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Ghostrider

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Everything posted by Ghostrider

  1. Somebody want some locks, I'm sure to have them laying about on one of the doors I have, but any boot lock will do, but as Ben said a locksmith will need to play with it. Cheers, D
  2. At 85000 yen, no matter how it arrives is going to cost you about 25% duty plus freight & commissions etc. If it comes through Import Monster it will cost you about AU$2000.00 minimum. Cheers, D
  3. More money than you have J & more than I'm prepared to spend. I'm looking at 350HP at the wheels from a 2.1L FJ20 and that will be a handful, so why would you even consider what a 2.4 is capable of. D
  4. Another PM sent
  5. I'll take your flares, no offers, I'll pay you $320 including frieght. Skinny dog will be your cheapest option. Cheers, Dennis
  6. PM Sent
  7. MAG's has got it about right. I bought an unregistered one off D-Limo for $3400 and only because it had heaps of goodies I could use on another car. He's pretty much on the dollars though.
  8. All will come out in the wash
  9. J, When do you need these rubber seals for? I'm putting together an order on KRS at the moment and if your interested and can wait till it's done, I'll bring in a set for you in the same carton. Cheers, Dennis
  10. Sure are, brand spankers and it's the only reason I went to the dollars/yen I did. Cheers, D
  11. Buy some real grease for the bearings to, not the shit made by Castrol & others called wheel bearing grease. If you can find a supplier of Mobiltemp 220, buy it, you might have to get 2.5kg which will be enough to last you about 1000 years, but it's great stuff. D
  12. HR31 & S13 hubs go on the DR30 front stub axle if you didn't understand what I meant.
  13. And I paid 60000 yen for these little babies recently. With all of IM's commission & freights, landed they were just under $1150.00 When you just cannot buy them from any Nissan source, how much is to much & to expensive. Cheers, D
  14. The reverse fits, so why not and I think you will find the front bearings are the same. The rears your just going to have to re drill the axle hub which will be the easiest. If your going to take the trailing arm apart to do this, it might be a good idea if you find a set of HR31/Z31 half shafts & inner axle flange. Cheers, D
  15. More than it's worth, but that's nothing new. When it cant be bought, how much is too much?
  16. Try this Jarryd from one of your earlier threads. http://translate.google.com/translate?js=y...sl=ja&tl=en
  17. Try this Jarryd from one of your earlier posts. http://translate.google.com/translate?js=y...sl=ja&tl=en
  18. And D-Limo is about to punt all his ADthree bits off his S1 DR
  19. 250547114389 & 260535063819 Fleebay
  20. Anyone interested in my spare copy of this? Bought it by mistake off Yahoo Japan. Musta had a brain snap. PM me if you are & make an offer. Cheers, D
  21. Answer the message just left or call me as I asked. The offer will not be made to you again! D
  22. I got an F54 block with no engine number, so you can guess what it has now ..................... L20 so I don't need an engineer, but my motor has cost the earth. Ross forged Pistons, Chromoly H Beam rods, ex USA cam, new rockers and springs, vernier cam gear, Kameari Chain & adjustable tensioner, P90 ported head with o/size exh valves, 380 injectors, etc etc etc and an R34 NEO turbo. I'm looking at about 200rwkw & over 600nM torque going out through a modified stumpy gearbox and 3.9 R200 LSD. Should be a fun thing to drive.
  23. The original question was about an L20et Vs an RB conversion? Your right, any replacement engine bigger than 15%, although NSW RTA will allow an L24 replacement as the car came out with it in Aust, will need an engineers report if it is going to be driven on our roads. MAGs comes out with "go the RB" because of costs, and most of us are suggesting staying with the L20et and making it work. I would think, but not having done it, by letting it breath a little, the sky would be the limit with the only restriction being the 2.0L capacity. Maybe an N42 head would help (but need to check valve clearance to deck due to the 79mm bore) maybe change the AFM or do away with it completely and use an a/mkt ECU, or a piggy back to control fuel & ignition, change the turbo to a bigger T03, something a little more modern off the RB20 or 25 maybe, or the non intercooled FJ turbo and all this could be done progressively and not in one big hit. As Stagefummer says 180rwkw is not impossible, as that's 240HP, a big increase on the stock 104Kw at the flywheel. Cheers, D
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