Ghostrider

yep! 375cc hose tail @ 3 bar. RX7 are O'ring and 550cc @ 3 bar. I'm using 380cc hose tail @ 3 bar in my L28et rebuild and 780cc Rochester Delphi (14mm O'ring) in the FJ20et, or maybe 770cc Siemens Deka. Doesn't matter as I have both plus 570cc if I choose to use premium 98/100 octane petrol. Cheers, D

If it had of been a series 2, you would have needed the supplement as well.

What model MR30 do you have? Is it a Series 1 or 2?? Series 1 is 1981/83 and Series 2 is late 1983 (Oct from memory) ~ 1985. Cheers, D

I don't think there is an answer Marc, that's why I chose to go the way I did with it. I have searched the RS JDM brochures I have + S130 n/a & turbo service manuals, R30 service manuals & looked on FJ20.com and they don't give a specific optimum engine running temperature, everything talks thermostat temperatures. It is my understanding in any cooling system, that it wouldn't matter if your radiator was 10ft wide and held 1000L of coolant, it's ultimate operational temperature is controled by the thermostat. The normal standard OEM thermostats operate between 76.5 & 90 degrees C. That's opening at the lower and fully open at the higher temperature and if you want the engine to run hotter, fit a (hotter) later opening thermostat. And remember the boiling temperature is controled by the pressure in the radiator. If you have a stock 0.9 cap, then boiling is going to be about 120 degrees C, but if you have a trick 1.3 cap, then your boiling point will be about 130 degrees C. Does this help? Cheers, D

You ever consider the ambient temperature in Melbourne these days is BLOODY cold. My Cressida at the moment is struggling to get to running temperature due to the ambient air temperature being so low this time of year. If you think your running to cold, change the thermostat for one thing. I think your worrying to much, your not on a race track? D

Is there a speceific reason you would want this information?

And he told me there has been another enquiry on the car. D

He's not obligated to sell anything! I bought a Cressida recently for $1500.00 and the seller wouldn't part with it for less than 2000.00 and ebay did NOTHING about it. And I spoke to him this morning and he was told I was going to part it out. D

I cut a deal with the owner of this vehicle this morning. I was in Canberra with a 2.5 hour lay over between jobs and got a CUA counter cheque drawn for the amount and Andrew (Mag86) offered to take me to the owners place. After some stuffing around and Andrew not having a clue where he was going and no street directory or GPS in his car it was 1542 and to late, so I contacted the owner to make other arrangements. He suggested I post the cheque and I could pick it up on my next days off, BUT! Andrew offered to take the cheque to the owner for me tonight and do the paperwork for me to pick it up next week, BUT! After some discussion between Andrew and the owner, there is no deal and the car is NO LONGER for sale to anybody other than Andrew, when he gets the money, no matter how long it takes. Form your own opinions, but I was not privvy to the conversation and this evening went from a deal set in stone to absolutely ZILCH. Cheers, D

I just PM'd you about this, take a look and get back to me. Cheers, D

I have owned mine since 2002 as it says on the rego label and if I get my way your old car might be headed back to Sydney. Cheers, D

I have an ADAPTRONICS for the new engine, but will run it initially on an L28ET ECU I got from USA. The purple DR has an adaptronics running that and I find it supurb and sh!tloads cheaper than anything else around other than Megasquirt. What I found ith the megasquirt was lack of support in Oz, so I went with this new boy on the block in Ozland. It's designed and built by an ex employee of Autronics and as I said, it's a great ECU. Cheers, D

I can help you out with an FJ crossmember, but it goes further than that. The FJ motor doesn't use the stumpy R30 gearbox & if your going to try to wind up an FJ motor, you best get a bank loan coz your gunna need a new box and they aren't cheap. Your going to need at the very least an R31 RB20DET box, better off with an R32 RB20DET box, but better still, your looking at a modified Z32 box and one of these will set you back about $1500.00 plus modification. If you want some serious poke, do as Mags suggested, do the RB30E conversion & spec it up to GTS2 spec and you will have 140 of the cheapest kilowatts around. The VG30E engine conversion has only been done once that I know of and it wasn't easy at all and I think expensive to boot. Mags suggestion of EFI turbo is easy is partially correct, it's the finding of the parts that are expensive and extremely difficult, as the source is very thin. The people that have the parts are very reluctant to part with them because of their rarety and one day they just aren't going to be available anymore, so they stockpile the parts for Ron. The sky is the limit when your chasing HP, but remember for a road car, it's not shear HP that you want. Torque is the answer and there is no substitute for torque like cubic inches. There are some R31 body kits about in Australia, everyone forgets about FibreMaster at 16 McCormack Street, Arndell Park (Blacktown) they do side skirts & rear wings and other things for local R31 sedans and the dimensions of the Aussie R31 and the R30 are very similar. Cheers, D

