central coast person

Got it in my GTS-4 Have all my fluids changed too redline and break and clutch motul but never changed attessa because the GTS-4 locks on request

Hope it does it took me 2 hours too write haha

Its inbetween 7-8L (cant remember) you dont need 5L because you have too mix is with demineralised water. I suggest 4L or less of LLC and the rest demineralised water too get a 50\50 min or less. To much coolant and you wont be helping your engine cool at all.

Yeah i should have explained myself better. Nengun sold it for $2,518 delivered and it came with a easy too do wiring diagram. Nissan japan would wire it for r34 owners but in Australia it was harder too get it wired This jap site has the wiring diagram http://www.hkskylineclub.com/new/forum_pos...3160&KW=MFD

I ended up doing a DIY on the front and rear diff oil change. I had no problem with 3 of the 4 bungs its just the filler on the rear diff was so stuck, I doubt it had been changed before and heat it and using a Giant 3 meter long piece of wood to leaver the handle of the rachet up was enough too crack the seal and then it was a two man job to spin it 10 times too losen it enough to spin of with the rachet normaly ............... just seems like a 1 hour process is a bit anoying to take a bung plug off, but atleast its off an back on the way it was sapose to be EDIT: i would have gotten a air gun but the exhaust is like 2inches away from the bung plug so its simply a rachet job and breaker bar ...... or breaker wood

Im Almost positive its injectors because it does it when its warm. When you put the ignition on it pressureises a fuel system by priming the pump and the discription fit because i think one of the injectors is leaking heavily when he pressurises the fuel system

yeah you have too get a pressure test done on the injectors (anyone who cleans them professionaly should also pressure test them aswell). He will need $2900 if he wants too do it at home http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ultrasonic-Fuel-Inj...=item3ef625efed There are cheepo ways of doing it but dont risk blowing yourself up by fiddling with the fuel rail and ignition (a lot of americans have DIY for that )

its for the cold start regulator

i get 600km out of my 65L and thats between coastal driving (light traffic) and some old pacific highway driving

Are you sure an injector(s) is not leaking. I too have this but my car must sit for about 12 hours before anything like the shudder only because my leak is so small at the moment. If it happens all the time it must be a bad leak! The ACC probily wont have a thing too do with it because if it was falty it would continue too do it rather than stop after you accelerate. The only other thing i can think of is the cold start regualtor (under the stock throtle body) that may need a clean if the vavle is sticking. But my 2 cents are with the injectors

i guess no one on the central coast is this illegal haha. Never seen one yet

its the heater unit. i found this thread so you can see exactly what you are looking for and what is leaking. It will be the mini radiator looking thing and is very common for leaking and also hard too get too. Your going too have too break the holder of the radiator if you want to change it without taking the whole dash out and secure it in after its changed so it wont move or take it out removing the WHOLE dash In the mean time you will have too bypass the two hoses (heater hoses) running into the firewall if you want to be safe, and make sure no one turns the heater on if you do not want too bypass the hoses. http://www.tygarbyte.com/Skyline%20Heater%20Core.php

Man it was for sale about 2 weeks ago on Ebay......

There is no point in doing this without a piggy back ECU or some sort of power FC device. Your gains will be un-noticed as you really need to tune it too put a bit more fuel in with that bit more air for atleast somthing.......10kw at the most A naturally asperated engine will more suit indvidual throttle bodys per cylinder, larger injectors, fuel pump and regulator all running off map sensors. Thats the only way to notice a good gain

hey just wondering if the rear seat belts are nissan and not killpan, slso the buckle point. Is the gear surround a S1? (does it have a squishy feel or is it a rough surface?)

Yeah its a stock thing, Its 2 brackets attached too the chassis and one on the bottom attached too the bar. The one on the bar is unscred and then you lift the plate up so you can take the rear bar off without taking the unber plate off (works a treat if you have locking number plate screws)

Nissan offered it as a optional feature for all r34's (obiously came with the GTR). The wiring would be A1

Cheers Well as you can see my oil was very old. I dont think its been done before because my bung plugs looked like they had not been touched unlike my gearbox ones where you can see markings. Because its a LSD it will need a ticker oil (80w-140 or 85w-140) oppose too SAE90 or 70w-90 gear and differential oils which are the thinner based oils for more standard diffs. The only thing about 80w-140 is its synthetic and 85w-140 is mineral so your probily going too have too use 80w-140 if you really want a good oil. Redline is used in 600KW car without a problem, same with nulon and motul so there are a few brands too choose from. EDIT: when using a mineral oil or even some syntheticsl you need too add a product called nulon N70. It has polytetrafluoroethylene which some oils have (Redline 80w-140 and Nulon 80w-140 or 75w-140 from Motul) you will have to contact the manufactuer about there 80w-140 too make sure.

