central coast person

yes, try using your hazards and they will blink at normal rate (even if you ever did have a bulb out). You should look into the wattage of the bulb first and secondly make sure that the wireing is not twist and tape and is terminals in heat shrink or somthing similar.

r33: August 1993 to 1995 GTS Sedan 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS Sedan 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type G Sedan 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type G Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M active LSD specification Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential November 1993 to 1995 GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential January 1995 to 1996 GTS Sedan 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS Sedan 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type G Sedan 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS urban runner Coupe 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS urban runner Coupe 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS urban runner S Coupe 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS urban runner S Coupe 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type G Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type G SE Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type G Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M active LSD specification Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Sedan 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 type G Sedan 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 type G Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential January 1996 to 1997 GTS Coupe 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS Coupe 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS Sedan 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS Sedan 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type S Coupe 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type S Coupe 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type S Sedan 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type X Sedan 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type S/S Sedan 2498cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type S/S Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5MT - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type X Sedan 2498cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25t type M active LSD specification Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * I Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * I Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * I Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * I Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * II Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * II Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * II Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M specifications * II Sedan 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Sedan 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 type X Sedan 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 type X Sedan 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential February 1997 to 1998 GTS Coupe 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS Coupe 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type S Coupe 1998cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS type S Coupe 1998cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 4AT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25 type S Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FR - Optional Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 4AT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS25t type M active LSD specification Coupe 2498cc Petrol Turbo 5MT FR - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 4AT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential I made this table of all the r33's that nissan put out exclusing the GTR. All r33's were given the option of a LSD and some just came with it so any r33 has the chance of it being there.

Your 4WD light shouldnt come on unless there is a fault with the ATTESSA system (all gts-4's run the same drivetrain as a GTR, you have a LSD. It all runs off the ECU in your boot which is the ATTESSA ECU, seperate too a normal ecu)

You need to take the cheep fuel out of your tank to get your car going. Skylines cannot have this crap fuel in them unless all the seals in the fuel system have been changed too handle these types of fuel. The fuel is simply 98octane if the car is set too run stock fuel. What has happened as when you were driving with the cheap fuel in there the seals in the fuel system have swolen up and restricted fuel flow. Thats why you slowly got power loss and when you came too idle the drop in fuel pressure was enough for the fuel supply too cut off and stall the car. I have seen this exact problem you are describing many times with skylines and a 300zx so i can say go ahead too fix it

in regards to "re-compressing your motor" you will need to change the pistons to a flat top design opose too the dome design that turbo's use (Pull the engine apart which is time consuming and money wasing in your position) also there is changing the ecu etc etc, if you want it too be faster than just taking the turbo out. If you did leave it the same minus a turbo it will be fast as a n excel....... Best of saving for a turbo skyline if you want one this bad

Simply just too big for a stock engine doing everday driving

The best thing you can do to your non turbo engie being a P plater is go out and get some essentials (carby cleaner-throttle body cleaner, lube spray, electrical connector and wire cleaner, WD40, Wire dryer ETC ETC ETC) Buy some automotive tools if you dont have some etc etc -Change air filter -Change oil filter -Change fuel filter -Change engine oil with an oil flush (try changing to a full synthetic such as nulon which is about $150 less than a redline oil usually $50 at automotive stores) -Change gearbox oil -Change diff oil -Change brake oil -Change Clutch oil -Change coolant with a system flush before -Total fuel system cleaner is 28 times more concentrated than a injector cleaner so spend your money there and it will do the best job on the place you cant reach without pulling an engine apart -Clean throttle body (spray the hell out of it with carby cleaner and wipe down) -Clean the AAC (IACV) (spray the hell out of it with carby cleaner and wipe down) -Clean the Cold start valve -Change sparkplugs -Go around and pull all your electrical plugs out, from headlights and brake lights - throttle position sensor and O2 sensor. Clean all conections with an electrical contact cleaner and wire cleaner on the wires in the engine bay such as earth wires (will be very time consuming ) -Clean all sensors E.G. your radiator sensors may be gooped up if oil has ever come into contact with the coolant, O2 sensor can become conjested with carbon so carby cleaner can get rid of that -Change all your relays and fuses that are not working (using a test light you will see if there is a current passing through or not) -Test all your sensors with a multimeter providing you know what volts, resistance etc you are looking for. This will determine if any sensors are dead or not up to scratch (Read next line for other option) -You can also have Nissan diagnostics scan tool pluged into your car (or even buy the CD and plug online) too read out any errors that may be present and you can also have your timing set, air/fuel ratio mixtures adjusted and a few more things (this is best as it will read all sensors too and give accurate readings). This test is really the last thing you will have too do as it will read your whole car and you will be able too tell things like the volts in your battery or even shut down the spark too a cylinder. When it reads 'error code: 58' you dont have any errors in your car and its running fine. Once all that is done if you are getting the ECU scaned the tool can reset it. Once reset take it out for a nice calm drive and it will load all information from the car back up onto itself. The car will feel new and will definatly give you some power back, hopefuly get you all the way too stock power output All up you could spend $500 here depending on what tools, etc etc, inc the Nissan diagnostics scan tool which is about $250 or you can get it done at a performance shop. Oils and filters and spark plugs are common things and you wont pay more than $400-500 if you buy all you aerosols and oils from nulon. And asuming you do all the cleaning and (all this is very easy and a w/e can be the best time to complete all this) taking apart of small electricals and parts you will be doing labour youself. I can see it cost all up $500-$1000 THIS IS THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO TOO YOUR NA!!!!!!!!!! so much easier than a turbo and you will gain power and also piece of mind that your car it a lot more reliable...... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Thats the best you can do but after that i suggest Coilovers (height and camber adjustable) Links (adjustable re enforced Nismo ones) EBC brake pads and rotors (They do non turbo skylines ) Whiteline sway bars and links Change everysingle bush on the car too Superpro nolythane bushings Kakimoto 2.5" catback then have a exhaust shop custom make a cat and front pipe too bolt onto DKNE extractors Falken 452 tyres or Toyo Proxies T1r (best road going tyre with very soft compound for light track work) Thats like a little $10,000-$20,000 worth of stuff there depending on what brand you use Hope thats enough too keep you busy

