central coast person

Reverse gear is straight cut, not helical so its sometimes not easy to get into so you have to roll a bit to get it in the right spot. When was your clutch last replaced? Sounds like there is not enough throw to select the gears, but once moving it helps it get into gear. I had the same problem but the sleeve my bearing slides with cracked and my thrust bearing wouldn't engage the clutch springs completely. i drove my car to the workshop with only the bearing pushing on the clutch a little. i noticed skyline gearboxes are fairly easy to get into gear will very little clutch there. Adjust the master cylinder from behind your clutch pedal and there should be a difference.

There good cars when you figure them out... Ive rebuilt the engine with New genuine crank, rods, 40thou pistons and rings, ACL racing bearings, oil pump, water pump then deck, honed and bored the block 40thou. Rebuild the head (but reused the valve-train parts) and full genuine gasket kit and Timing belt-kit everything cost me $2086 but i did all the work myself and i work for Nissan parts so i did get cost prices but the car is running well now 115-120KW@all four wheels. Ive gone on to change all new genuine part like sensors (AFM, TPS, 02 sensor, coolant sensors), AAC valve, air regulator, throttle body, injectors, fuel pump, coilpacks, Exedy heavy duty clutch, flywheel, all the hoses (genuine coolant, fuel, breather) stack of genuine bolts, heart and A//c parts, Nismo engine mounts. The list goes on, ive done a lot to the handling of the car aswell like $3000 coilover and changed a few other things like new steering pump and rack and nismo rack bushes etc etc etc. What im getting at is im now off my P plates and have spent a load and everything ive done is staying and helping with my turbo build apart from the injectors and fuel pump. So its all money well spent, ive now got a genuine Greddy manifold, turbo and loads more. There is nothing you can do wrong when buying these cars if you keep it when your off your p plates, it is VERY easy to bolt a turbo on to them

I have had this problem for 4 years and now and i bought the car with the problem before i changed all these parts, and its still sticking around. Its getting to winter and is getting worse again Gone through a full engine rebuild (from the piston, rings, crank, rods, oil pump, water pump etc etc to the head being rebuilt compleatley and all the rest ... everything ACL racing or genuine) Changed all my breather hoses, evaporative hoses, PCV hoses, fuel hoses, coolant hoses. Every hose in the car is a new genuine nissan hose ..... all of them New battery, AFM, TPS, both coolant temp sensors, AAC vavle, cold start regualtor (under plenum), O2 sensor, Spark plugs, Coilpacks + harness, injectors + harness all new and genuine All the cars fluids have been changed with Redline equivalent. I can keep going with the rest of the parts changed on the car but im less than half way. i dont care that much about the problem I chagned all this stuff because i can, not to fix this problem. Ive changed pretty much everything to new with my car except for the ECU CAS knock sensors Throttlebody Starter motor Alternator Hope that knock some parts to try off your lists

Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant IT IS!!! im changing everything anyway all the gaskets, 8 coolant hoses/heater hoses around there the 4 air hoses and 13 bolts and nuts on the intake manifold and the 9 on the plenum just to be safe

Hey Jez, What are you using with metal gaskets, i still feel the need to put something there..... im now being told to use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant

I have been noticeing build up of coolant on the ports at the front and middle of the intake manifold as of late and it built up so i decided to check it out. With the intake manifold off i cant really notice what has cause this although i can see it has leaked directley above the channels where the coolant goes inbetween port 1 and 2 and port 3 and 4, ...... 5 and 6 are fine. I dont think these intake manifolds are common for warping and the feeler guage shows it fine. The only thing i can put it down to is orange goop was applied only around the coolant channels on the gasket and i though this might have caused the leak of coolant as the workshop manual says you dont need to apply anything as its a crushable metal gasket for the intake. A non genuine gasket was used aswell =/ Has anyone had this problem before? Should i re apply something there or should it just be crushed? The engine was rebuilt 25,000km ago and not had a problem, the coolant only started leaking 200km ago ...... You can see where the coolant has stained

Not a great deal, only to some degree. Its just a increased clamping force to reduce the disc sliping in non stock cars. A button clutch is perfect for dumping the clutch.

It will fit no problems at all non genuine usually only list a GTS-t but in most cases it will also fit a GTS. Ive done it twice now. There is no difference in flywheels in GTS and GTS-t's, they are the exact same the part ...... the part number is 12310-AA101 Also buying a heavy duty clutch wont have much benifit for kicking the clutch as the clutch disk is the same part in all clutch brands for there basic kits and the heavy duty kits. Heavy duty just means a upgraded pressure plate. The only time the disc is different if you change to a button type clutch.

