Ghostrider

I will later. Have to put the verniers over one. I have oversize (5/8th) because I'm using the SWR adjustable bar.

Dan, Your front sway bar mount rubbers will be same as R30, Tension bar bushes will depend on diameter, but I think same. Sway bar end/link pin bushes are all same. Pedders have a beaut pin, it has a flat in the centre of it so eack end can be tightened separately and can be bought in varying lengths. As for your rear end float: No it's not normal and it shouldn't be there. Tighten the nuts or maybe the bushes are stuffed, so they might have to be replaced. If you cant do any good, PM me and I'll try to organise them in Sydney and post them to you. Cheers, D

The best legopener I ever owned was an MkII MGB

mmmmmm!!!!! I suppose we're all dumb asses here ????????????????? 9k front, 8k rear, 15" deep dish etc etc etc and you're not going to drive it like a bogan ?????? Your 25 and live on the Gold Coast and your not going to act like every other young Skyline driver on the Gold Coast, mmmmm!!!!!!!!!! Something doesn't compute here. Have you ever heard of balance? Do you know what the factory constants are?? Do you know how heavy the car is??? Have you ever driven a car like racsov500 suggests on Australian roads???? Be interesting to see your response, because it sure looks like you know more than us about what your asking, so why bother in the first place.

Very typical for that particular sandgroper

Least we agree on some of it. I wasn't suggesting driving it would be fun, just interesting to own for nostalgic reasons. You had an 1300 Juniour eh! I used to have 57 Giulietta Spider and my all time fav alfa is a 105 GTV. I think they would have won Bathurst if they had have kept their wheels on. Your Patrol belongs in a museum lol Cheers, D

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm???? says the man that doesn't own a classic & obviously doesn't appreciate them.

The 260km/h speedo is very difficult to get these days, as Jenesis wont trade outside of the domestic market. One sold on ebay (complete cluster) recently for a little over $200.00 and the Tomei variety 240km/h gets onto Yahoo in Japan a bit often but landed it would cost in excess of $600.00. When you look at the back of the S1 cluster, you will find it entirely diferrent to the S2. I might have an Aussie S2 dashboard harness in a grey dash under the house that you can play with if you like. I'll have a look over the weekend and let you know. Mechanical parts I will be reluctant to let go because I have 2 x KHR30 Paul Newman coupes & an DR30 coupe track car that need maintaining. A stock tailshaft I might have, as I'm upgrading one of my PNV's to the stronger larger DR30 tailshaft. The companion flange might be an issue because all my R30's came out with R200 diffs. Probably the only box I have that I would be prepared to let go is an HR31 RB20DET box. The RB30E throttle body isn't much better than the one you have now. The next one up is the 60mm KA24E (U12 Pintara) or RB25DE throttle body and with an a/mkt ECU you wont need an AFM at all, as it will most likely use an MAF sensor. As for an inlet plenum, you might find it's more cost effective to extrude hone or power port the manifold. I have an N42 (non EGR) 280ZX inlet manifold that has been comcoated, that I might be tempted to part with, or maybe a stock 280ZX EGR manifold, depending how your bent.

This is what you want if your going to do it easy! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-DR30-Skyline...=item58867ab14f If you buy this, take it to South West Instruments at Smeaton Grange and he will modify it for you. He did my S2 cluster a few years ago. Cheers, D

Your going to have a problem fitting your S2 instrument cluster into an S1 car. All your connections are diferrent, so you're going to have to rewire or maybe replace the instrument loom. Don't know if the latter is possible, but rewiring would be. The R32 box can be used but it needs an L series front housing on it. As Mags says Stewart Wilkins will do the mod for you. The gear lever is going to come out of the tunnel a little further back in the hole, which isn't a huge biggie issue. I was originally going down the RB25DE conversion until I stumbled across my PNV and decided to keep it a bit stockish. It's a relatively easy conversion and been done to bits, along with the RB30E conversion. I'm about to have a huge cleanout of accumulated bits, so if your interested let me know. Cheers, D

MrB owns an WRX & an MR30. Somehow I can't see him trying to drive his MR30 at speeds warranting the extra thickness in brake disc rotors. I might be wrong but ????????????????????? The R31 is also 100kg heavier that the heaviest of R30, so it needs something otherwise it would never have complied with the ADR's. If after 1 or 2 aggressive stops your MR brakes have gone to mush, maybe your pads are the wrong compound for the application? Most standard pad compounds are rated at 350~400 degrees C and are perfectly satisfactory for the average day to day driver. JMHO

Dunno that the thicker rotor is so crash hot? Depends on the application, but for an average daily driver the stock R30 brakes would be adequate I would think. The exercise was put up to remedy a leaking caliper, not as a requested performance upgrade. Unless MrB wants to spend heaps of bucks, he might be sticking with the stock brakes. Something I didn't mention as well is, that ALL of the R31's I looked at today had seized calipers and would also need to be rebuilt before use and that's the chance taken buying from the wreckers. The 15/16" master cylinder is a great upgrade, but best used with a bigger (10") master vac and they aren't easy to find. D

