Scratch

By not lining up properly when OFF i'm refering to the reading not being accurate when the car is turned off. An example is when you turn off the car and the boost gauge needle is supposed to return to 0 (mechanical gauge, electric gauges might not do this). Sometimes it will be below 0 or above, etc... in worst cases (like a splitfire mechanical gauge i had) the meter was pretty much 2-3points below 0. I'm also not refering specifically to autogauge, i'm talking about mechanical gauges in general here. Yes, I have seen the autogauge shown above first hand and saw a few of the electric gauges getting installed. The good thing about it is that the sensor comes with the gauge and you dont have to buy any controller boxes, its really good value. But again, some of them were not very accurate (not very bad though, i'm just picky).. its a 90 dollar gauge after all. How are you planning on using the gauges to check the power FC ?

they (autogauge) are basically a a clone of the "saber" gauges (made by powerdigger, the people who do hybrid intercoolers... i think). Quality wise, well you get what you pay for. look at the gauges properly before buying them.. i noticed a few didnt line up properly when they were off. If you have a serious performance car tuned to the edge.. then spend the dollars and get branded meters. Electric gauge's: 1) quick and accurate readings 2) lasts longer 3) some units allow daisy chaining to save a cabin wiring mess 4) but they are really expensive Mechanical gauge's: 1) Cheaper 2) the meters become less accurate over time, sometimes knocking the meter about during installation is enough to throw it out. (branded meters last longer but i've seen a lot of branded meters not lining up properly) 3) someone steals your oil gauge and your car will be in a total mess. just my 2c

sounds like a plan mitchy.. what did you do to kylie's stagea?

looks like a honda oddysey or a tarago... bad news allround.

Headunit/Speakers/Sub.. sub is already in a BOX.. got a 2 channel amp for the sub.

Hi all, Can any fellow Perth based Stagea owners recommend a place to get audio install work done? I'm looking for people that acctually have worked on stageas before, not the ones who are willing to "give it a go" as they usually break something in the process Cheers!

had a 100K service done on mine, and i had a new waterpump, all belts, filters, oils, new o2 sensor (i supplied myself), new bearings as well just to be on the safe side.. cost about 1600 dollars including labour. so NOT cheap at all, but i only went down that option because i just got the car and needed a professional to look over it, otherwise BBQ party FTW.

had to ask, had a line to get both the GTT bonnet and bumper for 500bux.

I'm getting interested in starting a conversion myself, just wonderin if anyone knows if the R34 GTT front bar and bonnet would work with the MASA front guards?

Unit 6/7 King Edward Rd (Behind Coventry's), Osbourne park, 6017 Ph: 92444190. Gotta love PDA's info at my fingertips.

I was just thinking that.. i reckon we should put them in the workshop thread.

Booked the car into Allan's yestarday, they were closed till the 14th of this month. I cant rave enough about how good these guys are, they took one look at the car on the hoist and went "this has the same running gear as the r33 GTR". The total cost of replacing both the inner and outer RHF boots was 160 supplied and fitted (a far cry less than the rest of the quotes), for once my wallet didnt get raped for owning an import. Wish there was more workshops like this in perth.

the KC-5442 was updated from its earlier revision which only supported distributors. I "think" only the old revision was published in the Performance Electronics For Performance Cars book, i'll double check tonight when i get home. If the book contains info about the kit, i'll post details about it and hopefully answer the questions above. note: Older hand controllers do not support the new KC-5442 kits, some minor component level modifications is required and the details come with the new handcontroller kit. I got those details from the handcontroller kit I purchased this weekend along with the DFA (if anyone wants them, let me know and i'll scan/post the instructions). (update 11.10PM: upon checking, the ignition control kit wasnt covered in the book. The jaycar store didnt seems to have answers as well.)

