central coast person

repost

Good with Electronics? Going to have to pull it back out and apart. You need to get the printed circuit board separate from to Motor for the RPM needle as there are some messy solders on it. There are 4 solder points to pull the board off to motor and RPM needle. When you have done that your going to have to work on the micro chip as they didn't manufacture it well (micro chip is soldered on with about 20 or more pins), the solder would have become hard and it starting to crack at the printed circuit board from age. Need to take it off the board, scrape (very carefully) off the old solder resist stuff (which is a green coating) and then old solder so you can resolder the micro chip back onto the printed circuit board.

I guess there are small differences at high speeds 200km+??? I do know of the $300 Ebay carbon wing blades warping on high speed and flying off, few members have had it happen. The 400R wing looks more practical (can be adjusted at 2 points) but Auto Select's one looks more aesthetic. There is currently a 400R wing for sale on yahoo Japan and it looks like a real one. RHD could bring it in for you its $750 by the looks of it but obviously need to pay some fees and shipping. Link : http://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/j258391353

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280567-nur33-soon-to-be-a-time-attack-weapon/page-1?hl=r33 gtr This build had auto select bits on it. I do like the wing although a genuine 400r (Nismo GTR wing) looks better and come up on yahoo Japan from time to time

gah! is there still time to become a member? My misses and i wouldn't mind both signing up and coming to this event.

There is a drain pipe at the top of the head for oil (above the power steering pump). It travels down to the bottom of the block and had a small 90 degree rubber hose at the end of the pipe draining into the bottom of the block. You can cut that and put a T piece in there and direct the oil drain from the turbo into that T piece.

ahk, thought you were using a RB25 turbo. The oil return should be on the turbo you have, it stands out (Its a15 cm metal pipe with about a 45 degree elbow bend at the bottom of it aimed towards the bottom of the block so it drains turbo oil into the sump). There simple drain pipes, if you didnt get one with your turbo that one on Ebay looks to be a good alternative, you just bolt that plate to the turbo and screw one of the fittings in then the other into the block fitting and hook the hose up and its done.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-RB20-RB25-BRAIDED-OIL-WATER-LINE-KIT-/120915473394?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c271fb3f2 These are more expensive than 2nd hand pipes but are going to be easier for you to put on the car.

Get a Ebay front and dump pipe in one. They are about $299 and will get as good as the genuine ones if not better, not much more than 2nd hand genuine. Also look at getting a braied oil feed line and braided coolant feed and return line kits. You get all 3 lines in the kit.

I did the smash quote on that car, ended up needing new front guard, door and rear 1/4 panel plus more bits

The part number for a r33 cat in a N/A and a turbo are the same. I would only be using an educated guess but i reckon its the same for the R34. If thats the case the dump pipe will match the cat along as it the original one from compliance.

Not to sure if there the same, i can have a look at work on the Nissan catalog. Try depressing the clutch pedal when you start your car (make sure your in neutral) and the load off the crankshaft will help start the car faster. Almost all new cars use this feature, you cant start the car without the clutch pedal fully depressed. That should let you know if your starter is weak

If you remove that it will make the car a bit louder, if you were to cut it in half it looks like the inside of a cat converter but not as fine obviously

Did you get a exhaust manifold, dump and front pipe with the turbo? I originally was going to run wastegate pressure but i got over the idea of running 5psi quickly. You might only be able to run wastegate pressure without a boost controller. Keep us updated.

What else are you looking at getting? How much boost are you looking at running? Apart from me not needing to do any internals as i rebuilt the engine with everything genuine internals (apart from ACL racing bearings) and went up with 40thou genuine pistons. I've ended up going all out now and have got together: Greddy Profec B Greddy turbo timer Stock R34 turbo, dump and exhaust manfold with all fittings and lines and bolts. Stock Intercooler piping and BOV Blitz return FMIC to match stock intercooler piping (didn't want to make a cut under the washer bottle) Apexi super suction kit for stock turbo setup (not just the budget pod filter) Z32 AFM Greddy oil catch can and swirl pot KoyoRad 52mm Spitfires 555cc Nismo injectors Nismo adjustable fuel reg Walbro fuel pump Exedy heavy duty Need to get: Apexi power FC and hand controller Kakimoto catback, high flow cat and front pipe (Maybe will get) Greddy oil cooler and relocation kit

+1 for genuine as they flex more and come with everything. Don't touch non gen. They lasted 7000km on my car and split.

