Ghostrider

Your conversion idea has a sh!t load of holes in it! After you buy the engine & gearbox for $1000.00 as you say, you have to fit it to the car??? It doesn't just fall in the engine bay and go. If it's going to be driven on the road it needs to be engineered (minimum $600.00) engine mounts, re engineer the gearbox mount, change the front half of tailshaft just to name a few. It's not as easy as you might think. You talk with big ideas without checking your facts first. Do your homework and things might not go so badly in the future. You don't think I know what it feels like? D

Mag86 wants the L20et parts for his own MR30 L24et conversion and nothing else, to chase exactly what he says he isn't, chasing more power. D

The question was .......................... "Can the L20ET (L20A) block be bored out very far?" And your saying this??? Where do you get your information from??? The L20A block has a 79mm bore and to get 2.9L you will have to have an L28 crank & rods and an 88mm bore. How do you put an 9mm over bore down this block and have cylinders to work with??????? When you want to get cubic inches out of an L series block, you should be specific about what block should be used. The F54 L28et block is not suitable for turbo use past 1.0mm (.040) oversize because the bore is getting thin, but on the other hand, an N42 block can be boosted with an 89mm bore (3.0mm oversize) without any problems, but L24 rods are needed on an LD28 crank and KA24E pistons (or custom forged) with lots of machine work, which makes it an $10~20,000.00 engine build. I would think about 135~140kW would be about the limit of the L20A, but you're going to have to let it breath well and after you have, your better off doing an N42 or F54 L28 rebuild and very good numbers can be got out of these, particularly if you think out of the square. I have said this many times and I'll say it again, "How would you like 500+nM on about factory boost @ 4500rpm" if you think that's impressive, it is easily attainable out of an L28et modification, but you need to be thinking outside of the square. Cheers, D PS .... Your a bit rich mags, tell the guy his L20et is sh!t and then want to buy parts from it ????????????????????????????????

And another on my engine stand, but mine is 2818cc

Budgets aren't a good thing when your working on these old cars. And shops use diamond tipped blades where we have to endure the old carbon steel in hacksaw blades. Instead of the XR cooler you have, have you ever considered a side mount out of an R33 or similar, as 1 of them would flow more HP than your looking at and then cutting huge holes in your radiator support panel wouldn't be necessary. The XR is a bit of overkill don't you think? Cheers, D

Sorry Marc, but as you know, I wasn't alone in Melbourne and you know another on this forum was there as well and all 3 of us got the impression you were really strapped for cash. I do understand there is a greater selection of wheels in 5 stud pattern, but the selection in 4 stud isn't far behind. I guess you have found what your looking for and want to change your hubs to suit. Nothing looks worse than a 20+ year old car with new shite & briny wheels. My idea of these classics is to keep them to the genre they were manufactured in and keep searching till I find what I like in the fashion it has to be. You might think I'm not nice but that's how I see it & on the occassion we met in Melbourne, I wasn't alone. Just as an example, I have about 4 or 5 pairs of hot plate tail lights, but all grey background, yet the PNV had black out of the factory and I just paid 60000 yen on yahoo + all of the domestic + EMS freight & commissions which will end up being about AU$1150.00 delivered to keep the car authentic. I have also bought from Nissan a set of the chrome mouldings that go on the doors & rear window sills. Another AU$600.00, because the originals are damaged, to make the car concourse condition. Cheers, D

Well said Marc, I sent him a PM saying nearly those exact same words with the addition of telling him where an L28et J pipe was available & if he couldn't afford it I would arrange it for him and have it in about 10 days. I'm in a similar position with my PNV only I'm trying to make it concourse and replacing the damaged parts is becoming a pain. As it is, due to a $3600.00 price tag to freight my DR both ways, I'm working on the HR only. I really don't know why the question was asked under the circumstances. Cheers, D

I just bought this on Import Monster as a reference come memorabilia item. Should make interesting reading. http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...%20KPGC110%20S5 D

PM Sent

If I wasn't so committed to the R30's I would be doing something like this. I think these are great things. Keep us all posted on the progress. Cheers, D

Try these on Import Monster, but only 8 hours to go and no bids; http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...&title=DR30 http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...&title=DR30 or these with 3 days to go and no bids; http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...&title=DR30 or these with 4 days to go and no bids; http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...e=M%20DR30%20Dr Cheers, Dennis

When you drained the tank, did you get much crap out of it and did you stick a hose in it and wash it out? When I first brought the purple DR to Sydney, what we got out of the tank was brown and we washed it out with a hose and let it dry out and then fitted a pre filter to be sure what was going into the pump was clean fuel. Works sorta like an intank filter sock. Cheers, D