I have about 5 of them plus a couple of supplements for the S2 version and Stagefumer is right, it's a lot of pages to go through. D

That's a very good point guys. Maybe you should complete something you start for a change. It's my understanding from people that know you better than I, you have never completed any project you have started. I can tell you, the purple DR you sold me was one of your biggest mistakes and here you're at it again. I made a comment when you bought this latest version, that I would probably end up owning that too and now, if it wasn't for the PNV in ACT going up on ebay, it may have easily been true. Get into it and finish the project you have started and then you will understand first hand what the passion costs. D

I have seen the car in the flesh, so to speak, both under Zebastian & Bill's ownerships. I took a sh!t load of pictures of it when Zeb brought it to the motel we stay at when in Canberra just before he sold it to Bill. I am very aware of it's appearance and the speaker install, I just would have preferred it to be a little more original. Bill has another toy, it's an MR30 sedan with RB20 or 25 up front and he is happy to keep this only. I guess he is trying to sell it, because it doesn't get used anymore. It is carrying ACT plates, but it has no registration to go with it. As I said before, it's been in a shed/garage for the last year doing nothing and if it was a Sunday car, it was annual or Bi annual. Maybe if I own this as well, there might be 2 PNV's going to Adelaide for Skynats??? Cheers, D

I am building an L28et for my car, but no Megasquirt and not cheaper than buying this car. I have spent thousands for the parts to my engine and I'm only going to have 200 odd HP at the wheels, BUT it's the torque I want and I'm going to have something like 600nM which would nearly propel the 1250kg up telegraph poles. D

Stock as a rock L20et as in my Paul Newman does 145PS which equals 106.55 kW which equals 143.01HP @ 5500rpm as opposed to the MR30 Oz delivered L24E doing 93.4kW which equals 125.25HP @ 5600rpm. L20et is still better, but not something to write home about or get all goose bumpy lol D

Bill paid Zeb $5500.00 for this car a couple of years ago, when I was negotiating with Zeb at $4500.00. When I spoke to Bill recently (about 6 months ago), he told me he wouldn't part with it without making a profit and he was a bit set back when I suggested he wont get what he paid for it, because he paid a grand too much for it. Unfortunately, this example has been a bit butchered for supposedly better audio sound, as it has 6.5" speakers in the door pockets and needs some trim pieces that are now virtually impossible to be found, anywhere. The stickers on the car were made by him (had someone print them) and aren't accurate and it has been sitting in his shed for about a year unregistered. I will be bidding on this car, but not to $6500.00 by anymeans. Cheers, D

I would think, if it's only electrical your wanting, the stock MR30 diagrams would be near enough ans as for heater I would suggest same. D

Whatever it costs you! If you want it, you gotta pay for it & I think the one you just bought is going to cost you a bomb to get it up and ready for driving. Give you some idea, I have spent near on 20G's on my 2 cars in last 3 months including purchase of a trailer. So! It's 15G plus as far as I would think. Only problem with that sort of money is, you're NEVER going to recoop it, not ever, these classics are your passion or nothing at all. Cheers, D

And not very good for that either.

Is this a high mount???

I have a small bitch. Last track day at Oran Park I paid my $140.00 and couldn't make it. I'm now in a race to get the car finished, so can I get on the list temporarily till I know more. Cheers, Dennis

You bloody old fart you! lol I bought my first Nissan in September '73 from Capital Motors at Auburn NSW, the very site that is now Reading Cinemas. It was a nice mustard yellow 180B SSS and I bought it because it was quicker than an 240K, not quite as quick as an 240Z until Messrs Ray & Don Selby went to work on it for a week and then no series production 240Z got near it. If I was considering importing a JDM car, or US car, and I wanted a bit of classic & modern together, I would be looking seriously at an M30 Infinity or Leopard. But if you want a modern DR30, go buy an R34. Cheers, D