The best thing you can do to your non turbo engie being a P plater is go out and get some essentials (carby cleaner-throttle body cleaner, lube spray, electrical connector and wire cleaner, WD40, Wire dryer ETC ETC ETC) Buy some automotive tools if you dont have some etc etc -Change air filter -Change oil filter -Change fuel filter -Change engine oil with an oil flush (try changing to a full synthetic such as nulon which is about $150 less than a redline oil usually $50 at automotive stores) -Change gearbox oil -Change diff oil -Change brake oil -Change Clutch oil -Change coolant with a system flush before -Total fuel system cleaner is 28 times more concentrated than a injector cleaner so spend your money there and it will do the best job on the place you cant reach without pulling an engine apart -Clean throttle body (spray the hell out of it with carby cleaner and wipe down) -Clean the AAC (IACV) (spray the hell out of it with carby cleaner and wipe down) -Clean the Cold start valve -Change sparkplugs -Go around and pull all your electrical plugs out, from headlights and brake lights - throttle position sensor and O2 sensor. Clean all conections with an electrical contact cleaner and wire cleaner on the wires in the engine bay such as earth wires (will be very time consuming ) -Clean all sensors E.G. your radiator sensors may be gooped up if oil has ever come into contact with the coolant, O2 sensor can become conjested with carbon so carby cleaner can get rid of that -Change all your relays and fuses that are not working (using a test light you will see if there is a current passing through or not) -Test all your sensors with a multimeter providing you know what volts, resistance etc you are looking for. This will determine if any sensors are dead or not up to scratch (Read next line for other option) -You can also have Nissan diagnostics scan tool pluged into your car (or even buy the CD and plug online) too read out any errors that may be present and you can also have your timing set, air/fuel ratio mixtures adjusted and a few more things (this is best as it will read all sensors too and give accurate readings). This test is really the last thing you will have too do as it will read your whole car and you will be able too tell things like the volts in your battery or even shut down the spark too a cylinder. When it reads 'error code: 58' you dont have any errors in your car and its running fine. Once all that is done if you are getting the ECU scaned the tool can reset it. Once reset take it out for a nice calm drive and it will load all information from the car back up onto itself. The car will feel new and will definatly give you some power back, hopefuly get you all the way too stock power output All up you could spend $500 here depending on what tools, etc etc, inc the Nissan diagnostics scan tool which is about $250 or you can get it done at a performance shop. Oils and filters and spark plugs are common things and you wont pay more than $400-500 if you buy all you aerosols and oils from nulon. And asuming you do all the cleaning and (all this is very easy and a w/e can be the best time to complete all this) taking apart of small electricals and parts you will be doing labour youself. I can see it cost all up $500-$1000 THIS IS THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO TOO YOUR NA!!!!!!!!!! so much easier than a turbo and you will gain power and also piece of mind that your car it a lot more reliable......