There is something you all should know about importing parts from Japan. Every shipment must have a value under AU$1000.00 or it will, could attract import duty. I have a carton at the moment being held by Aust Post for customs clearance because it is valued by Import Monster at 85920 yen which converts to about $1100.00. So be warned, anything you buy and have delivered EMS (air) you could fall foul of customs if it's valued at over $1000.00. Cheers, D

Drew, I would be looking at the Fuel Pressure Reg & if that's not the issue try the injectors, but both of these don't explain the lack of fuel at the filter. I had a similar problem with the KHR30 and I fixed it by chucking out both the old fuel pump and pressure regulator. Now it goes like a dream with a 910 copy fuel pump & right angle banjo fittings. The R31 has an in tank pump set up, correct? If this is the go, look at the filter sock on the end of the pump, as todays unleaded fuel turns to nearly acid when it sits for a while and starts eating the fuel tank. The sock might have some rust & shit in it that blocks it up occassionally. Cheers, D

To my knowledge and I can be corrected if I'm wrong, all R33 derivative Skylines were JDM low volume/grey imports. Until the R35GTR I thought the R32GTR was the last Skyline imported by Nissan for domestic sale and it's these cars that were sold by Nissan in Australia that are holding their value. I saw a really nice BNR32 GTR V-Spec up the north last week for just over $20000.00, being sold by Toyshop at Beresfield, just off the end of the F3. Have I got this right? Cheers, D

The F.A.S.T. system should be able to help you and there is any number of people on here that can tell you how to access it on here, but unfortunately I'm not one of them. The car doesn't have the original compliance plates? And maybe if you post this in the right section you might get a better result. This is classics and an R33 is considered a modern car. Cheers, D

I got the point the first time & yes it was and you were also told 2 years ago that the one I had, had a broken illuminator and you declined the offer. Are you still looking for one, because you can have the whole cluster out of my DR for shit, I'll put it in the post tonight if you wish? Maybe you should tell the whole truth and not just selected parts of it that make you feel good & sound like your the guru of understanding? And when else do you get to look at any gauges but when your hurtling along a straight at whatever plus. In my hay day, it was only the straight that you had time to glance at the gauges to make sure everything was doing it's thing. This is why I have a big 50mm red light on the dash of my DR and when/if it comes on, it's foot off the loud pedal and instant shut down no matter where you are. And who ever FOCUSES as you put it on a speedo ANYWHERE and at any time??? Cheers, D

IF ............................... The DR30 now owned by Cazz was clocked on radar down conrod straight at over 280kph, so why would you think another DR isn't capable of 260????????? I think my DR in top spec & tune would be capable of something like it, if I could find a track with a straight long enough to get to it. That aside, it would look really cool eh! Probably a bit more so than the 200kph you wanted to put into yours. Cheers, D

You took the trims off me because you didn't have much money and wanted to stay a bit stockish and now your changing to 5 stud hubs. Something doesn't compute for my money??????? Cheers, D

Paul, You might be interested in these? The left appears ok with a chip out of the right so you could end up with a good set for a little money. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DR30-tailights-RARE...=item3caef398c5 Cheers, D

I wonder who was chasing this on ebay tonight? Interesting final price when you consider mine cost over $500.00 5 years ago. Cheers, D

Datnats looks interesting! I might get both of mine down there for that too. Cheers, D

If you crunch the right numbers and do the research first, most to all of the problems he had will not be there in the first place. eg. Just on the cam & lash pad problem he had: I'm using N42 length valves (ex USA) in my P90 head, but as I'm using a factory reground cam and the core diameter is smaller, the valve length is never going to be an issue. The after market new billets break to easily & therefore a factory re worked cam is by far, much better. The bottom line in any rebuild is DO THE RESEARCH FIRST then you can do the job right the first time. I'm looking at over 600Nm @ about 4500rpm on less than 10psi boost from my L Series. I would like to see the $$$$$ figure getting that from your RB, because I did the research for that some time back as well. Far too many rebuilds have breakage lists and I don't plan on having one of them at all. Cheers, D

Pay the freight, it can't be that expensive. I bought both his guards and I'm picking them up when I'm there for Skynats. You got the trims freight free.

That looks excellent. I don't know about pearl yet, I'm not convinced it's the way to go on a street car, as it's to hard to match if it has to be later. I think it's great that some of our younger generation is rebuilding our classics and not just buying technology off the shelf like my daughter did. And your sticking with the period when choosing your wheels. Nothing worse than an old classic with bling bling bling new wheels. And when you want to think about motors, drop me a line if you want to go efi coz I got the bits hangin around everywhere and they will go to the scrappy unless someone can use them. As for your surprize, as it's #2 I thought you would know what causes it by now. lol Cheers, D