A14Force

Cool thanks guys. Looks like I'll have to have a measure up. I sold a car to a young guy tonight who thinks they have a 33 non hicas rear frame at his work.

Sweetbix. So I can slam an R32 non hicas rear end under an R33? I scored a non nicas from a povo pack r32 a while ago, I was saving it for an A31 I scored for free. But I think the 33 coupe will be a better fit with what i'm wanting to do with the car.

Can any one tell me which other models of the "drift family" nissans will interchange with the rear subframe in an R33? Good ol' Nissan is a lot like lego with the way parts can be chopped and changed. ButI'ma bit new to the finer points when it comes to thingslike that. Your advice is greatly appreciated.

Sorry, mine is a WGC34. Although advise I've recieved on other forums leans toward the fuel pump being rooted.

Where can I find it? My stagea decided not to start at the supermarket today. I suspect it's not getting any fuel. Where is the fuel pump relay?

I have an RB20E with an auto box. I know it's been given a hard time by the previous owner. Sometimes when it's cold I'll come to a stop and the auto wont disengage, and the motor stalls. Whats up with that?

Ive owned over 30 cars so far, and my A31 is by far the newest. Hence the comfort. As for buying a laurel and a hell expensive motor, that defeats the whole purpose. I have lots of other toys I'd rather invest the big dollars in. It's all about doing stuff on the cheap for me. Any fool can blow a huge wad of cash.

Please don't flame me If I've failed to find this info by searching, but...... Can anyone tell me what the number on the side of an RB20DET gearbox (manual) should be. How about an RB20DE? I need to know what I'm looking at. Cheers.

Thats kind of what I was wondering. I'd rather remove the ecu, and just bridge out the wires nessesary to make it run, and to make the guages function. I'd need to reg down the fuel pressure. (If not change the pump) I'd be starting with an RB20E car, so there's not guite as much gadgetry to delete.

Cheers, I'll take a look at that. I'll have to fix it before the end of summer. It gets farking cold in this part of the world.

Lumpy cams? The Y40 is a single cam pushrod V8, out of an old school president. I wouldn't shag around souping it up. I have other toys for that. Lopey idle's wear thin pretty quick. Plus the Y40 is only a three main crank, so revving them past 6000 is a recipe for broken engines. I just think it would be a nice cruiser.

Because I can get one with a rebuit auto quite cheap. Plus it would make a nice cruiser. 190hp, and no lag. The cool sound of a V8, and the comfort of a ceffy. Plus the rocker covers are aluminium with "NISSAN" cast on them. It'd be something a bit different. And, it would do mean skids!

I'm toying with the idea of repowering an A31 with a nissan Y40 V8. It'd be a fairly straight forward coversion I think. But does anyone have any clues about what would be involved in bypassing the ECU? Do things like the signal for the temperature guage come from the ECU? Your thoughts please.

My ceffy has always had a minor odour of coolant when I first turn the heater on. But lately, the problem has deteriated to a visable trickle. Is it going to be a pain in the ass to get the heater out? Has anyone done it? got any tips?

That Link doesn't actually offer a colour for the car side. Might try the orange with white stripe. I'm not real keen on any dead shorts though.