Well if the r32 is the same then im going too say both diff's used from the r32 and r33-r34 should mean this applies too all the LSD's used by skylines

ADMIN please move as my first 2 times posting would not work and the third try it ended up here in car audio & security somehow

DIY Disclaimer: This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia or any affiliates be held accountable for following said actions, causing damage or harm to you or your car. Aim: To change front and rear differential fluids. Most skylines have very old fluids in there diffs and need changing and will do wonders as Nissan diffs seem to get very loose around the 100,000km mark. Changing fluid will help tighten your LSD up without going into the shiming process. Car: The model i did this on was a r33 series 1.5 GTS-4. It counts for all r33 and r34 LSD equiped skylines. Im not sure about r32 as i have not had the chance too look but i presume it too be the same. Any questions about your model i wil try an answer as i have mates cars that i can refrence too. Difficulty and time: Low - Medium (depending on how stuck your bung plugs may be). It can take from 30min - 2hours (again depending on the bung plugs. Materials/Equipment Needed: You will need - 1/2" ratchet as this is the size for the bung plugs - 80w-140 Gear oil (My bottle was roughly 3.9L and i had about a liter left) - Transfer pump or 2 Meters or tubing and a funnel. Tape the funnel around the tubing and poor it in while the funnel is higher than the filler hole in the diff - Oil catch tub (Things that will help you that bit extra) - Rags - Trolley jack - Car stands - Extention bar - WD40 - Warm car Tips 1). Best go for a 15 min drive to heat the diff up a bit. The drive does not make the car hot underneath orthe diffs but if you have a stainless steel or titanium exhaust system the tight space may make things a little hot around the rear diff filler hole. Just get a rag and wrap that section of the exhaust where the bung plug sits too the right off. 2). When taking the plugs off, always remove the filler hole first as it can leave you in tuff situations if you cant get it off or thread the plug. 3). It helps if you have a spare person on hand if your not using stands. Two people can use force on the rachet, one pulls the other pushes. I didnt use stands so used the 'technique' for one of the plugs as the exhaust most likely heated it up to the point of it feeling like it had been welded on. 4). Stands will allow you too use breaker bars and extention bars if your a one man army and it saves you a lot of time and swearing. Step By Step: THE REAR LSD 1). Firstly get some WD40 and spray the rear diff bung plugs and let ot soak in. You can also tap them around Picture of drain bung on rear diff, spray with WD40. Picture of filler bung on rear diff, spray with WD40 2). Now crack the plugs.................. First the filler plug, then the drain plug Picture of filler bung plug on rear diff. You can see the tight fit it was with my exhaust system only being a few inches away. It took me about an hour to break the seal on this plug as i would asume the exhaust heat helped it practly weld itself too the thread. This is where i used my 'technique'. Once thats cracked, move onto the drain hole. Picture of drain plug. It was simple to crack this one. Make sure you have your oil tub under it too catch the oil that comes out. 3). Now let the oil drain for a few minutes. Mine was definatly past its used by date and was also very thin which concerned me. In the mean time check your drain plug for metal. Mine was fairly clean with the plug only having mercury fine metal shavings on it and one small metal piece no bigger than 2mm. 4). Now you put the drain plug in and go get your bottle of oil and transfer pump or funnel pipe thingy and simply fill the diff from the filler hole. You want too keep filling it untill the oil starts too trickle from the filler hole. Once it starts too trickle have your filler plug on stand by. Thats simply the rear diff done. It was about 1.6L front is a bit less THE FRONT DIFF 1). Firstly get some WD40 and spray the front diff bung plugs and let ot soak in. You can also tap them around You can see the top one in green and the bottom one in yellow. They are simple too get too, on the driver side of the sump and come off with force. 2). - 4). (Simply refer too the steps of the rear diff as its the same just in different and easier location. The diff took 1.2L of oil.) It should look like this while filling) All up it helped me keep my rear diff locking and in good condition. I assume all skyline would have the bung plugs in a fairly similar position and if so thats all you need too know. This topic is designed to help people with knowing what look for and the r33's and r34 use the same LSD and the r32 are hopefully very similar. Hope this helps you and any questions just leave them here or PM me. Central Coast Person

