissan-non obd, wont connect otherwise. thanks

Hey all, I noticed today morning when i parked the car, my idle was a bit high - this happened about once or two before but nothing since. On my drive home today from work, everything was fine and then my stagea started to lose acceleration pretty consistently. It happened at no particular RPM range, either on or off boost. She'll be going nicely and then it feels like i just took my foot off the accelerator, but i'm still pressing it! no squealing belts, choking or misfiring. I'm wondering if AFM could be causing this? but i had it cleaned during my last service at xspeed and haven't really had this issue. I have a greddy infometer plugged into the OBD port, i noticed the following the AF/C reading is showing 104% - 118% and when the drop happens it goes down to 97%. (a bit high but does anyone know if the greddy infometer 1's displayed this correctly?). I can also see voltages, but i dont know whats normal voltage for a AFM. Don't think it could be the battery, as it didn't completely shutoff the engine. its an odd one! now i have to figure this out so i can drive to work tommorow. does anyone have any ideas regarding the above? thanks

Back on for sale, buyer dissapeared.

ECU on hold.

SOLD.

Item:R32 GTR ECU Age:93' Condition:Good Price:$100 To Fit:R32 GTR Location:Perth Contact: PM Comments: came out of a standard GTR running stock turbo's, maf's and injectors. I dont know if its been chipped or not, but the chip matches the serial number on the outside of the case. contact me if you want high res photos. Item:Crank Angle Sensor (RB26) Age:93' Condition:Good Price:$120 To Fit:RB26 or RB25's (i'm told) Location:Perth Contact: PM Comments: buyer pays postage, pm if you want photos.. looks just like any other cas.

price drop: $80 ONO

Item: 4 x1 gb Kingston pc 5300 DDR2 Ram (667mhz) (4 gig total) Age: Near new, only 3 months old Condition: This ram set is in really good condition (brand new) and has not been overclocked. Its been purely used as a get by while I saved for l33t spec ram, which I recently acquired. Price: $100 ONO Location: Perth, W.A Contact: PM Comments: I dont want to seperate the kit, I want to sell it as a lot. If there is any questions, please feel free to drop me a pm. Willing to ship, buyer pays postage and all that.

Did they (the workshop) finally work it out duncan? or is it still being re-wired?

its the same as cars really you get different options and opinions eg: some people think split dump pipes are the ducks nuts and others say bellmouth ftw. what you wanted originally is alright except: 1)get a dual core processor not quad. 2)get 3 gigs of non ECC ram. 3)Get a case with atleast 2 x120mm fans in it. stuff you listed shouldnt cost you more than $1500

Yep p35 to match your 8400.. if you can afford it - push your ram to 1066, you will see a benefit in doing that. look into the antec 900 case, check to make sure the 8800gt fits properly, the 8800gts was a tight fit, but it did fit. 500watt psu is minimum for one HD and optical with what you currently have + maybe 2 case fans. There isnt much difference cost wise between a 500+ psu and 600+ psu. Get the 600 and run better cooling.

note: all of this is stated based on your intention for SLI: Its good that you're looking into good airflow. the Gfx cards these days throw a lot of heat into the case, even when they have 2 slot coolers, 2 gfx cards will be killer. find the biggest case you can find you need lots of space for airflow. the soprano DX wont cut it. look at the thermaltake armour (not the jr version). 500W is not enough for SLI, you need go a lot higher. 750+ watt as a minium. you should also get low latency ram - if everything is up to par you get a 50% gfx improvement. Sub par= that figure dramatically drops. you need to invest in better cooling as well using noctua or scythe fans.. SLI isnt cheap I've got the hx520 - i would have paid 40 bucks more and got the 620 instead but there was no stock. if you're running non sli - 1 gfx, 3 case fans, 1 hd and 1 optical drive - 500watt as a minimum is fine. the 8800GT are really popular cards.. looking back at history - these cards tend to run out of stock because of supply < demand. Nvidia is releasing a new gen of geforce series. they would be trying to push that instead of replenish stocks of the older card. This will affect your SLI propositions.. the new cards will be expensive and by the time you can afford them and updating system(mobo - ram ddr2 instead of ddr3, better cpu, better PSU). So if you're going sli do it on first base, or within the next 2 months. yep if the e4000 is what you want.. you'll be fine with the p5ne-sli. Again, I wouldnt recommend the e4000 series because of their price point but i'm assuming your considering it because the motherboard which support 45nms and do SLI are still crazy expensive. honestly - if SLI is what you want/consider getting... hold off buying a PC for now. Technology is shifting and you're not going to get good value (good value but not that much cheaper)

