central coast person

i know of the guy. He was on holidays so that's probably why the car was sitting for so long.

I just saw the 10.5 LMGT4 come up on facebook. Messaged you straight away haha, i want them so bad...

hmm hopefully I can come, I live 2 minutes away so that suits. Any E85 is only 50 meters up the road if anyone needs it

Are the pods on the quarter genuine? If so what's your chances of getting them off undamaged? Cheers, Andrew

short answer... No. You need to change the front reinforcement. And even after doing that the car will look out of place if you don't do the other series 2 parts because the bumper will sit 5-10mm further in than the series 1 headlights. To do it properly you also need Bonnet + latch Front Guards Headlights Grille I think your better off buying a Series 1.5 bar or its also called a series 1 M-spec bar

Yeah looks to be factory Xenons have been left in. You might be better off buying a set of 2 D2R's if your a fussy person like me, because there will be a very slight difference in colour output for the older bulb. Maybe as small as 100-200K but noticeable enough for some people.

Check under the headlight itself. There will be a ballast under the headlight bolted to a bracket, you will be able to tell if its a genuine one or not easily.

Remove the RC and sand them for 15 min each with 1000Grit wet and dry then same with a 2000Grit. After that get a good metal polish, I bought some German made one that was about $20 for a tube and i hand polished it for ages but if you use a drill with a polish tool on the end or a Rotary tool "dremil" it ends up way better. Mine are only hand polished and to keep them in good nick you would need to every 12-24 months re polish. Apart from that I bought a lot of stuff new in the engine bay as you can see. I always wanted a titanium intake pipe but its just too expensive to serve no purpose other than look good.

Your lights are factory Xenon's (Note the wording on your lens). On my r33 GTR xenons you can't just twist the cover off you need to get the security torx screw off or the cap will just hit the head of the screw. Same story for r34 lights. The security torx size is a T20 They need to be there because if you manage to zap yourself it will hurt, there are about 10,000V-20,000V to zap you with. Previous owner would have just bought a cheap bulb off ebay not a HID kit because your xenons are factory fit. A proper bulb will cost you about $300+ for the pair and make sure you disconnect the headlight electrical connector when you change the bulb

That's after 5 years and 42000KM since rebuild. I haven't paid any attention to the car since i got my GTR I will probably give it a clean and re polish with a Dremil soon

I'll post some up hopefully this week

Use genuine rubber hoses, the silicone ones are very cheap and are fine for intercooler and intake piping but often get pin hole leaks when you use them for coolant. When I had my engine out the block was acid dipped then bored 40thou, honed and decked then sprayed black. All new welsh plugs and every hose in the engine bay with a new genuine part (coolant, fuel, vac and blow by), had the sump (acid dipped), head rebuilt and cleaned and the intake manifold. Then replaced all the bolts and studs on the engine with new genuine ones, new coil pack cover, polished the rocker covers like a mirror (paint flakes or chips of easy) and added an alloy radiator and extractors heat wrapped. I made it look good as new with the exception of the alloy parts, a pod filter and extractors. That's as good as its going to get with a N/A

Yeah series 1 came with fog lights and indicators but series 1.5 didn't come with it. If you put a series 1.5 into Nissan fast they they come as an accessory for them and it came with new indicators, a relay and a new stalk. OP maybe you want to check if you need the to put the relay into the fuse box? Im pretty sure there is a section provided to put a relay for fog lights I never had a clue, that's pretty cool. But i never get calls to look sedan parts up anway

Apart from the obvious structural differences, the only wiring difference is when hooking up the indicator/fog light. They have a different connector to the series 1.5 harness's as it only has a indicator on the bumper in a series 1.5 without a fog light. Not an indicator/fog light like the series 2 so you have to chop and swap the plugs. That being said you have a T10 wedge bulb fitted into the bulb holder in your picture and no r33 uses a wedge bulb for an indicator they all use bayonet bulbs, except the GTR. The bulb holder looks like the one on a GTR so it may have had the GTR indicators installed at a time.

