Scratch

Hi, looking for Rear Mudflaps/ pod things for an r32 GTR. I'm really not sure if its a rear pod but I've seen them around. After market ones are welcomed also. Does anyone have this for sale. ? Cheers,

Hi, Looking for R32 GTR Stock Rims, Rubbers optional. PM or reply with asking prices and details. Pics are always appreciated. Cheers, Scratch

managed to source. Thanks NIB for the details and the rest for response.

Got a reply from nick, no joy he has already sold his. I'm still looking around for one. Does anyone know if the CAS from a rb25 will fit a 26?

Cheers for that mate, pm'ed blitz.

Hi, Another part to get on my neverending journey to get my r32 GTR up and running sweet. I need to get a crank angle sensor (the roundish metal part that hangs in front of your timing belt cover), to suit a rb26dett. Please reply or PM with asking prices. I've found another post mentioning the rb25's CAS works on the 26, is this true? Cheers, Scratch

Managed to source, thanks to everyone who pm'ed/replied. Mods please close this topic. Cheers, Scratch

Hi, Its a longshot, but I'm after a R32 GTR rear spoiler , pm or reply with asking price and details. Cheers!

Is that Garry Millane Motor Trimmers on kensington st in east perth?

Hi guys, I want to get my r32 GTR's interior retrimmed (front and reat seats, the little bits on the door panels and rear panels). I want a high quality cloth interior... I'm not going to bother saying "cheapest price" yadda yadda" but what I'm after is REASONABLE prices and EXCELLENT workmanship which is a lot harder to find.. Does anyone know where if I can find such a place in perth? also roughly what am I looking at for cost... Cheers!

yeah i have the workshop manual, and figured it might be a bit much to attempt on my own. A lot of good feedback on top racing it seems... might call them up for a quote.

Found the problem, after ordering o2 sensors (x2 for gtr's). Got the car on to a four wheel dyno and found out my ECU was chipped (suprise, suprise) as datascan wouldnt connect to it. Started a dyno run and the car was flooding the engine with so much fuel it was CRAZY. Eventually the tuner diagnosed that the knock sensor was cause, turned the crank angle sensor all the way and the engine didnt ping at all... meaning it was running on limp mode (apparently when the ECU cant detect the knock sensor it automatically goes into damage control mode and disregards all timing, plus floods the engine with fuel). Have a Power FC on the way, hopefully i get the GTR back on its feet. Thanks to everyone that helped with this topic! Go SAU!

Many thanks to all who responded, i found it. two of them to be exact, one fo each turbo. the sensor plugs were blocking my view!

Damn, a dirty connector did all of that?! shows what can go wrong with little things. thanks brad, i'll check that as well. Another update: Took the car down to hyperdrive to get ken to have a squiggle. They were pretty busy down there but being the good bloke he is, he still took the time to check out the car quickly. The car was misfiring all the way to hell, almost thought I lost a turbo with the way it was poffing,popping and spluttering. during the test drive ken said the car was way underpowered and its definately running rich as fk, and feels like there is a block somewhere. I have to book it in for further investigation, see what that turns up. Took the car back to the garage and pulled out both afm's and blasted them with contact cleaner with a vengence, suspect it could be screwed even though it looked fine. 30 mins later, i pulled out the plugs and coilpacks. The coilpacks looked ok, no surface cracks or hairline splits besides the normal joins. The shocking part were the plugs! They were so caked with carbon it was jet black with no metal exposed. the plugs are only 2 weeks old. I'll post a picture of them when i have time. all 6 plugs were carbonized to hell. The gapping on them was something like .8 mil by the looks of it. Changed them to NGK-R plugs and re-assembled everything. The car did not behave like it did at hyperdrive yet, but i'll have to wait two weeks to see any real facts as the previous plugs were on for 2 weeks before it got reallly bad. fuel consumption is still around the 200K per tank mark, just filled up and I'm at 140K's and i'm past half tank already.

Does anyone have a picture of where its located by any chance.. i must be needing glasses as i cant find it...

thanks for the offer mate, i'm unfortunately in WA. looks like i'll have to find or buy the cable.

thanks for the tip!