No the turbo and NA one are exactly the same. I know because i changed the top tank on the NA one from a turbo radiator.

haha +1 for Century. Its got a 3 year warranty, water indicator too tell me when i need too top it up with distiled water and higher CCA's and RC's than stock They are about $200 from supercheap

I think it might be a problem as i have 235/45 R17's on at the moment (i have not noticed that it rubs on that bushing nor does it feel worn) and also the sticker inside on the drivers side door gives the Kpa measurement if your using this size 235/45 R17. The car should fit the tyres no problem at all. Also your bush looks very close too your tyre there, mine was about 5cm's apart.

That hose is just overflow hose, its sold at super cheap auto by the meter. There are different diameters so best to bring a piece in or if you can get the size with a caliper gauge use that too buy the right size hose.

The people trying too approve this have so for about 5 years but are being set back by the locals for noise disruption. They always come around too work and get petitions signed too get it set up. They want a Curcuit, drag stip and skid pan.

hey, my radiator sometimes does this and the water runs all over the top tank making it look like the seal is leaking but we found out it was the connection from the top tank too the hose. The water was trickling out the hose and drop by drop landed on the radiator and spread over it. Just check the hose has not slipped back and letting the water seap out. I once changed a top tank and used the company Natrad, they charged $78 too change it, pressure test and flush. (Get the top tank from a wreckers)

DAMN

The first picture is of an automatic gts-4, dont ask me why but the automatic gts-4 has a A-LSD light (As you can see in an owners manual for r33's) where as the manual skyline has a 4WD light instead of a A-LSD light, they are the same thing and they still have a A-LSD in the rear wherther it be auto or manual transmition...... Also that picture says the orange warning light is transmition well thats bullshit because its a engine warning light so dont believe that, R33 GTS4 CLUSTER SERIES 1 AND 1.5 (right side of cluster) The 2 ontop you should have a seat belt reminder light (i dont think this works with compliance seatbelts), engine warning light, Then the 3 below are, oil pressure warning light, exhuast warning light and battery warning light. (left side of cluster) The 2 ontop are, door ajar, SRS air bag warning light Then the 3 below are Low fuel warning light, ABS warning light, Brake warning light (used for handbrake but also reads when your low and brake fluid) Then you should have 5 gauges, following from left - right Water tempature, Fuel , Speedometer, Tachometer, Oil pressure So far thats a GTS cluster, the last two things are a GTS4 thing and its SLIP and 4WD inbetween the Tachometer Judging the second picture is yours, the cluster is a GTS one. It will work fine in a GTS-4 because its got a few pins missing that the GTS-4 cluster uses for the SLIP and 4WD lights. There for the 3 plugs on the back plug in as normal but the extra pins on the plugs for the GTS-4 for your SLIP and 4WD lights have nothing too do. Has anyone ever seen there SRS, Fuel or seat belt lights in the working? i cant get any of them up when i have igntion on and am suspection the seat belt one wont work......but fuel never comes on when im low and just have never seen the SRS one and im not game too make that one show

where do you plan on buying the pistons from? You can get genuine 50thou but you are not going to find them as they are discontinued and i cleaned the last ones out in japan your only other option for a non turbo build is custom made pistons or finding stock pistons in good condition and putting sleaves in your cylinders. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/87...erson&st=20 thats my thread, its only 2 pages and has a list on there for re doing the engine (not including valves, spring, seat etc) Also if your not doing the labour it will cost a stupid amount.

i got a wave from a maroon stagea yesterday about 6:30pm at the top of kariong hill, i served a late wave.

served drew at work yesterday

yeah thats the company i was talking about, they will do it if you pay them. Its cool, if you ever get one make sure i see it

There is no such thing as a 4 door GTR, there is a company in japan that can make it for you but thats it. Anyway too the GTS-4 .... It seems really slow for a GTS-4, mine will hit 100km/h in about 7-9 sec depending how i do and what the temperature is like etc. Its pretty much stock except for carbon fiber hood, Kyb shocks that are 9kg front and 7kg rear, 17inch rims on falken 452's, 2.7L RB (whole engine rebuilt) and a pod filter (prooperly enclosed) all finished off with a tune. i get a very sudden churp of my tyres front 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd but its very quick and im using Falken 452's which are a very good and expensive tyre. Go to the drags to see if you are still getting the same times but expect about 14.5-15seconds on the quater mile

spotted a white r33 going through the round about at terrigal last night at about 11:30pm-12am and got a wave. Jason i have seen you about 3 times this week but you never see me, also spot the gold r33 everyday when i go too work

yeah its a LSD

my car is ready, took the pannel beaters just 4 hours to take the support out, dress the engine bay then spray it and the chassis rails, then reweld and spray the new radiator support perfect! duno if i will go because i am getting toyo T1r's around then

SLIP yep