central coast person

hmmm very weird, how there are 2 listings. They are just a blank caliper, cant see any branding on them, just 2 pot sliding. Maybe some GTS-4's are using the GTS caliper The ones that suited me were 137 x 54.2 The other smaller pad you mentioned are the same size as a non turbo GTS pad (What i thought would fit in the first place). I think the only way to know would be to pull the pads out. So if you cant seem to get the right pads for a GTS-4 try part number D1060AA190 or you can use Z50 Murano in non-gen (i think they are db1835). Im still waiting on my rotors as they are being made.

Well if you want to do a 5 studd hub and brake conversion anytime soon the rotors for your stocck 4 stud hubs are the part number RDA7691S for the pair. I just ordered them but they sent the wrong ones RDA7914S (Duno how they f**ked it up) so i have to put this back a week or two now. I got my genuine pads from Nissan though and they look right, might fit them on the weekend.....ill post the part number if they are the right ones

If its the original Japanese Vin plate (The one with your original japanese vin BNR32-****** and other fine details) thats going to be hard to get a hold of. Hopefuly they can search for it if it was not thrown away but i work for Nissan and have never been asked for one and hope i never do hahahaha. It would just be so difficult to get ask someone where to order it from. What types of security did your car have without going into fine deatils and specs over forums? (i.e. immobiliser ect ect)

In the boot, just look up under the rear window, or where the rear wiper motor is and you will see it and it has a red L.E.D built on it that fashes slow and fast. Count the flashes, if there are 7 slow ones and 5 fast ones then 75 is the code meaning for 75 and there is a thread with R33 GTR codes on here somewhere. Make sure its for r33 GTR/GTS-4 as the r32 and r34 have different error codes.

Finally, Good

The gearbox assembly is the same part number in Nissan FAST as a GTR gearbox, or its superseded now days but either way it may have been slightly different when it came from the factory but not different enough. If you bought one brand new today (there still being sold) you would be sold the same box as a customer buying one for a GTR and genuine is always sold as direct fit so its the same box. Are you sure its only a few of your main bearings and syncros (baulk rings)? im sure the gears will be fine BC should be good. They have a close design as the Greddy GTS-t ones i am using now. Dunno why they say it wont fit, all 4WD skylines from r32-r34 have the same driveshafts at the front, there is only one part number, the knuckles, lniks and suspension at the front on a r33 GTS-4 and r33 GTR are all the same part number and the wheel bearing aswell. I dont know what would cause a conflict, it should fit no problem. Anyway i bought some slotted rotors for this today and these will be right as its only to fit a GTS-4 so they should be fine. I should be getting the pads for Nissan Melboure warehouse tomorrow, but will do it sunday as i wont have time. See how all this fits

Whats wrong with fitting the RB26? Its almost straight drop in? Hub conversion is r33 GTR front hubs and r33 GTS-t rear hubs... Coilovers can be GTR in the front and GTS-t in the rear or just a GTS-t kit like i have. Aslong as the coilover can be height adjusted well enough. The only difference in the stock GTS-t and GTR front shock is height because of the front driveshaft, other than that no structural difference in the strut. The GTS-t ones i fit on the weekend fit like a glove. So get a coilover kit for a GTS-t like Greddy that has good height adjustement and 32 point dampener lots of people dont understand how height adjustable coilovers can be. P.S. SO no one had ever changed there GTS-4 pads? i ordered genuine pads today so ill see how it goes ...

I was fitting Greddy coilovers on the weekend (kudos to these coilovers ... 10/10) and was going to do the front pads at the same time but i couldnt as the pad was different to what it is supose to be, i brought DB1165 (apparently all non-turbo r33 have this listed by non-genuine) but it was 20mm to short in the caliper and the shape was off a fair bit, they were more like a half moon while the ones on the car were shaped more like a wedge. I work at a nissan dealer so i came to work and looked up the dusty genuine pads and found they are D1060AA190 which is for a Nissan Murano Z50(which is weird enough but then got a list of all the part numbers that superseded to that number and there are 2 older number and both only suit r33 GTS-4 so its not an error). Then i cross referenced them with a z50 non gen number and there non gen number is DB1835 and the bendix picture of DB1835 sure enough are the ones fitted. So anyone with a GTS-4 have you come across this? Im now sure they do not even have the same brake pads as a non-turbo r33 (But all non-gen list it as to suit all non-turbo r33). I know the rotors for a GTS-4 are very different to a GTS aswell but the non-gen listings have GTS-4 down as a different part number to GTS so they have figured that the rotors are different. You can see the differences of DB1165 and DB1835 on the bendix site, i duno how people with GTS-4 have been replacing there pads or if they have yet? these are the factory pads as the part number that was on them was erased out of the system so they have done 195,000km which is pretty good lol.

You dont need the brakes the only reason people change the brakes is because the caliper will clear the rim with a 5 studd providing its got a good offset so the larger caliper can fit. The stock non-turbo brakes are bad.So if you just want to change to a 5 studd rim you can leave your old calipers if you dont want better brakes. There wont be a difference in suspension between GTS and a GTS-T shock you wont need to touch your suspention when you do the conversion. Not even the knuckle that the suspention attaches to.

lol. yes we will all tell the large car companies around the world that they can magicly no longer build there cars and shut there factories down so millions of people lose jobs and the economy collapses ..... yesssss i can see it now.....