Yes i've been reading a bit about it on the forums.. weighing in the cost vs benefits, I'm better off getting a EMU as it pretty much costs the same as a SAFC+SITC, plus i'll get more tuneability out of it. Another jaycar product caught my eye, the Programmable High Energy Ignition System (KC5442).. description: The system can be used simply to intercept and modify the factory ignition timing or turned into a stand alone ignition system with remapped timing, electronic coil control and anti-knock sensing. The unit will trigger from a range of sources including points, Hall effect sensors, optical sensors, or the 5 volt signal from the car's ECU. Timing can be mapped against engine load and RPM and adjusted in step as small as 0.5° the knock sensing kit is optional. I searched SAU but cant find much info about people trying this out... it "sounds" like a SITC-ish device that works with the handcontroller that you use to tune the DFA. If anyone has any experience with it.. please share.

Atleast we know you will survive a crash in this car. all the well placed cumple zones and the windscreen didnt crack/smash (from what i can see) - bonnet went up and back at the angle of the windscreen... good design. sadly there will be plenty more r35 crash pics in the future, as i dare say the r35 will be more common than any other GTR simply because its being sold to more places around the world and at competitive prices too i'd bet.

Affirmative, deciding between the Jaycar DFA and SAFC. The DFA supports multiple load points, safc only does two, plus the DFA is cheaper and I'm an electronics nut so I'd enjoy making the DFA. The thing thats holding me off is finding a tuner who can work out how to tune the DFA.

reset my ECU this morning through the - "disconnected both battery terminals, hold down brake for a few seconds (15 ish second i did), reconnect" method. Will monitor how the last 3/4 tank holds and fill her up again full (with fuel prices this week.. OUCH). I know filling it half tank will help bring the consumption down (less weight) but i want to eliminate any fuel gauge play. As with any old car, the gauge would never be 100% accurate and all my testing so far has been done with full tanks. I'll get my hands on the consult cable and post the results up here. thanks for the help so far lads.

Thanks champ, that narrows the field down. Personally though, i was hoping it was the pipe.. atleast it would be an obvious fix. Looks like i've got to do some troubleshooting.

Negative on that, the assumption was its a brand new sensor hence it should be good as gold. I'm on PLMS now looking at buying a consult connector + software. We didnt put it on the dyno which is my next step, but i wanted to see if there was a known issue with the split dump and its o2 sensor port before i paid for dyno time. Would have much rather spent the cash on fixing the o2 port or a new pipe. No i havent reset the ECU myself and dont believe my mechanic did either. The reason i didnt do it myself was because i read a post on the fuel miser thread (by sydneykid i believe, dont quote me) mentioning that a ECU reset isnt required with a new o2 sensor and wouldnt do a lot of good. I'll do that tonight and note the differences. Thats what i'm planning on doing actually, i'm going to get quotes on this hopefully this saturday hopefully its cheap. Thanks mate, that would be awesome if you could post the results. I didnt know boost pressure rises when your exhaust is better flowed.. i honestly thought it spools up quicker but the boost pressure stays the same (i.e factory solenoid settings).. is this not the case? (sorry if this a n00bish question) Injector leaks/cleaning is something i havent checked/done.. i'll look into that and whack in a bottle of cleaner for good measure. At this point i'm looking the jaycar interceptor kits purely to correct this fuel issue and i'm not after upping performance.. One thing just occured to me, my mechanic mentioned that an SAFC will not helpwith fuel economy (something about the o2 sensor countering the effects) is this true? To my understanding the jaycar DFA kit does essential what an SAFC does (intercepts the MAF sensor readings), and numerous users report fuel savings with the DFA... does this mean the SAFC would work? if it comes to a point where i need to get ignition timing control as well, then its pretty much a a greddy EMU..