I've put a new fuel sender in the tank and it hardly changed. The light doesn't come on until the needle goes just past the 'E' it's about 10L left when your needle drops about 1mm under the 'E' on the factory gauge. Best only do that if you need to change a fuel pump.

My GTR making 420Kw at the Wheels couldn't do damage. The first thing to go would be the input shaft in the gearbox. I doubt you will break anything as its too under powered to. I do know the whole rear setup on the GTS-4 has nothing to do with a GTR the driveshafts are 5 bolt design and not the stronger 6 bolts like the GTR but they still wouldn't brake. In fact the only part on the drive train that shares the same things as a GTR are only the front driveshafts, and transfer case. The suspension is even worse, the whole rear cross member, hubs, knuckles and struts are different. No Hicas from factory aswell, only about 20% of the car is like a GTR. Spent about $7,000+ on a Engine rebuild making it 40thou using only genuine parts everywhere About another $10,000 on better Exedy clutch, Greddy coilovers, nismo control arms, Genuine Driveshafts new, all new power steering pump, rack and lines genuine, slotted rotors.... load more things to the car and its still my daily because thats all they will ever be. You can't even Turbo the car if you want to without tapping the block unlike the RWD models that have blanking bolts in the side of the block where the turbo oil feed and coolant feed come from on the GTS-t. Also easiest car to get parts for as 90% of the parts are still available through Nissan, (could choose what size pistons and rings i wanted from Nissan even), Clutch & drivetrain, most suspension components, brakes and whole steering system all using new genuine parts from Nissan. All body parts the same as GTS-t so obviously even easier to get body parts new for. Although front guards for GTS-t are NLA now. Only reason i know all this stuff is i worked for Nissan Parts and got it all at cost Also i get 100Km 12.5L around town and 9L to 100Km on the highway I stopped and saved when i couldn't turbo my car, Got a GTR, Forged engine, built head, port and polish everything 0-100Km in less then 3 sec on reliable tune

+1 Do not use Redlines shockproof oil in a good gearbox and in a street car it can make the gearbox worse. MT90 is perfect for it

I would never know if the NA ecu would work so lucky you have a DET ecu. Yeah i wouldnt go any bigger than that intercooler. Not to much is missing. You just need to buy a stand alone boost controller. greddy profec is the best value. You could use a Non turbo ECU if you wanted to because the boost controller is stand alone

If you use a Greddy intake manifold on stock boost it wouldn't make as much power as it would when using the stock intake manifold. The runners are to short on the Greddy manifold and you need to run around 18PSI+ to make a gain as it would be very laggy. Also running stock boost on a 'BIG' FMIC will be worse for you even if you used a stock intake manifold off a DET. i wouldn't bother, just get a stock intake manifold and intercooler, or a small FMIC. Stock RB25DE ECU will stall the engine when under boost and i dont know if they are compatible with a Emanage. A NISTUNE would be a lot better, You need to get the Nistune RB20DET ECU for a RB25DE series 1 engine or a Z32 ECU for a RB25DE series 2 engine. Again use stock injectors off RB25DET if you make 300HP+ which you wont, then upgrade to the 555CC injectors nismo make

I've noticed there are only half the amount of skylines I used to see around. Also Carsales used to have around 220-240 R33's in 2008 (when I was buying) to check out and now its down to 150-170 Doesn't seem to matter what skyline it is I get a lot of likes in my GTS-4 as much as I do in the GTR. The GTS-4 is badly rusted and dinged on all panels (daily) and the GTR is a mint 420kWaw machine with no dings...

My girlfriend and i are out for tonight. The GTR was in an accident last night and has light damage on the RH front guard/bumper and a medium damage on the RH rear quarter panel smashing the tail light My fault because of the debris on the road lastnight with the weather. So angry, should be fixed by next meet i hope

Sounds like a good night, may be a a little late coming down from the Central Coast but finish work at 5pm so i should have enough time to get there

hopefully will be ok. Just send my membership through now....

Nismo ..... My GTR has 420KW at all four with no problems and its as easy to drive as my GTS-4 single plate