I'd rethink your CPU and get a faster one, the 2.4 ghz e4600 will only slow down your video card. The new 45nm intel CPU's are out and some of them are cheaper and offer higher FSB support (1333 vs 800) than the older ones (use less power so they run cooler). An example: E6850 core duo (3ghz 2x2mb cache) = $329 E8400 core duo 45nm (3ghz 2x3mb cache) = $279 <- i would looking at this cpu (Prices ref: www.ple.com.au) The p5ne-sli is a very good sli board, but uses an Nvidia 650i chipset (i think, dont have time to google) which doesnt support 45nm CPUs. Basically If you're planning on getting another video card now or in the next month or two and want to get the E4000 series intel CPUs, its worthy to consider this board. if you're in this scenario however: - you're not planning on SLI - want the newer 45nm cpus - dont want to tinker around and overclocking your pc that much get an intel chipset. The nvidia chipsets are catered for the enthusiasts, good tweakability but also prone to weird driver problems/constant updates and then problems from those updates. Anyone who's had these chipsets and know what they are doing, have had a beta/tweaked driver at some point to get their system stable. The novice user would basically start the whole "awwww XP/Vista is crapz0r" when the machines gets unstable. the p35 Intel chipsets support 45nm cpus and higher but usually only with a BIOS update - check with the vendor and make sure it will support 45nm out of the box or get them to update the bios for you. look into the Asus P5K .. very good value for money. The board design is a bit funny... the IDE connector is located in a ridiculous spot (not and issue if you're using a SATA dvd drive). long story short its a straight forward basic midrange motherboard with ok overclocking features if you wanted to experiement or couldnt be bothered. The x38 chipset was designed for the 45nm generation, but its still a bit too expensive for my liking. Motherboards are pretty clean cut - you pay for features. if you want more sata ports or an extra gigabit ethernet port or a built in wireless AP.. they cost more. If you dont want those features go for the basic board, and spend the dosh elsewhere. The gigabyte motherboard mentioned above indeed has very good reviews, but I cant comment on it as i've never used it myself - i'm using a P5K on the otherhand. besides the CPU and motherboard: ---------------------------------------- get faster ram try to get 1066 ram if possible if you're getting the 45nm cpu or 800mhz minium if youre going with the E4000 series. Dont get the fancy gamer spec ones with stickers and heat spreaders, the standard kingston will do. ideally if you're using 32bit OS only (vista/xp) get 3 gigs of ram (2x 1 gig sticks and 2x 512 sticks - they all have to be the same speed (800, 1066, etc. Match the sticks to the ram slot color). if thats too much mucking around, just get 2 gigs or 4 if you dont mind losing 512mb. Get a 500+ powersupply as well - look at the corsair range. very good value for money. what case are you using?

Any updates on this? really interested to know what happened

You can enable Ultra High settings in Crysis in DX9 on XP through an entry in the config file. Google it. They are cheaper too, but they were not available when I bought my card... which is why I said you can get better and cheaper now, heck the q6600 has dropped by 10 bucks too. The point is - no matter what you buy it gets outdated, fast. Buy whatever suits your needs and make peace with it.

Post a list of the other components that you're going to use to make this machine, I can give you a better answer that way.

here's the dyno chart its not a smooth, curve i'm wondering if thats normal for a stock car.

Its been a while due to work commitments, but I finally managed to get my car booked in for a dyno run. AF/R's were pretty much around 14 region but a little rich during WOT which my tuner tells me is typical of a nissan ECU, power-run showed 209.9 max hp. I'll scan the dyno chart and post it on here. I also picked up a Greddy intelligent infometer to monitor sensor readings from the OBD and has playback features as well. Looks like there is nothing wrong with my o2 sensor or maf although my tuner says the curve shows the maf is near its measurement limit? For now it appears that this is normal consumption for the car, i'm blaming the autogearbox shift logic as the root of my problems. It goes into tall gears at the worse of times like climbing hills. Not suprising though when you consider the car designed for snow. I've put it on PWR mode now as it drags the time between gear changes and i'll try this and staying off boost for the next few tanks of fuel and see if it helps. If someone more knowledgeable thinks i wont be seeing any benefit from doing this, please let me know.

if its a manual there should be more options to try with a little bit of rewiring.. if it has to be a stag ecu, i'd be checking out the local japanese wreckers.

tyre pressures being set properly helps..

+1

I wouldnt mind giving it a go myself, but I've never wired an amp before and dont know whats involved etc.. i'm sure i'll be able to do it after someone has shown me how once. The car has a japanese pioneer carrozeria GPS/TV unit which I was going to ditch, but i managed to wire my ipod to it and got both audio and video running sweet so its a keeper... took two days and i lost some hair, but worth it. Where do you live mitchy? and what beer do you like?

60MM FTW.. less time spent squinting trying to read the gauge = more time spent looking at the road. but thats a personal thing, hold the 52MM away from you at arms length.. if you cant read it properly at a glance.. dont get it.