Well if its a GTR first off so dont stick 80w-90 in your rear diff, it will be fine in your front diff but that oil does not suit the rear diff because the LSD is setup with hypoid gears so normal oil will just squeeze out the teeth on the crown and pinion because of the pressure applied with the way the diff is setup. You need 80W-140 which is made for hypoid gear types and LSD's so you dont run it dry. From factory Front diff is: 80w-90 Rear diff is: 80w-140 Gearbox: 75w-80 (just use a redline lightweight shockproof as the box is getting old) Transfercase: Nissan Matic-D

fair enough Power Steering pump? Hose on the pressure side of the power steering pump? (the crimped area is leaking oil)

What GTS-4 is it? Series 1, 1.5 or 2. There is a difference for the engine wiring harness's between the lot.

Well i always park my car there monday - friday as i work at the dealership. But its a R33 so hmmmm

I have rebuilt GTS-4's engines, diffs, gearboxes BLA BLA and how did you get them to line up???????????????? They are no where near the same shape as the block? The GTS-4\GTR block petrudes out where the diff is and it has 4 or 5 different styles bolts where the RWD is just rectangle and uses 30 of the same bolts....... They will fit but they are not the same 270CC like the NA ones they are about 370CC

From factory it has GTS-t in rear and GTR in the front. Its the same driveline exept for gear ratios but the suspension is a mix or everything, to do it you will need to fit HICAS if you want to do this as the GTS-4 (r33 and r34 GT-4 are one of the only skylines to not come with HICAS) also changeing the brakes and wheels\hubs and handbrake.....it gets expensive and you wouldnt do that for that mount, it makes no difference to a GTS-t one. I am using Greddy coilover for a GTS-t and the rear ones are a perfect fit and the front ones fit fine aswell but i dont have much more to lower my car only 1cm of thread on the coilover, but it is a fairly low car as you can see in my pics so its plenty to play with. There is no mechanical problem using GTS-t coilover in the front the only difference is a GTR one is shorter for the front driveshaft. Try returning the coilovers as they did not fit and under new consumer laws i doubt it will be a problem, just exchange them for GTS-t ones.

Maybe you may need to use a spacer made just for that rim. Advan Triforce rims need there own spacers

The capacitors inside the G-sensor leak and cause the sensor to stuff up. This could save you some money http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/356654-r32-gtr-g-sensor-fix/

I keep seeing a white r33 every week night and have been for a year or so out the front of gosford hospital around 10ish ...... curious anyone on here? That highway patrol car hides in the jax car park some nights, pretty smart and its a burgundy so you cant see it in the dark. A lot more cop cars around this year from what i see so far, i saw 3 together stopped the other day.

It has nothing to do with your oil, sounds like your clutch is not disengaging properly so try your master cylinder or slave cylinder for leaking fluid as it sounds like there is not enough pressure it may even be the clutch pedal. Also reverse is a straight cut gear not helical like all the others so it should be that slight bit harder to get into gear as they are not meshed like a helical gear, just use your muscle and throw it into reverse and you wont have a problem.

The caliper is the original one, the part number between the caliper and the catalog match if check, it even had 41060-EA025 which was the brake pad it would have had fitted from factory and now superseds to D1060-AA190. Also the pad i ordered with my Vin number fit the first time so that proves the caliper could not have been changed as i am ordering with a Vin number from the original Nissan catalog. Also when i type D1060-AA190 in NISCOM (Nissan Australias ordering system)it tells me what cars this is going to suit and it listsZ50 and also says suits R33 so the GTS-4 has a caliper different to any other skyline. I did more reseach today and found the calipers are the same as a C34 stagea with a RB25 (only 4WD not the 2WD that is different again!!!) Thats why i posted this thread, just to see if anyone had come across this and hopefuly it will help someone now. Are you able to make any pad spec i would like? I talked to QFM and they said all i had to so was quote the pad design (DB1835)then the spec material (so something good i would have said ) and they would make it for me in a week to my liking....

What are the differences in your catalog to help you select the right pads? i always thought NA RB20 r33 being one, then NA RB25 (2WD) being one, Where i thought the 2WD and 4WD were using the same pad but now i know the third one would be NA RB25(4WD). I was mislead by the bendix website, i could not find any other non gen catolouge on the net so i just used genuine Nissan in the end. The original pads were on the car after 200,000km they were 41060-EA025, which now superseded to D1060-AA190 for a Z50 and the non-gen pads listed for D1060-AA190 are DB1835. Then looking at buying DB1835's I could only choose general or 4WD in common brands so i just went with genuine which is are made by akebono and obiously getting things at cost was cheaper than bendix in the end. If there are other options for D1060-AA190/DB1835 i would be interested as the genuine ones are obiously nothing special.

Ahk, lots of people with Z-tune bonnets ask why their car wont work when they have them fitted. I bought a Seibon Blitz version because i was still worried about it, looks awesome but on your R34.

EFFFF YOU TRIPPLE POSTTT!!!!!

Is that a genuine one? Or does it have rain guards? If it isnt your going to have trouble with the rain getting through your coilpack cover.....

Is that a genuine one? Or does it have rain guards? If it isnt your going to have trouble with the rain getting through your coilpack cover.....

Is that a genuine one? Or does it have rain guards? If it isnt your going to have trouble with the rain getting through your coilpack cover.....