Ghostrider

What's black about them? Just looks dark red to me?????? D

The PNV has a different radiator mount than your conventional HR or DR for some reason. Mounts vertically on the ends & not face on to the radiator support panel as in most cases I have seen.

I'm getting a custom 3 row alloy radiator made up for the PNV. I don't really care about the cost, as I want the smaller filler neck so I can use the smaller 1.3 caps and I need to have the overflow going to the driver's side so that the intercooler piping can go through the radiator support panel where the overflow bottle is now. With a re vamped 2818cc capacity, I figur the extra cooling capacity wont go to waste. Cheers, D

That's good to say, but unless it was the ducks guts, it would be hard to justify me going to tassy and driving it home. Plus there is my problem of storage owning 2 x DR's, the V8 Cressida & the tow car (Jackaroo). Hard to fit it all in the double garage.

Can do. Off to Canberra this morning, but will when I get back.

Cazz, I have the promo brochure, with the car in 87 livery & it has a picture of the motor including an strut brace. It may be the year befores picture along with engine specs, but why would FG do that. I don't know, you have seen the pics with your car with hot plate tail lights, but was it your car or Gavin's car, because it is Gavin's car that competed up to Sandown and then Bathurst, as I'm led to believe. You have all the records, what does the log book say, when did your car compete prior to the Sandown 500 enduro that GF won.

To what gain in a Khanacross car that lives in the dirt & mud? L24E rated @ 94kW & RB30E rated @ 114kW A lot of effort for 20kW and probably only about 12 by the time it gets to the wheels. If it was me, I would be looking at lower diff ratios, rather than more HP, maybe an 4.9:1 or similar like the front diff on an 720 ute. On dirt, your friendly arc welder would be better than an LSD and or L20ET gearbox, as it has lower ratio 1, 2, 3. The good part about gearing is, nobody is ever going to know, as the bits look the same to the eye. Cheers, D

Exactly my point! Have you got video footage of this car other than at Bathurst, because I have The Great Race Turbolent Era DVD & The Great Race 1987 video and I cant see this car in anything other than Oz delivered S2 tail lights. And the promo brochure for the '87 #30 car shows it with a front strut brace. Cheers, D

Great work! Thank you for this, I'll just let whoever has bid on it have it. I was considering flying to Tassie and driving it back to Sydney, but you just saved me the time & effort. Cheers, D

Darryl, We commonly refer to coilovers as being multi height adjustable as well See Pic 2 JIC. That is wind them up & down to suit your need, but a standard factory set up in the MR/HR/DR30 rear is only height adjustable with a/mkt shocks with multiple slots for the spring circlip that holds up the spring seat. And the Koni shocks & insetrs are only compression adjustable and the rebound sorts itself out from the adjustment. They have about 2 turns in the adjustment and have to be done before assembly with the spring. As nothing has been said about what he has, I'm guessing he has a stock set up & really needs the Koni front insert, p/n 86-2224 for his stock struts and puts whatever springs he chooses with them. D

Didn't say the rear was an INSERT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Fark it ................ why do I bother with idiots

Do you have rear coil overs or standard shocks? The stock rears have the spring over the shock, but they are not coil overs as such. You can buy Koni inserts for your stock struts & they are internally adjustable. Cheers, D

What's wrong with adjustable Koni's for the front too? Your rears ............. internally or externally adjustable? Cheers, D

Wasn't your car an all new car, built for the 1987 Bathurst enduro? I am of the belief the car Gavin now has, was campaigned in the ATCC of 1987 by George Fury. Hence both carrying the same number & livery. The early footage you speak of, was the #30 car that Gavin now owns??????? I will check my videos and DVD's to be sure of the 86 & 87 seasons. Cheers, D

Why would you want a 3" exhaust on your L24E? Even if it's turbo'd it's too big. Remember quality is better than size when it comes to exhaust and an n/a needs a certain amount of back pressure to work, but an turbo exhaust needs none.

