central coast person

i will have my car back sunday. its just at the pannel beaters making sure everything is lined up too mint condish

twin cams make this rattle when you put a canon on it, the stock exhaust has a valve that opens and closes to stop this noise. Now you took it off and have a cannon it amplifies the rattle.

I highly doubt it but the only thing i can think of is the thermostat and it dosnt do a whole deal except open and close ..............maybe its stuffed and causing problems for the water pump.

yayyy GTS-4's!!!!! They are pretty rare. The po po dont even know what it is. The truith is they are hard too mod because you have too stick too the rule of thum, more fuel and air will increase power and being a NA there are not many ways too do that let alone much ways too get the power. You have too cut straight too spending more money for slight gains. My GTS-4 has oversized pistons too 50thou for now. It was my first mod and i wanted to make sure the block was out of the way, i also recondictioned the whole block and top end but with that out the way im only 10% of the way there and gained 20kw so far for the upgrade and rebuild (sitting on 121KW at the wheels)

The car has been modded to a RB27 Being modded at the moment, going to be modded more. Seeing track days (circuit and drag). Going too keep for as long as it will live as its VERY fuel efficent (and i love skylines) and i can afford a turbo as a track car and use NA for everday. Its convienient for me and i changed all the oils in my car for $650 with redline because i work in the spareparts market so i dont mind, i have to money too spend on it and i know the oil works. The lightweight shockproof is the best thing i have brought for my car so far. For a everyday NA skyline Nulon 10w-40 fully synthetic is a high market group 3 oil and at under $60 for 5L and being a fully owned aussie product definatly my 2nd choice of oils.

my gts-4 had that but the other way around. front were not allowing the caps too stay on so i gave it too my dad and he ended up using a funny fitting on an angle grinder (looked like a honey comb disk) it shaved the metal back without a problem

lol jason you know that redline is worth a piece of gold per drop Be cool and get all your oils redline then you will never ever have too worry about having bad oil its only about $200 for engine 7.6L of it.....

We all know cheap $199 semi slicks are not aloud on my car ever again! Toyo Proxie T1R's are more like it! Yeah hopefully if jason helps me finish the car off it will be down in my car Once i buy my list from NENGUN it should be a lot better.

spotted a r33 4 door on manns road west gosford at 10am, was a girl driver and she let me cross at the zebra crossing unlike everyone else! THANK YOU!!!

i might come if my car has all the body work done and i get new tyres. Cant go on the track with 2 semi slicks and another too that are mesh at the front =\ ANNND if i can hit the 5000km mark on the odometer then i will be able to push the car so i dont damage the new engine. r33 GTS4 - RB27DE ( 50 thou piston upgrade) ... and a pod thats it! Kw ~Unknown~

This is how the skyline is going at the moment for you guys that haven't seen it out for a while. Ive got all new parts and all i need is the surround for the front bar indicator on drivers side, also front driver side fender. the rest is all there except underneath the hood. Its been pushed back about 8cm but i have the radiator support

YEAH IM HERE!!!!! hahaha yeah its off the roads still. all i need is the drivers side guard and its done ...... ill post a pic of it atm in its dusty state just so you can all spot my skyline in my garage seeing as its been there for 2 months

did you change the spart plugs? You mentioned the car does it over 2500 RPM, does the turbo start to spool up around then? If so it will be putting the engine under more load and the plugs that are in there may be struggling to ignite under load. A O2 sensor is only a electronic measurement that is fed to the ECU so the car runs more smooth (checks ratio of things like fuel and air). This is why it might be a spark issue. If it was the turbo dying you would hear some horrible noise. If it was air you would feel somthing similar too a stall. If it was a air flow problem it is 99% of the time a problem through all RPM ranges aswell. E.G. if its a spark problem you will notice it misfires underload. The way you have described it is like misfire and maybe the plug so not operate well when hot because they are on there way out. If you changed the plugs you will ave to get your coils looked at so you can iliminate igntion possibilites.

The 4wd sump will not line up with the bottom end on any rear wheel block. (totally different shape) So your going to have to buy a sump off a rear wheel anywaysss.

cheers i was trying to move it but figured a mod had too do it. Help such as a picture of a Plug for the Series 2 wiring into the back of the socket would be good as i cant find a picture of the wire on the net. The series 1 are designed for 3 small progns and i think the series too have 3 but larger ........ any other help appreciated

still no go guys

hi everyone, Just got all my parts for a S1>S2 conversion Hood Headlights Grille renforcement bar Compleate S2 front bar Didnt change guards as i was under the impression that its not different and as from what i fitted didnt have any problems yet others say S1 and S2 guards are different. (still have not got a straigh answer.) The main problems is not fitting it but pluging the Series 1 wires for the single indicator into the Series 2 plug which is also a single socket. I thought that they had a indicator and fog light plug seperate and you pluged 2 wires in instead of 1 wire like the Series 1, but because they use one plug the wires cannot connect because they are a different fitting. They are both 3 pin but thats all thats the same with the wiring ............. Need help guys as i think indicators are kinda important ...

i can finish that story!!! haha The cops were looking for a crazy lady that had escaped and then came up to us asked us for drugs and did a burnout in a van yeah the day i see a engineer sign a pod off ....... They do bigger jobs like roll cages and turbo stuff There is a shop on Ebay that make pod covers for r33 RB25de's i have one and i have been pulled over 5 times and it has passed everytime

whiteline do not make a swaybar link for a non adjustable swaybar. If you had a adjustable one the part No. is KLC009

lol dont ask me why i put 'not wrong' their. i cant edit the post now.