Disclaimer: This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia or any affiliates be held accountable for following said actions, causing damage or harm to you or your car. Aim: To change front and rear differential fluids. Most skylines have very old fluids in there diffs and need changing and will do wonders as Nissan diffs seem to get very loose around the 100,000km mark. Changing fluid will help tighten your LSD up without going into the shiming process. Car: The model i did this on was a r33 series 1.5 GTS-4. It counts for all r33 and r34 LSD equiped skylines. Im not sure about r32 as i have not had the chance too look but i presume it too be the same. Any questions about your model i wil try an answer as i have mates cars that i can refrence too. Difficulty and time: Low - Medium (depending on how stuck your bung plugs may be). It can take from 30min - 2hours (again depending on the bung plugs. Materials/Equipment Needed: You will need - 1/2" ratchet as this is the size for the bung plugs - 80w-140 Gear oil (My bottle was roughly 3.9L and i had about a liter left) - Transfer pump or 2 Meters or tubing and a funnel. Tape the funnel around the tubing and poor it in while the funnel is higher than the filler hole in the diff - Oil catch tub (Things that will help you that bit extra) - Rags - Trolley jack - Car stands - Extention bar - WD40 - Warm car Tips 1). Best go for a 15 min drive to heat the diff up a bit. The drive does not make the car hot underneath orthe diffs but if you have a stainless steel or titanium exhaust system the tight space may make things a little hot around the rear diff filler hole. Just get a rag and wrap that section of the exhaust where the bung plug sits too the right off. 2). When taking the plugs off, always remove the filler hole first as it can leave you in tuff situations if you cant get it off or thread the plug. 3). It helps if you have a spare person on hand if your not using stands. Two people can use force on the rachet, one pulls the other pushes. I didnt use stands so used the 'technique' for one of the plugs as the exhaust most likely heated it up to the point of it feeling like it had been welded on. 4). Stands will allow you too use breaker bars and extention bars if your a one man army and it saves you a lot of time and swearing. Step By Step: THE REAR LSD 1). Firstly get some WD40 and spray the rear diff bung plugs and let ot soak in. You can also tap them around Picture of drain bung on rear diff, spray with WD40. Picture of filler bung on rear diff, spray with WD40 2). Now crack the plugs.................. First the filler plug, then the drain plug Picture of filler bung plug on rear diff. You can see the tight fit it was with my exhaust system only being a few inches away. It took me about an hour to break the seal on this plug as i would asume the exhaust heat helped it practly weld itself too the thread. This is where i used my 'technique'. Once thats cracked, move onto the drain hole. Picture of drain plug. It was simple to crack this one. Make sure you have your oil tub under it too catch the oil that comes out. 3). Now let the oil drain for a few minutes. Mine was definatly past its used by date and was also very thin which concerned me. In the mean time check your drain plug for metal. Mine was fairly clean with the plug only having mercury fine metal shavings on it and one small metal piece no bigger than 2mm. 4). Now you put the drain plug in and go get your bottle of oil and transfer pump or funnel pipe thingy and simply fill the diff from the filler hole. You want too keep filling it untill the oil starts too trickle from the filler hole. Once it starts too trickle have your filler plug on stand by. Thats simply the rear diff done. It was about 1.6L front is a bit less THE FRONT DIFF 1). Firstly get some WD40 and spray the front diff bung plugs and let ot soak in. You can also tap them around You can see the top one in green and the bottom one in yellow. They are simple too get too, on the driver side of the sump and come off with force. 2). - 4). (Simply refer too the steps of the rear diff as its the same just in different and easier location. The diff took 1.2L of oil.) It should look like this while filling) Hope this helps anyone wanting too chage there diff oil. Im not too sure about the r32's because i know they do have a different PartNo. for the diff but i would presume all skylines would have the bung plugs near the same position on most differentials. Any questions just PM me. Created by Central coast person

To anyone doing this i advise going for the 15min drive too heat things up a bit, once thats done its a job for to guys. I held the rachet ontop while my dad held it on the bottom and we both pulled it and it slowly budged and so on and on. Basicly need a lot of force too get these things off......

fair enough. I might go take it for a 15min drive and heat the diff up and then try it that way first. If its not hot enough then ill heating it up with the butane torch =\ Hopefuly i can keep it away from the mechanics haha just dont trust them with my bottle of redline Thanks Duncan!!!

For the last hour i have been trying to crack the filler plug for the rear diff and am getting no where. Ive covered it in WD40 and that wont help it slip all it did was make the rachet slide out of the bung plug and strip it a bit. You can see the top one tucked behind the exhaust pipe. I dont want too try anymore till i can get some advice on this plug The rear is easy too get too but its not worth trying to break it if i cant get the filler plug off Help please!!!