Cazz, I'm not knocking the interest, as I think it's a great thing and without the younger generations getting involved with these classic cars they are going to die off and become simply museum pieces, which wont be good at all for anything. I just don't have the awesome interest as I have been following these cars for some time. I first got a Nissan in September 73, it was an 180B SSS and after it was out of warranty, it spent a week with Ray & Don Selby at Planthurst Rd Carlton setting it up for series production and have followed them ever since. My 24yo daughter has already put her hand up for my cars when I'm dedd, but only as memorabillia because she drives the modern works & jerks. Wasn't happy with the Nissan dad gave her. If you need parts for your toy, drop me a line, PM preferrably as I don't part with them easily. My comment when you were talking lights still stands, it never came out with the hotplates from my sources, as it was campaigned in Oz, so why change it. Aussie lights are easy to find in any pick a part type wrecker. Cheers, D

That might qualify you for near fossil status ........... 43 on this forum? lol But you, like myself is a minority here. I agree with you, since the release of the 180B SSS in 1972 the Nissan line up has been fairly ordinary, compared to what was being sent o/seas from Japan. Even the 200B SSS was just a 2 door version of the sedan. It had no performance enhansement like it's predecessor. When Nissan ceased local production and went to 100% imports I thought we might have got some of their more exotic vehicles, but that wasn't to be. Thanks to what is referred to as grey imports, we now get some of the performance and others in the line up. D

Mmmmmmmmmm interesting. Forgive me if you can, for me not getting into raptures of awesome & freakin awesome, but most of these comments are coming from persons that probably never saw these cars on the track, as they would have to be about 40 years old. Yours finished it's career 23 odd years ago which would make them 17 at the time. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly sure this car has been for sale before, maybe a couple of years ago, as I think it was on Powerplay's site for sale. As your aware I have been an avid follower of these cars from when they first appeared back in I think, late 1985. I know the 15 car that Glenn Seton campaigned in, is in a long term restoration to bring it back to original and it would be nice to see the other #30 car in original livery and as homoligated, not in it's present form. I know if I owned it, it would be that way, but the present owner wants far to much money for it, to do this. My problem is space for any other cars & I'm not hiring a factory to store them in. I hope you & everyone understands my thoughts on the matter. Something off topic, but I wish someone would tell me what the $145.00 early bird buys me for the nationals in September. I have all my accommodation booked and have had for some time, even Mildura for an o/niter on the way. I have sent a couple of messages to administrators of the nationals site and had no replies. Cheers, D

But they not bigger or by enough last I looked at the DBA site. D

J, The clear over grey are DR S2 and the all over red (S1), the second pic, the ones you want don't draw to much attention so you should get them cheaper, but finding them in good nick is going to be your problem. If the ones you show were available, I would have bid on them and try to find a match later. Cheers, D

Where you get this startling piece of information from? You found this on the back of your Corn Flakes packet I presume???????????? And the S1 all over red that shine hot plate are worth diddly squat, yet the S2's are worth whatever someone is prepared to pay for them. I recently bought a pair of S2's in from Japan for a person that shall remain nameless and they cost me about $300 delivered and they were in mint condition. Be aware that the S2 lights, don't fit straight up into an S1 like you have Jarryd, they fit in the same hole, but the wiring connections are different. Other than what you currently have (all red) I'm sure you will find the grey background/clear covered come from S2 DR & the black background/clear covered come from S2 HR & MR JDM vehicles and these go for AU$250 - $400. Cheers, D

Mighty fine car you have. Any reason why your not using the 17" Castalloy rims & brake discs Cazz? D

Front brakes are easy. Use modified VT Dunnydore, cost all up about $100.00 2nd hand, or Hilux 4 spots and maybe Z32 rotors. D

DERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! Why would you have a need for a STRUT BRACE when you have a full cage welded into the car???????????????????????????????? Show some intelligence Carolyn, or do you think we are just a bunch of hicks on this forum. Saying what you have shows your lack of respect. At least you don't own or have bought the abortion Gavin Strongman has. "Why do you ask about tail lights?" If you have the Australian S2 tail lights as I think the car has, it is how it finished it's racing career, or do you plan on having a bastard like your mate Gavin?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? D