Scratch

The car is running like absolute croc shit... heavy HEAVY fuel consumption, feels like its lost power and pop's while driving now. got some CRC C02 electronic contact cleaner. only had time to do one intake last night. sprayed in the same direction as the air flow direction. Will try and do the other today night.. improved slightly but still pop's during driving. I'm begining to wonder if the AFM's are really the cause of this.. a new battery was installed the day after i got the timing belt , water pump and service done. the battery was out for roughly 3-5 mins only. did not press the brake lights or anything so i doubt the ECU has reset itself and is currently learning. But does anyone know if this is likely?

No, the water pump does not need to be done at a 100K. The reason most of us do it anyway is because the water pump is accessible when you change the timing belt (so you save on labour). Timing belts are done every 100K, but the pump would be fragged by the time you reach 200K for your next belt change. I did it purely to save on labour costs and not risk the pump blowing before 200K.

hey QRI05E, Checked the idle and it isnt fluctuating. Will try the AFM cleaning as suggested, might be worthwhile. As far as injector cleaning goes, whats the best way of doing this? getting some Injector cleaner additives? or professionally cleaned?

I've got a r32 GTR (93) and its making popping noises from the exhaust while idle. The car has just had a timing belt and water pump changed including service just two days ago (new plugs, oil filter, motul oil, etc). I've always been getting horrible fuel consumption and i can see that i'm running rich from the carbon build up on the exhaust. I was sure the belt change and tune up would fix it, but alas it still plagues me. The car has a twin HKS pods, N1 water pump, brand new battery and a thrust catback exhaust; stock standard otherwise including stock boost. there is no fixed sequence of pops and happens every 10-15 seconds randomly. car was idle-ing for about 15 mins. Did a search on the forums and most people state sparkplugs is the cause but again, i have brand new spark plugs. anyone have any thoughts on what might be causing it?

This should be a sticky. Good job on the guide!

Slightly off topic as well, where can i pickup one of these datascan cables and software? Do they make the cables for the r32 GTR's ?

the 100000k service is considered by most workshops to be a full fluid bleed and change for your pwsteering. etc... along with changing your belts and water pump {hence the prices}. mention that you only want to do the belt and that should cut the price.. get the water pump changed if you can, coz u'll save on labour doin it with the belt. dont risk the engine over a belt... engines cost more to fix

thx for the feedback everyone... picked up the n1 water pump and got it installed today. fingers crossed for the future.

Time to get my water pump changed on my r32 gtr. I'm thinking about paying extra and getting the N1 waterpump installed as a good upgrade. However i've been told by a respectable tuner that the N1's would not work very well under normal driving conditions (in traffic, in the middle of an aussie summer with the airconditioning cranked up) and might cause problems. Apparently i've heard that the N1 water pumps only works well under high Rev's for long durations. Can anyone clarify this for me?

Hows it going mad? the BOV was on the auto tranmission r34's as well? (i'm fairly new to nissan's) I'll explain why i'm asking these questions (might not matter with newer cars, but i'll mention it anyway): I had a mkIII supra previously (Ga70, 1G-GTE engine, Auto, used a MAF sensor not a MAP sensor like the 1JZ) and it did not have a stock BOV. I got a BOV put on next to the throttle body. I then added a cat back exhaust with HI Flow cat and a HKS superpower flow pod kit. Once that was done, did a dyno run and the car didnt perform as expected (almost worse acctually). Turns out the ECU could not cope with the now quicker and larger amount of air flying into the engine, and started flooding the engine with fuel (even had tiny droplets of fuel spluttering out the exhaust. A SAFC had to be installed to fix the problem and to make the most of the mods (got even more HP with the SAFC). After reading about it on the web, it seems that ECU cars without a stock BOV or with recirculation valve factor this in its air fuel calculations (is this true anyone?). Introducing a atmo BOV or POD kit threw these calculations out the window apparently. Again this problem plagued older ECUs, and i'm sure the r34's electronics are well advanced compared to a Ga70 supra, atleast i hope so *chuckle*. Newer ECU or Not I'd still recommend get a SAFC when you start changing AF parts, purely to get the most of your mods.