Where abouts is the o2 sensor located in a r32 gtr? Is this part cleanable with electronic contact cleaner? cheers!

throttle response improved, the car rev's freely before it seemed it bit laboured. the missfires during idle happens more when the ECU is reset. you could actually smell the fuel, these to me seem like characteristics of running too rich... it almost seems like it starts off really rich then leans out. I'll prolly get about 200k's ish out of the 54liters i put in.. thats really worrying me.

I read the article, SHOCKING... ABSOLUTELY SHOCKING! I do agree with it, I noticed the HKS filters are not very good at filtering small particles. Personally i thought the blitz one would be worse.. Okay now i have to spend MORE money again! Taking the GTR down to a mates workshop to check out my coilpacks and plug gaps. I'll post updates then. Cheers

Okay, another update: Didnt manage to get to supercheap or any other store before 5.30, so i wasnt able to get the gap gauge. Did an ECU reset by removing one of the battery terminals and then holding down the brake for a min. Restarted car, when it did misfire a few times. Remembered the test QR105E mentioned to check if the AFM's are working, pulled both out one by one and the car spluttered and died after each one was pulled out. It crossed my mind that I've just reset the ECU and it might have been remapping as i disconnected the AFM's. Just to make sure i didnt stuff up my mapping, I did the ECU reset again. The car drives better now (prolly the AFM clean), but still pops on idle. Just incase someone is wondering what i mean by BAD fuel consumption. I filled up 54 liters of BP98RON, i'm at 3/4 tank and i've only done 184km!!!! my bonnet sticker says plug gaps is supposed to be 1.05mm, this sounds a bit much to me, anyone know what the recommended plug gap would be? I'm going to be using NGK-R's this saturday when i can get some.

Does anyone know how much it would cost in labour to swap turbo's on a r32 GTR in perth? I would really appreciate recommendations on which workshops in perth could do this job properly without ripping me off. Besides the cost of the turbos,labour and gaskets, what else would I be up for? I tried searching for a DIY turbo swap, but no joy... cant blame a bloke for trying!

sounds like a good idea, i'll follow your instructions and do this tommorow. cheers mate.

Blasted the 2nd AFM sensor (turbo A's sensor) with contact cleaner (the slightly harder one to remove) this evening when i got home from work. The cleaner that dripped out was black so it was pretty crudded up in there. Will have to pick up some new HKS filter pads (sigh.. more money!) anyway I gave it a fair clean. let the AFM dry up, connected the piping back and let the car warm up a little bit. No audible pops yet on idle.. very good sign (note: the engine was cold). Drove the car around for a little while till it warmed up to normal range. Then drove a little spiritedly around the block, floored it to check my boost, and suprisingly it went up to around 0.7-.8 bar! (is this normal anyone?)backed off at that point because I was coming to an intersection. Drove around to cool down and parked the car, set the turbo timer on 2 mins. Had a listen to the exhaust, to my dismay it started popping again on idle (note: this time the engine was warmed up after all the driving). I'm going to get a spark plug gap gauge from super cheap auto to check the gap on my spark plugs (0.8mil i believe its supposed to be?). From there I'll find out what plugs were used when my car was serviced last week. Will post the results. I've read that you can check coil packs by measuring resistance between the terminals. more resistance = good (is this true?). Anyone know if its worthwhile checking the coilpacks at this stage?

Thought i'd add this in for future reference incase anyone searches the forums regarding this topic. I've confirmed these few details with a few mechanics who specialize in GTR's: The real difference between the N1 pumps and standard pumps is the N1 pumps stop cavitation at higher RPM's. One tuner mentioned he had standard GTR water pump on his 680HP GTR without any adverse effects. People with high HP track cars doing endurance runs (holding revs over 5000+ rpms for a good period of time) will see real benefits from a N1 pump. The standard gtr water pump is around AU$189, the N1 is about AU$400. Physically the N1 has a bigger 6 fin arrangement (see pic above) and an extra hole (apparently) the standard GTR pump has a smaller 8 fin arrangement. From my own experience, street driving with the standard pump vs the N1, I've seen no real increase in cooling performance with the N1, its still the almost same as standard. Bear in mind I dont push my car hard at all. I suppose I'll take solice in the fact that if I belt it hard, my water pump wont go