1). I think it would help you if you downloaded Nissan FAST (the genuine parts catolouge). That way you can look up the whole gearbox including the clutch mechanism and a lot more and also get part numbers. 2). I wouldnt know anything about the strength of it, but being OS GIKEN im sure its well suited and expensive. Lots of people just use stock boxes. I work for Nissan and the 3rd and 4th syncro hub and gear are no longer available they have superceded to a different assembly, you must change out about 15 parts all at once to fit it but they fix the weaker 3-4 setup. 3).Make sure you get a nismo pivot ball so you dont snap your old one or you will have to pull the box out to change it. Unexpectedly the relase bearing carrier snapped on my car and the bearing pushed diagonally on the clutch fingers and ruined the clutch i ended up having to get a new clutch so i did everything, the new carrier and fork and retainer springs aswell and the master and slave cylinder so i didnt have to pull it out again. 4). use genuine syncros, all gearbox shops only recommend the genuine nissan ones

Working for Nissan parts helps. I had a look today and the r33 has definitely the same parts used throughout the head, even the head itself. apart from the larger rocker covers, its all the same. However i checked the r34 and there are 3 parts in the head that differ. Intake cam gear (which we have worked out) Exhaust camshaft is a different part number. NA-13020-AA010 Turbo-13020-AA020 NA use same valve springs 13203-5L300 (all 24 of them). Turbo use different valve springs, note 12 intake springs 13203-5L300 are different to the 12 exhaust spring 13203-5L700 on the turbo aswell, so they are using different exhaust valve springs but the same intake springs...

His say new, yours are used but thats a awesome price for used lights mate, good find

I think you are mixed up with the standard series 1 and 2 GTR lights. They are $1300 for the set, but he has series 3 lights (factory projector and Xenon) Nissan are charging $2000ea! new for series 3 lights.

Defiantly the worst thing about putting a turbo on is getting it to the tuners with your base tune. Does the R34 NA and Turbo run different cams? On the R33 the whole head and valvetrains are the same, from cam gear and shafts to the valves. The series 2 r33's run VVT

Options: Bolt on turbo Stagea RB25 RB26DETT Make sure you dont get a RB25DET from a RWD you need to change to a rwd gearbox and then drive shaft etc etc. Its a massive amount more work putting a RWD engine in a GTS-4 or GT4. Also you need to change the cross member and sway bar aswell and the engine mounts and the brackets for the rails. If you have Nissan FAST the front of a GTS4 or GT4 are the same part numbers as a GTR so its unbelievably easier to drop a RB26 in there NEO RB25's are far to different to swap the parts out from a R33 RB25. Even if you did i dont know what you would swap out. The RB25DE and RB25DET have the exact same internals except for pistons and rings (obviously) and there are oil squirters on the turbo blocks, the heads are the same part numbers aswell and all the valvetrain, the turbos have larger rocker covers to support larger oil baffles. Its worth looking into adding a turbo as engine is not very different at all, and with a good tune it wont ping and detonate. Also the 4WD sump has an extra 500ml of oil so it suits a turbo build much better than the RWD, also if you upgrade the oil pump you wont run the sump dry. Just change ECU to a power FC (NA ecu will stall on boost), injectors 555cc injectors, walbro 255LPH fuel pump, boost controller, FMIC, 3.5" cat back and 3" turbo dump pipe, factory turbo (make sure it comes with manifold and all water and oil lines to make it easy on yourself). All parts brand new and respectable brands. Cost $3000-$4000 and you will get 200-220KW at the wheels if the tuner is good.

Nissan List (RRP) is around $380. Well worth it , its the last problem my car has/time being and was on going since 2008 when i bought it. Yeah Michael, your drunken post make sense but. That was most of my check list when a problem came up on my car, works well. I noticed it was the throttle body the other night when i cleaned it out and my idle went from 700RPM to 1000000RPM. Also because i work for Nissan i got a few opinions for some people and Nissan throttle bodies shouldn't be cleaned unless you can re-seal the butterfly yourself. People with GTR's will know what i mean when you i say don't clean the throttle bodies unless you know what not to clean off/what to clean.

I had some spare cash so i B/Ordered a new genuine throttle body for my car and have fitted it and tested it over the past 2-3 weeks to be sure and my car has started every morning (some mornings 6 degrees) like brand new, even at a point where i left it for 3 days it started like brand new. The idle needed to be adjusted via the AAC valve and also TPS when i first put it on as the throttle body was setup way different to who ever stuffed around with it. It has a silicone paste around the butterfly from new the same as the GTR to seal it completely tight and a few other things adjusted differently. I dont think many of the throttle bodeieshave the silicone there anymore as they are so old and when i looked the butterfly in the old throttle body had a constant gap there so its had to be creating the ruff idle on start up and a higher idle overall, my ACC screw was screwed almost all the way in to keep the idle down to 700RPM because of the butterfly being slightly open on idle all the time, now its screwed out way further because of the constant seal. The cars are most likely running rough because the TPS is expecting fully sealed throttle as its set inbetween 0.4-0.5V but the gap in the butterfly is making the ECU run a wrong start up due to more air. The ECU would be smart enough after a few seconds to adjust to it and make it idle out. I would also guess Aftermarket ECU's with an adjustable start up could be tuned around this by adding more fuel at start up. No more run like i had left a hose off or had a stuffed AFM on cold start up. No need to touch the accelerator pedal in the morning anymore.