PsYLoR

Firstly just to make it clear, are you measuring this on a 100% dead flat surface? and have you measured the 'actual height' properly on each side and compared that?

Google is your friend too, seriously now Type in google " how to gap spark plugs " & click on the first link.

The photo is of it on the Hotwheels 'thundadome' placemat lol It's best lap time is 3.27 seconds I haven't had it on the dyno yet But i reckon it would make about 700hp

I'll race you with my 32....

what's the latest news on the car? any more sightings or what? Hope you have some good new soon.

that video enrages me, Will be on the look out for the car & the scumbags, grrrr

You need to get the adjustable sway bars for sure, Set the rear harder to promote oversteer, if your still getting understeer soften up the front swaybar. Having the right alignment settings & good tyres helps too.

Yeah hyperdiscombobulator's got something to do with a broken fraps or your flux capacitor maybe?

i like your 10000000 sq meter garage!

You need to heat them up, Im sure i read a tutorial or something on it somewhere? I think its pretty involved to do it, so you may as well either go all out & do both, clean em up etc, or just buy another one 2nd hand or even 2 new headlights or get series 3 GTR ones however much you want to spend i guess...

better front tires Harden up the rear sway bar, then soften the front sway bar if it still needs it.

Assuming your using the right tein tools and that isn't working? I'd Just take em to Fulcrum and tell em you can't adjust them can they see why and maybe if they can adjust them for you? No harm in trying?

More than likely, clutch slipping = new clutch. If its slipping that badly it wont be creating the friction needed to make it smell. Unless you sit there letting it slip for long enough (dont). Either way take it very easy (dont drive it unless you need to) until you can get it checked out.

Either the tacho needle has been bumped and could have a loose connection, or it'll be a wiring issue somewhere. I have the same prob, thought I fixed it but the problem soon returned. Ive got a PFC so i can use the hand controller to show revs (its signal is fine). So for me i know that the ecu is getting a good rpm signal but the problem is happening either at the tacho or in the wire that runs from the ecu to the tacho. Still yet to fix it. ;( If i give the dash a hit it usually fixes itself (for a bit). lol

Ive pretty much got the same set up with Hicas lock in my 33, My steering occasionally goes harder but I put it down to my speedo being intermittent and this causing the speed sensitive steering to fail. Not sure??? I'll drive along and the steering will be hard (but not hard like no power steering at all) but then as soon as my speedo comes to life the steering goes light. (This happened to me before i had hicas lock & hicas diag comes up clean) So im wondering if its to do with either the speedo sensor signal or as mad082 said.... Ive changed power steering fluid, checkd for air bubbles and still get randomness. :S

I reckon and im just speculating, On a stock engine the front & back mesh may give a very slight advantage by breaking & evenly distributing the air towards the sensor itself, otherwise without the mesh slightly more air would pass around the sensor taking the path of least resistance. But i reckon the mesh is probably most effective in stock range, Ie with a lot more boost you might find it has the opposite effect by restricting the flow a little bit. Taking the trailing mesh off would make a slight difference too. I reckon its one of those things that might benefit one car but not another, and if the car has been tuned after the mesh is gone the effect it has probably wont matter anyway. just my 2cents.

I think the stocks might be 20? im sure ive got Whiteline 24mm front and back, have to check, but the front still has a tiny little bit of body roll but certainly no understeer like PM-R33 describes, i just get grip grip grip oversteer weeeeeeeeeee.

Ive searched heaps but am still unsure/confused, Can someone please clarify for me the pros/ cons of blocking that tiny little 5mm hole with a flush screw on the inside base of the stock r33 (rb25det) BOV Thanks

lol, its like 5-10km/h off, take into account that video wasn't made when the car was brand new and that the gear speeds are theoretical as I stated. You don't even know if that video IS a completely stock car down to exhaust and rims. Anyway your the one who said.... in return to someone saying.... When clearly 3rd gear can do a "theoretical" 154 km/h (96 mph) im not being picky I just think you where wrong to say "it doesn't make 160km/h in 3rd."

Not the greatest idea to assume it wasn't done on a dyno / drag strip / race track / private runway either you should of been well into 4th. When you change from say 3rd to 4th at 7000rpm the revs dont drop to 1000rpm do they? It will drop from say 7000rpm to like 5000+rpm depending on the driver. So you would be doing 5000+rpm in 4th @ 160km/h "well into 4th i'd say"

It could be related to any number of things, it helps to be more specific with what you have done to the car if you want some help, but at the end of the day its all going to be speculation until you take it to be tuned professionally. Seriously now.... It could be as simple as something taping from the change in inertia and making the knock sensor give a reading.

Het gotRICE, what you talking about I know I have these specs with my a series 1 r33 gts25t..... I actually tested 1st to 4th speeds out today Drivetrain Transmission 5 speed manual Gear Ratios Maximum Speed in Gears (* theoretical) 1 3.214 62 km/h (38 mph) 2 1.925 104 km/h (65 mph) 3 1.302 154 km/h (96 mph) 4 1.000 200 km/h (124 mph) 5 0.752 266 km/h (165 mph)* As far as I know mine is all standard Diff/Gearbox.

Yes it will be safe to drive it 10km to the tuner? - you should re read the Power FC FAQ again, then read it once more after you've read it twice already. If your still worried, when you drive it there go to SETTINGS,,,, IGN/ INJ Change the Ign Timing down -10 so the whole map is down 10 degrees everywhere - wont see much knock then.

Just a thought, but assuming you already have exhaust and air filter upgrades, You would be better off buying an boost controller next, install & up the boost a little bit when you get it tuned. Then when your used to that and you want even more boost, upgrade to a FMIC then retune. Theres plenty more mods you can do before the SMIC will need upgrading.

drop it down to 3rd on the freeway and see if it pulls better. "IF" it is getting heat soaked you would probably be better off putting some better ducting and a little water mist sprayer in front of the SMIC then going a big front mount on a completely stock car.