Ghostrider

Depends on which L28 block you have too! If you plan to over bore an F54 turbo block, forget about turbo or boosting even at factory 7 psi, because your engine is prone to failure at 89mm bore as the cylinder walls become to thin and become pourous allowing oil into the water through the cylinder walls under boost conditions. If your planning to use an F54 block and an 89mm bore with your LD28 crank stick to EFI at best. The best block for an 89mm bore is an N42 no matter what anybody says or thinks, but if you go down the F54 track, don't come back to me when you have oil in your coolant and everything is operating as it should, because you have been warned. And your LD28 crank isn't just going to drop into your L28 block without some extensive machine work. Go search HybridZ about this engine conversion because they have done this mod a lot in US. Most importantly, it IS NOT a cheap exercise as all the threads on HybridZ will tell you. Cheers, D

Well I have done some more research and as much as I love Canon, I don't think the 40D would cut it for me in the long term, so if I'm going to go for an interchangeable lens digital camera as a fill in, I think the Panasonic Lumix G2 with either 45 - 200 (90~400mm in 35mm equivalent), or 100 - 300 (200~600mm in 35mm equivalent) lens with my ultimate goal the Olympus E5 maybe. The Panasonic from all reports has all the bells & whistles, a fast focus lens in AF mode, very capable manual focus eye piece/viewfinder and a very competitive price to boot. The US guys have put huge wraps on the G1, especially the circles I move in and with an adaptor can use argueably the best SLR camera glass ever made, Canon FD, so the G2 is probably a good upgrade for me. Cheers, Dennis

Ricky, Sports Classic are out in Ted Bullpits area (Kingswood Country) near Penrith/Castlereagh and he is the most expensive wrecker of old school Zeds & Skylines on earth and in most cases the parts can be imported from USA or Japan cheaper than buying them from him. A short time back Stewart Wilkins needed an F54 block and he had one in a complete engine and he wanted $1200.00 for the F54/P90 engine complete. Everything he has, he thinks is GOLD PLATED & diamond encrusted, or that's how he prices them. He rallies Zeds and he is known in the business as a rip off and is avoided like the plague. Nothing surprises me about him these days. Cheers, D

Well! Ummmmm, I just got back from Melbourne last night and I can tell you all something is for sure. The C210 of Mario's (hgc210) is certainly one very nice vehicle in the flesh. Unfortunately it isn't strictly JDM original as it sits today, but still a very fine example all the same. His latest venture will certainly have his hands full and it will be interesting to see it as it progresses. Back on track, I really think this guy is dreaming and from what I see in the pictures, the so called Webbers do nothing for me being downdraft with adapters, the GTR badges are just posey poxy things on an Oz delivered car, but I guess we shouldn't expect anything less coming from Minchinbury. Cheers, D

Yeah! I suggested he might have an extra zero on the end D

I see the point you're trying to put over BUT? At the end of the day it's JUST a tricked up HR31, so why more collectable than JUN, HKS, TRUST, etc or in Australia, Stewart Wilkins or Arthur Jackson with anything L series? Cheers, D

There is an S54 GTB on this forum ................... be very surprised if anything is older, so for a Skyline 1964 would just about do it. There is though an early 310 in project form and that's about 1959. D

Does a set of Tommy Kaira rims count?

For as long as you can get ULP, 91 RON is as good as you can get for your L24E, but after it goes to E10 only, PULP 95 RON is about the best. You will NOT see any benefit from 98 as opposed to 95. Ethanol fuels will be good but only if E30 + can be organised. To get this you're going to have to mix E85 & E10 together to get approx E30. To get the best out of Ethanol, your going to also have to put an optional kit on the car to (about $200.00) Oil? Anything heavier than 10W 30 or 40 in a good engine is considered GLUE in L series circles. The older the engine, the heavier your going to need though, but it would be a really stuffed engine to be burning 40 grade oil. Plugs? Go with MAG's suggestion, because they are as good as you can get, but change them at 6 monthly intervals. Cheers, D

That black hatch looks the goods. I was tempted to try and make a 2 door version of this when I first started my projects, but the expense of doing the entire roof & rear sections as a cut & shut was insane, so the plan was shelved. Cheers, D

Ok Maxx, You have my attention; Is the 40D the pick or is the 50D better or worse? They can be sourced for similar money. Is the 70~200U f2.8L lens worth the money they are asking, or is the f4 up to the task. I know from film lens experience, quite a number of after market lenses out performed the Canon L Pro lenses a lot. Like series 1 Vivitar 70~210 and Tamron SP 70~210 (arguably the best 70~210 zoom ever made) I was did a test on short, up to 100mm zooms once and in the 35~80 class the Tamron mkII 35~70 out performed them all including their own SP35~80 in clarity, sharpness & contrast. The test was done at Ulladula shooting over water between 1100 - 1300 on Fuji Provia 100F positive film & Fuji Reala 100 negative film. Cheers, Dennis

Thanks, I can understand the speed of focus. Many moons ago I used to do some part time press photography at Warwick Farm, Oran Park & some times Amaroo and in those days my set up was a Pentax Spotmatic & motor drive with a Novaflex 600mm follow focus lens. It was a huge lens from memory, about 450mm long in todays measurements and it had to be supported with a shoulder mount and cable release. So what sensor size should I be looking for? Cheers, Dennis

