dished33

Ok man i did a manual conversion on a s13 180sx and this is what was needed: Gearbox, ensuring it comes with clutch fork Tailshaft, clutch pedalbox, master cylinder and slave cylinder and the hydraulic hose to join the two up, clutch kit with new release bearing and spigot bush/bearing machined flywheel flywheel bolts ensure you have the correct amount of bell housing bolts gearbox oil gearknob and trim for gearstick A brake pedalbox should also be a preffered inclusion as the you have correct pedal setup but we did just cut the auto one down as a cheaper option I would prefer the manual diff as the ratios are shorter and make it drive the way it should from factory as in the 180 the auto diff is two high geared and creates problems with lag and general driveability The auto computer can be used but if so the inhibitor/selector switch must be taken off the auto and placed somewhere, preferably in the engine bay and switched into the position of park or neutral so the engine will start, can be used as a handy immobiliser haha.. the dash light may come on for the auto or the power switch may flash with the auto ecu as it will register diagnostic codes The reverse lights have to be wired into the reverse swith on the gearbox instead of the inhibitor/selector switch When you first drive the car the gearbox will most likely be noisy as they sit around for a long time without oil in them but does go quiet after some driving, reccomend changing the oil in gbox after about 1000km to get rid of any shit from the gearbox you will need drill bits and preferably a metal holesaw to cut firewall for clutch master cylinder to fit through thats about all i can think of man just a guide hope it is of some use to you, have fun!

Hi, i have encountered this problem at work before and its possibly a slave cylinder fault, subarus have a very known problem with the slave cylinders causing these exact type of symptoms... make sure your clutch master cylinder rod length is adjusted properly just like rbsilvia said and it should be better as there is probably too much pressure on the master cylinder at the moment, loosening it off should definatley help... hope it works taiphan

the temp sensor is on the coolant inlet to the head where the radiator hose connects, its the slighly bigger sensor... best way to check it is to pull it out, get it sitting in some water over the stove with a thermometer and using a multimeter check the resistance across the terminals of the sensor... you cant do it in the car unless you check it when its cold then when it warms up, but the plug must be disconnected and engine not running... if it doesnt change when its hot then it will have to be replaced

No problem man good to hear you found out what was happening!

I'll also vouch for the car, i live in newcastle and ive seen what it can do.... to be honest id almost sell my r33 for this car... so cheap... good luck with the sale man

Hey man that problem could be many things really but the one that covers many catagories is the coolant temp sensor, if its ok cold, then when warm if disconnecting the plug off the iac valve drops the high idle then that shows it is trying to compensate for the temp it is being supplied... probably saying the engine is cold still, which means the mixture will be very rich causing very hard to rev and idle is increased... you should check the resistance as the engine warms up of the sensor and see if it changes... should decrease... anyway thats just my thought it happens at work a bit.... good luck man

Definatley probe down the back of the plugs man... unfortunatley without a wiring diagram its gonna be hard to follow the circuit without ripping your car to pieces... better off starting at the globes themselves and working you way back...

Hey man you may possibly be looking at a relay or maybe even the light swithch/stalk itself.... do your rear tail lights still work when switching the parkers on?... if so then its unlikely the switch and u can concentrate more on wiring, relays or even just contacts somewhere... sometimes seemingly unrelated components are on the same circuit and can be causing the problem... its just different that you havent blown a fuse... good luck with it man

pm sent again... my internets been stuffing up to sorry man

Hi everyone, just put my pod filter back on today and found a large quantity of oily gritty shit in the turbo inlet pipe and slightly on the AFM as well, any ideas on what could cause?

Hey man i'll take your airflow meter if its operational, i'll pm u anyway...