It really wouldnt be a GTS-4 if it didnt have a LSD. All GTS-4's have them in the rear and the centre

r33's above 1995 (series 1.5 and 2) dont use the relay you are talking about, its in the switch for them. Its probably the regulator motor, i had the same problem. It didnt even make a groan like most motors do it when they die. Those wires do look like there for the alarm

I dont like using urethane for radius rods or anyway control arms. Because Polyurethane bushes are self lubracatning it causes them to shift a lot and also the twisting motion is what causes them to crumble. The only time i use urethane is in sway bar D bushes as its an advantage for the bar. Im using Nismo radius rods and 2 years later they look and feel brand new and handle just as well and take 5 min each side to fit so its a lot easier than swaping bushes. Bad thing is it cost $300 for the set so its a lot more.

Is it like a fat ass boat???? i had that feel. My GTS-4 which is the same as the GTR at the front needed the whole castor rods, you can get new nismo ones for $300. It felt ok after but i needed to do the swaybar and D bushes and links aswell to make the car feel more stiff when steering. In the end it is just showing its wear and tear. the springs will cause the car to sway like a boat so consider coilovers around this time aswell. ill be getting some in less than a week because my stockies are well over and done. Everyones going to post up there 2 cents if they feel like it because there are so many way to go about it but it really is the wear and tear feel of a boat that the r33 gets when it gets worn.

Thats ok, if you still cant find it the mounting points are on the rear wishbones by memmory. Its hard to picture where is would go because the swaybar link is a stright cylindrical piece of metal inlike most other links, you need nuts either side that go through the wishbone in the rear . But if you get whiteline they change the design and you need to buy there links to make it suit, its a lot better than the stock rear sway bar, because the design changes the whole way the sway bar looks and fits.

Nissan did not put it there from factory, the mount and bracket holes are there but i dont really know hw to explain where they are its easier if you just look at a GTS-T with it fitted, GTS-T and GTR may be the same as the swaybars are the same part NO#? im pretty sure....

no problem, ill keep in touch to come and get it. I need to see my dad one time in the next 2 weeks as he has a outlander and a trailer. Keep me informed if someone else wants it, i just need time to get a pick up car. ill pm you on a weekend i will be able to do it.

or bolt a turbo to your NA setup with some medium boost (12-14psi) and youre laughing......still its pretty expensive and if the engine is worn you going to have to re-build it anyway.

NF01 from exedy is the best value flywheel to get. Better ones are from NISMO

I work for a nissan dealer and all i can say is you have no idea how hard it is to work with inline with nissan australia and japan. Thats pretty fast october to jan for that sort of part as its a panel they wont just make one of those panels they will pump out 5-10 and even wait for more back orders to come through before the panels are cut. They always do this. Also the date will say 17-1-2012 and its only gets updated every tuesday and it will just keep getting delaid more and more. Sometimes we have to wait 3 months for parts that are common and the cars are acctually sold in australia. If you were contacting a dealer they did a lot to help you as the dealer info are only ETA's and all emails and phone calls reguarding back ordered will be mostly ignored. You may aswell get a second hand one and it will rust depending on where it is cut. If its cut where the original one is installed with seam welder it will be fine but if its choped and fitted inbetween the stock seam welds chances are yes the panel beater wont go to all that work to stop the rust and just chop the old one out and fit a piece of it in and weld them together, all welds rust if not treated. P.S. i buy a lot for my R33 and i had to wait months and months for a washer bottle =\

Do you still have the gearbox, i can pick it up as i live on the central coast? What oils were used with it aswell? P.S The block is the same shape as a GTR one so the RWD sump wont fit without an adapter plate. I tired that when i did my engine build.

If you go for a nose cut there is not to many differences S1 and S2 is the biggest one because of the bar, reo, headlights. Obviously non turbo and turbo are different but manily it wont come with a interooler,it would'nt be a loss if you used a non turbo one just buy a intercooler with a bracket or aftermaket front mount. If you want your Air con to work there are differences in 93-95, 95-96, 96-98 the condensers are different but the fans are the same. Radiators are the same only differences are manual and auto ones.

Spot welded and you should buy it from a shop like justjap or even nissan. It is about $300-400 for the whole support assy. If you want it cheap you can try get a cut off ebay but its mostly sold as a nose cut and they are more expensive $500-$800 but it comes with a few bits so if all you need is a radiator support thats why you may aswell get it new. The supports for all RWD r33's is 62500-15U00

Cheap carbon bonnets may not fit well and the clear coat can crack around lips of the hood and start to crack from the outside of it. Also vents give you a dirty engine and wet the shit out of your belts and they look worn after about 5,000km........only use vented bonnets for a track car or if you can get one with rain guards but they are expensive. If you want really want a carbon bonnet i only recommend a copy of the OEM bonnet, it looks clean and keeps you away from vents.

If i could get this to N.S.W then i would buy it now =\