I have been watching this section for some time now and until recently have not even looked at a digital SLR. I only own 1 dgital camera and it's an Olympus 500UZ point & shoot compact. I am considering the Canon 550D with 55~250 lens as it would be primarily be used for motorsport & action sport events. I can't really justify the thousands of dollars for a 5D body and more thousands for the top lenses to go with it. As the 550D is 18MP it should suffice my digital needs. I own argueably the best film SLR's ever made and whilst I can buy film & get it processed I'm going to stick with them. In my collection I have 1 x Canon F1n, 4 x T90, 3 x T70, 4 x A1 and many accessories and lenses to go with them. The A1 & F1n motor drives wind at over 5fps and T90 not far behind at 4.5fps, so they hold their own against the best of digital equivalents. The only drawback is the length of the film vs a memory card. Cheers, D

2 to many doors for me! And when I already got 2 x KHR's & 1 x KDR30, not much room left

I'll be surprised @ $1800.00!

Drew, your timing is impeccable? I have no space to keep anymore cars, otherwise I might have been very interested. Cheers, D

Another non believer! Best you buy your beloved R32, coz they never ever going to be one of these cars. A drift pig, ummm I thought S13's would be the go for that? D

There has been a power shift at the top of Shannons. Now that Just Cars & Shannons have merged, the old CEO of Shannons, was replaced by the CEO coming over from Just Cars. I don't know that this is the reason for policy change, but could be? From my experiences Just Cars was never as competitive as Shannons. Cheers, D

This is exactly why I went looking! My preferred repairer & vehicle owner are in a legal battle at the moment regarding damage to an 1934 Ford Coupe & my repairer referred me to Lumley's and hence why I'm asking some questions. So far I'm leaning still to Shannon's only because of the lack of support for Lumley's. Cheers, D

Have a look at the seller's ID and all will be revealed. Cheers, D

Sam, You might do better with VL Dunnydores as opposed to L28e/280ZX/280C options. Firstly, there is by far more of them and the likelyhood of a good seconhand set more likely. The R31 Skyline had the same injectors, or more importantly, the VL had the same injectors as the R31. If you're going to the wreckers tomorrow, ANY L24e MR30 Skyline Ti (like your own) will have the oil pressure switch you're looking for. The poverty packs as I refer to them, the basic S models only ever had an oil pressure light & the sender is entirely diferent. When you're getting injectors, take a full set if you can afford them. If out of an R30 Skyline, be sure to take the painted ferrules under the hose, because they are invalueable and much better than a screw clip, they will be a pain to get the hose out of but well worth it. I'm unsure of the R31 & VL injectors, wether they have the ferrule or utilise another clip instead, but to get at the R31 & VL injectors, you're going to have to dismantle the inlet manifold (take the top off) Cheers, Dennis

Sam, It looks like you have a great Ti which is the very top of the tree in Australian delivered cars and for a long time now, have been considered the best ever Skyline by those that sold them new. Your oil pressure switch is best sourced from a wrecker, as Nissan want about $180.00 for it. After market ones are available from Repco or Bursons or some other reputable parts supplier, BUT they have diferent connections and therefore have to be modified to suit. Try the wreckers first, because 2ndhand will cost you about $5.00, so grab a few that look like they don't leak and take the wires with them, as you might want to modify an after market unit somewhere along the way. Try this link to injectors http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Injector-Nissan-280ZX-79-80-81-82-83-2-8L-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a9b5dec91QQitemZ320434203793QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories BUT first enquire about postage. The $33.95 quoted is enough to post 12 plus to Australia. Cheers, D

The L28e & L24e use identical injectors. It's the L28et (turbo) that has larger injectors. The injection systems are very nearly identical. Do as John suggested, check all the hose clips are tight, unless of coarse you can see where the injector is leaking from, but if it is possibly a hose clip loose, problem can be solved easily and quickly. Cheers, Dennis

Hi All, I recently posted a topic in Classic section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/351665-classic-car-insurance/ about Classic Car Insurance, as I was looking for an alternative to Shannon's. I found a company Lumley's Special Vehicles they are under written by Wesfarmers. I'm just wondering if anybody has had any dealings with them, as I can save over $100.00 per year in premium cost with exactly the same benefits I get now with Shannon's. Thanks, D

Work on the KISS system, don't make it to complicated and you will find it's a great place to deal. I buy heaps of parts from the states. In a lot of cases the items are by far cheaper than buying them here, so some of the freight cost doesn't matter. For an example, I wanted to get 6 injectors cleaned in Australia and they were going to cost me $35.00 each x 6 = $210.00, yet I found a complete set in USA, which included new seals, pintle caps, hoses & clips, connectors with pigtail, solder & shrink wrap and flow matched to 1% landed in Australia including the postage for AU$215.00. Just keep the shipment cost below AU$1000.00 and then it will cruise through customs FREE, anything over $1000.00 will attract duty & tax etc etc etc. If you can organise larger items to be broken down into under $1000.00 lots, do it, because you can have any number of parcels so long as the value stated on the declaration is under AU$1000.00. Cheers, D