A DE is less sluggish than a DET is what i was pointing out and a DE+T is a car built for street not circuit is what im suggesting Arron just needs to know the facts at the moment, his question was that his car is sluggish. To over come this you will need a NA ECU, Pistons finished off with a tune. Gathering the parts is simple, once gathered you must take the engine apart. Stick the ECU in as it is a fairly easy job Engine: Go to Supercheap and get a compartment box to keep all your bolts and nuts in neatly. I just cut some tape and stuck a square indicating what bolt and nut went where to make life easy. MAD082 is right, it isnt just take off put back on. Off the top of my head i can remember this: 1). Take off air intake all the way up too throttle body Done with a simple socket set (EASY) 2). Take radiator top and bottom hose's off Philips head screwdriver. Take the heater hose's off Philips head screwdriver. (EASY) 3). Wiring has to be taken off now. I advise you get a roll of tape and label from 1 and up. 1 around the AFM connector and 1 around the plug (this way you know what goes where easily). stick the wires in a box. (EASY) 4). Take all fuel, Air Con lines etc off the engine. Philips head screw driver. (EASY) [you haven't touched the engine yet] (might i had that leaving the hood on will get in your way so take it off, its only 4 bolts) 5). Take head shield and exhaust manifold off Socket set and maybe a breaker bar (Medium) Involves muscle and you have to unbolt from the engine and the front pipe. The engine is free from the chassis, the only holding points are the gearbox and front shaft. At this point i would pull the top end off as i did when i built my engine, its easier and weighs less and 2 people can lift it. At this point your look at 2-3 hours of work. at this point its fairly easy but after this you have to take the intake manifold and such off 6). Now you have to take IN THIS ORDER oouuutttt these parts. Throttle body is 4 bolts and the throttle cable. just need socket set (EASY) Then take intake chamber off, i think its 6 bolts. Socket set will take this off (EASY) Once that is off the fuel lines and rails with the injectors have to be taken out. Philips head screw driver, socket set (HARD HARD HARD, this is where their are tiny little O rings and parts that fall out. You cant get past this point if you dont know how to pull the engine apart because all on from here its not as simple as taking the bolts off) Then the intake manifold has to bee cracked off the block by taking some bolts off again. (MEDIUM) It takes about 3-4 hours and you have not dealt with the engine yet, just taken parts off that is fairly easy. After this your friend needs to know how to take the head off the block and everything else involved. Its very complicated to explain after this because its not as simple as turn and off comes the part. You need to call your friend and ask him if he can do it and you also need a engine crane to pull the block out. This is what it looks like when you are ready to take the block out..... - the shiny 50thou pistons. You have to disconnect the shafts into the block ETC ETC your looking at 4 days work. Putting it back on is 75% more work than taking it off. All the bolts need the right torque settings (grab a mechanics manual) all settings must be right or you could snap bolts or risk parts breaking. Then you need to get the timing right and a tune done. Once everything is off it takes double time to put back on believe me .......

haha, maybe they are a really smart gearbox and know when something is not wrong defiantly needs a diagnostics test.

Sam's spot on RB25DE pistons RB25DE ECU Tune (you will have your NA) If you end up putting NA stuff in the engine keep all that in the engine so you wont have to spend MORE money!!!. Then put a turbo back on and use your old ECU with a Apexi power FC or E-manage, (you will need to keep a good tune through a copyback) boost controller will be handy to adjust turbo settings to 6PSI (yeah not much as stated by sam or the engine will really go BOOM) keep it this way and you have a GTS-t that got high compression so you can take off without that turbo sluggish start and still gain some power from a turbo (best for street use because of the response being more easier to drive with and the turbo is really responsive aswell so it all ends up making a good daily driver). Other than that drive the other NA around for now and just reverse what has been done to the GTS-t ........... bit of a waste to do that i think.

lol yeah we all have marble interiors and some gold and diamonds haha nar mate they probably just had it made up at a shop or ebay seems to bring a few styles around. (its juts like a mobile cover but for cars ) LOOK WHAT CAME TODAY! Still need the series 2 headlights and front bar (M-spec style and it will look like my Pixle car ) Also look what i found when i was at justjap (thought id share the love) REAR CUT R35!!!

a RB25det doesnt even run 9:1 its less ! haha 8:5:1 i have RB25DE pistons sitting about 5 meters away from me now when i did my 2.7L conversion. Change the rings to ACL racing series rings and TAADAA!!!! You will be wasting money just reversing what you have just done. Look into making a high compression turbo engine (much better turbo street car). If you want to learn do it on a RB25 because its a very easy engine to work on. If you put NA pistons in and a ECU (NA one) keep your turbo ECU then after 10 months put the turbo back on and run 6psi and you will have heaps of response compared to the other GTS-t's.......Pistons are cheep (second hand good condition) (ECU's are cheap) labour is a fair bit and RB25's are very easy engines to work on so you better learn how deal with them if you want to get away with some money.