A tuner here in perth mentioned that stock airboxes are good for up to 400Hp anyway. pod's were originally put in because the stock airboxes wouldn't fit once a FMIC was installed, piping and all. Eventually that message got lost and the ricerboys put on pods for the "fully sik sucking noise" *chuckle* Does your 34 come with a stock bov? (let me know even if its a recirculation valve)

thx for the tips kozeyeken, Mad082 and Godzilla32. I'll definately get the gaskets checked as koze mentioned, i had a feeling that was it as well. the exhaust is from japan with the car, from what i can see it is well covered in carbon build up so its been there for a while. I didnt think about the cat converter, my reason was the same; they wouldnt have it complied with a dodgy cat. Having said that, many dealer swap gear when they comply cars anyway, so i'll have to get the thing up in a hoist.. Overall I'm beginning to think i'm running rich and the car needs a tune up. But i'm not sure if running rich will cause an increase in exhaust-carbon-monoxide-type fumes. i'm under the impression that you usually smell fuel if its running rich... is this not the case?

I have a R32 GTR (93 edition), just purchased it, stock standard running a whole 5psi of standard boost (chuckle). Got two HKS Superpower flow air filters and a thrust catback exhaust on it as well. Fairly stock car, RAWS complianced. when the vehicle is running idle, the smell exhaust fumes is nearly overwhelming. There is no smoke coming out fo the exhaust or anything, just a lot of exhaust-smell-type-fumes (bear with me as i work through the terminology). I can smell it inside the car when driving as well; not really bad, but still there. when walking around the car on idle i can smell it around the engine bay area as well. when I rev the engine on idle, there is no smoke. However when I rev it hard (around 4000+ RPM) on idle, i see black carbon like smoke coming out of the exhaust (not blue or white smoke). Dont see anything when driving, nothing obvious enough anyway. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

I was speaking to a performance tuner here in perth today, and he mentioned something interesting... Apparently the GTR's have a set standard of fluids that have to be used in major components of the car. For example the 4WD system can only use Nissan Matic D fluid. Using normal brand fluids causes the small clutch within the unit (4WD) to slip, and get damaged as a result. A quick google search later, i found it was due to the vicosity of the fluids and their behaviour based on temperature changes. He mentioned specific fluids for the transmission and powersteering as well, but i cant remember the names now for the life of me. This rang a bell, because the powersteering is fluid is used by the HICAS system. I'm wondering if this could be something to look at as well. It seems very very few garages uses these fluid because they are INSANELY expensive and most people dont even know about it. I believe the types of fluids to use is mentioned in the r32 workshop manual. Kinda hard now because i dont know whats in mine! have to bleed everything and start from "scratch"... (jokes on me ) Does anyone know if the fluids are non issue with hicas?

thanks for the reply randy, Sorry i forgot to give details about my car! I drive a r32 GTR (93'). It does not crab walk when the hicas warning comes on, the steering just gets a little hard (not very much, barely noticeable), the car tends to turn in a "rounder" angle when the hicas light comes on for some weird reason. Again the issue is resolved by turning the engine on or off, I was stationary at the time so it might not be the sub frame bushes. Having said that, I still think you gave a good tip, didnt think about checking that out before! The main unit you mention on the drivers side rail, you're refering to the power steering fluid, correct? (the one with the two wires coming out of the cap?) The manual states that HICAS shares the power steering fluid, low fluid level = hicas warning. I think i need to run that hicas diagnostic routine i found on here. Hope its not a dodgy solenoid, rare as hamstrings.

I've heard rumours that aftermarket steering wheels can sometimes cause HICAS to come on for no apparent reason, is this true?. Another post i read off the GTR.co.uk forum states that if the battery is disconnected for a while, and the wheels were not straight when it was reconnected then the hicas could give problems as well. Is it a safe bet to assume that disconnecting the battery and reconnecting with the wheels straight, might fix a hicas problem? I've currently got my hicas lamp coming on at random times when driving, it resolves by me turning the engine off and back on again. I'd prefer keeping hicas (lockbar = last resort), does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? (Note: i do have a After Market steering wheel, but since its intermitted; i dont know if this is the cause) cheers

Hmm... guessed as much but hoped otherwise, I know they did release the 320kmh speedometers in white. Damn knock off monkeys need to be Cheers for the info.

Hi, I was just browsing for some R33 Cluster dials and noticed a few people on the web selling a Nismo White EL C-Dial kit. Does anyone out there know if nismo ever did release such a thing? or is this another knock off job? example: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...item=8070324074