Hi all, Just wondering is anyone else in here has a stagea with a JJR split dump pipe and whether they are having any problems with fuel consumption, possibly related to their o2 sensor? Apologies as a lot of info is going to follow this, but I'm hoping more info will help the stagea pro's give me more educated guesses at what might be wrong. Problem: I've been told by my mechanic that the 02 sensor port on the jjr split dump does not place the o2 sensor deep enough into the pipe to get a proper sample of exiting gasses. The result to this is the o2 sensor sending false readings and potentially causing my fuel consumption to go wacko. They recommend replacing the split dump with a new custom one ($$$) or ordering a japanese one. Really want to check with everyone before spending the dosh on the split dump. Background: I've got a 97 rs4 stagea (s1, auto) with a JJR split dump pipe, K&N panel filter in the standard airbox, a semi performance aftermarket exhaust system (cat back) with no other mods beyond that. The story so far: Fuel consumption was horrible when I first got the car, barely 280K's to a full tank (my driving style test case is stated below). I recently sent the car for a 100K service at reputable workshop here in perth, this covered a full fluid flush and change, mobile 1 oil, new platinum plugs (gapped at 6.5mm i was told), oil and fuel filters, etc. I've also purchased a genuine nissan o2 sensor for the stagea and got it changed during the service. I'm currently at 215K's and i'm pretty much at 3/4 tank. Mechanic says its very likely because the o2 sensor isnt deep enough into the split dump. Test cases (might or might not help, but included anyway): ------------------------------------------------------------------- Fuel: BP98 only Route: The car is only driven from home-work-home using the same route everyday at the same time (+/- 5 mins) to encounter virtually the same traffic conditions. The entire route is city driving (<>60KMH) and I always try to keep +/- 3kmh at the speed limit). Driving style: Absolute NANA, staying OFF boost back off when i hear the turbo spooling up, zero spirited driving and getting overtaken by barina's (hurts me plenty, but i need to see how far she will go with the most economical driving I can manage. I also leave the OD OFF for city driving (<60 kmh) and ON for freeway driving (but for my test it was purely city driving so the OD was always OFF) I coast to a stop, slow down by getting off the throttle earlier (i.e fuel saving driving techniques) and dont try to be the 1st off the lights. Anyone encountered similiar issues or any ideas on what could be causing my fuel consumption crisis? I'm really just aiming for 400K per tank city driving which isnt unreasonable i believe. Cheers!

cheers mate, i'll give em a shout and see what happens.

Hi all, I'm after advice from perth stagea or skyline owners who have had their cv boots replaced/joints overhauled, specifically recommendations on where to get it done. I need to get a front outer CV boot replaced on my stagea, and my mechanics can do it but I'm being charged about 3 1/2 hours of labour + parts for it. I searched the forums and found most people (stagea owners included) mentioning its about 88 - 120 dollars (supplied + fitted) for a boot replacement through a CV joint specialist. I have taken it to 2 CV joint specialists in perth so far but with zero luck. One mob said they have to cut the cv joint just to replace the outer boot along with a new CV joint (!). Another place looks at it says no worries, books it in and then goes sorry we dont know what to do with this one. Called a few other places (so I dont waste my time) and they have no idea what a stagea or skyline is. Worst case scenario I suppose I can try DIY but the lack of knowledge, tools and a copy of the FSM (in english) makes the mechanic option more cost effective. Just thought I'd check before I end up spending too much money. Cheers!

A Ford-freak-rice-hating dude at work calls the nissan gtr a "Nissin gt whateva". American's call it a "knee-san gtarr". The Japanese call it "nissaaan gee-tyah". To me, they're all just different ways of saying "one helluva car".

just a thought after reading the posts stating that a tune didnt solve the fuel economy problem. Most tuners usually tune for high end HP so they can give you a pretty dyno chart saying look at that HP gain! I've read that it is possible to tune your car to be fuel economy focused but you run into issues when your decide to drag someone and trash the car. Maybe the solution could be piggy back ECU's that have dual tunings (street and race) like a gready emanage, where you can switch it from save-fuel-hug-a-tree mode to burn-baby-burn-mode when you want to push it. This is just focusing on the tune part, and assuming everything else is running well (coil packs, plugs, etc).

i will post pics soon, once my camera gets back!