Good luck! With those spring rates, you're never going to stop it going into a corner on our roads. Even Queensland roads aren't that good and if you can't stop, your investment is heading straight for the scrap yard. D

Well Baz, After today, I would be putting R31 pistons & seals in the R30 calipers if I couldn't buy the R30 parts I required. Pistons and seal kits. The obvious diferrences between the 2 pistons is the R31 piston is shorter by 4mm, has a recess in the back and has full 54mm dia contact area on the pad. I can't see how anyone can say the R31 caliper, on the R30 is better than the original, as the only operational diferrence between both pistons is the contact surface area of the piston to the pad and IF it is better, it would be very marginal. The seals are both 3mm wide x 3mm thick and fit in each opposing caliper the same. The dust cover seals, although marginally diferent in shape and design, both fit in the opposing calipers the same and fit each piston the same. The pistons: R31 is 44mm long x 54mm dia and R31 contact face area to pad is full dia 54mm. R30 is 48mm long x 54mm dia and R30 has reduced contact face area to pad of 49mm. Both have the same dia dust seal groove, 48mm. Both have same distance from contact face to piston of 8.5mm. IMHO both pistons & seal kits would serve the purpose the same way. The only reason I can see for these obvious changes to piston design is the fact that the R31 was made in Australia and had to have something like 85% local content, so that Nissan could get their imported parts & cars into Australia under by-laws and lower import tariffs, therefore these parts were sourced locally and not imported. Below are some pictures that will show what I have found and suggest. Cheers, Dennis

Ok! Been to Dapto today and as usual, they don't know what they have and there was one manual, but the pedal box was being removed when I was there and the rest had gone, if the guys taking out the pedal box already didn't have it. PM me with what you need for this manual conversion and I'll see what I have spare. Cheers, Dennis

I just found this whilst strolling through Yahoo Japan. It's an 280D (Diesel) GT C211 Sedan and you can have it complied in Australia for about AU$13500.00 + rego http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...11%20280%202800 Wouldn't it be nice! Cheers, D

Dapto don't know what they have! Last Thursday they told me they had ONE (1) but I found FIVE (5) so maybe the four (4) they don't have are manual lol I'm going back to Extreme Turbo Manifolds on Thursday morning, so I will stop in to Pick a Part and look. If I find I'll take some pickies for you as proof. Cheers, D

Rushy (Pick n Payless) at Blacktown doesn't have any ????????? Take a drive down to Dapto Pick a Part, they have 5 MR30's down there and I think 2 were manuals complete when I was there last Thursday. I wasn't looking for manuals persay, but will if you like as I should be down there this week after picking up my manifold from a guy nearby. (Extreme Turbo Manifolds) Cheers, D

K. Usually stands for coupe in that era, so maybe as it is pillarless it falls under the same code H31 should be easy for you. H31 is the series. D

The G A T D is: G. Passage GT A. Automatic Transmission T. Turbo D. Domestic Market (Japanese Market) L. Power Assist Steering Q. Don't know other than it is an option code And 326 is more than likely the colour & B is the trim code Cheers, D

Can I ask some stupid questions on this subject? If it's the leaking of the caliper that is causing this enquiry, why not just put a kit through the caliper unless of course the piston is rusted and pitted?? Your saying parts are available for R31 calipers and not R30, which sounds interesting, because both pistons are the same diameter, so why wouldn't an R31 seal fit the R30 piston when it's the same diameter and for that matter the pistons might be the same as well. Recently I had similar troubles with brakes in my Cressida, brake calipers are out of the donor car UZS131 Crown Majesta where the motor came from and with a bit of searching and measuring, I found I had an 60mm piston and SV21 Camry's also have an 60mm piston, so problem solved. R31 & R30 both share the same size piston 54mm and a caliper kit is only 2 items, the piston seal & dust seal, so I can't see your problem with parts??? Cheers, D

You're going to have to have or put an L seies front housing on it Mags, the VG front housing is lots diferent.

Hey Ben, The radiator information came straight of the R31 manual, but it doesn't say anything about transmission fluid flow. It was a guess on my part as the cooler on my V8 Cressida can flow in either direction. Just as a point of interest, I don't know of any bleed point in any of the Nissan cooling systems I have dealt with so far. I'm not no anything expert in matters R31, so I normally let these questions slide through to the keeper. All is cool.

Your radiator flows in the top and out the bottom, but as for the oil direction I don't know. Having said that you can find out soon enough by running it and see what pipe it comes from and then connect it with the least amount of resistance. Top to bottom again.

I have a set of those ................. 16 x 7 if you want them. Came off a Soarer and are multi drilled. Cheers, D