central coast person

Does the HD camera work in anyone else's cig lighter socket?

R33 GTS-4's and r34 GT-4's dont have HICAS from factory, they have a the ATESSA ECU to control power steering and also there is an extra rear link in the suspention compared to other skylines with HICAS, obiouly there are wiring and relay differneces but they are the 2 main ones. First you will have to see if you can use a 4WD ECU to get the ball rolling ........

I am more than 100% sure you need GTR at the front and GTS-T on the rear (only for r33 and r34). If its a r32 you can use GTR all around. You can fit GTS-T if you want but it will be worse than the stock setup, the front knuckle on a GTS-4 is the same one as a GTR so the shock is very short on a GTR and GTS-4 while the GTS-T has a fairly long shock, this means you will have to wind the coilover as fair down as it goes and the suspention wont work well and you cant adjust anything at the front, just so you can fit it in there or else the car will look like its taking off from a 1000HP drag lauch.

Also note, TEIN make Flex and Mono Flex both are still being made and Flex is more kind on the street than Mono Flex. The Flex tyre coilovers are definatley good value for money

Same, the less i prime the pump the better it starts. If i prime it 2-3 times its like a f#ckin steam train. Just chugs and then stalls. Yeah Sarge, i always get different out comes from it but the best is just starting it as fast as you can. I really think its to do with fuel but i have almost everything new on my car ... only thing is injectors i got them with low KM but im worried they are leaking but you also have changed your so hmmmm

Tastey. I think i gave that a go a while back, cant really remember. I'll give it a go after work that will be enough time to cause it to start up like that. Where and when would you be able to try the ECU out? A lot of post on the NET with this problem on skylines and not one has a fix

Hey DVS, I brought a new coolant temp sensor but it did nothing . Wiring and conector are also fine for it.... Car started up rough as all hell today as its cold and rainy on the coast. When it starts up rough it splutters like a drag car with lumpy cams and yes if i tap the accelorator it definatley is leaning the car out as it idles like a brand new car the second you feed it more air or if i start the car with my foot on the accelorator pedal pushed in about 2-3mm, it starts like there is no problem at all (i dont like doing this though because if my foot is down more than 2-3mm it rev's the shit out of it on cold start). I dont imagine this problem to be good for a cold start aswell as it stalls and idle jumps around for about 5 seconds so either way its a lose, lose situation. DVS if you can check it when ever you want, it is a series 2 engine.

Yeah i dont exaggerate about all the parts i have changed, only because i work for nissan parts i could afford to do it. CAS and fuel presure reg are the only things left, everything else is new. I only care if i sell my car because it makes it look crap but its really almost showroom. Everyone that sees it thinks its done less than 10,000km. Seems to be a common problem and dosnt matter if its a NA or a turbo by the looks of it.....32 and 33 aswell I have tried priming it but it does nothing.

I tried it again but its still doing it. Holding the clutch in is just causing it to not stall as easily but the longer the car is left the more worse the start is. After 24 hours its a guaranteed stall. cheers

i tried this today but nothing changed. Over the last few days i have also been holding the clutch in when cold starting. Its been starting good. Could someone have a few goes and see if it helps them....

woops, yeah EB

just use the rubber ones. i work at at nissan parts and everything is available still so it should not be a problem getting what you need

I went to EA games in Sydney Broadway (all should have it but) and its in the coming soon section in one of those generic DVD cases. Should be soonish then.........

ant123 & dkbcleaner you will not be able to get people to fast these VIN's the FAST system everyone uses on SAU is old. I can look these VIN numbers up at work because i work at nissan but im locked off to photo uploading sites so i cant give you guys a picture but yes they are working

148cc K11 Micra 1.0/1.3L (CG10DE/CG13DE) 190cc N14/N15 Pulsar 1.6L (GA16DE) 250cc S13 Silvia/180SX 2.0L non-turbo (SR20DE) 250cc N14/N15 Pulsar 2.0L (SR20DE) 260cc S13 Silvia/180SX 1.8L non-turbo (CA18DE) 270cc S14/S15 Silvia/180SX 2.0L non-turbo (SR20DE) 270cc R32 Skyline 2.0L turbo and non-turbo (RB20DET/RB20DE) 270cc R32/R33 Skyline 2.5L non-turbo (RB25DE) 333cc Import non-turbo VVL engines (SR16VE, SR20VE) 370cc S13 Silvia/180SX 1.8L turbo (CA18DET) 370cc S13/S14 Silvia/180SX 2.0L turbo (SR20DET) 370cc S15 Silvia AUS delivered 2.0L turbo (SR20DET) 370cc R33 Skyline 2.5L turbo (RB25DET) 370cc Z32 300ZX 3.0L twin-turbo (VG30DETT) 440cc R32/R33/R34 Skyline GTR 2.6L twin-turbo (RB26DETT) 440cc RNN14 Pulsar GTiR 2.0L turbo (SR20DET) 480cc S15 Silvia/180SX JAP import 2.0L turbo (SR20DET)

Yeah would be good to see it on a r33. i have only seen it done on r34's, I know its easy on a r34 because you only need 2 90 degree pipes and it sounds good aswell. Cheers

Im using PFR5G-11 but its a NA. I doubt its oil my engine is using 10w40 and still does it and is in A1 condition after replacing almost everything now. Also if it was oil causing something like this, the lifters would tap there heads off early morning because not enough oil would be reaching the head. Just cant understand why when i tap the accelerator is fixes itself or if i let it stall the 2nd start is perfect.

How much are the bushings? and will you be fitting them yourself? i ended up buying them in NISMO off ebay new for $330 with freight and fit them myself, it only took 20min. by the way its a pair of tension rods with the bushes for $330.

It would be about the same price to get one of ebay and you may aswell get one thats ment for the car

i dont know if you noticed but the RPM guage is missing 500RPM till redline? is should be redline at 7000rpm P.S. Its a r33 GTS cluster for a series 2 manual which would be fine if it was not ment for a RB20E

yes they do. It looks the same but with a P, R , N, D etc etc posted inbetween the speedo and tacho in a vertical position. It would be easy to tell if its an auto or manual cluster, post a picture. The reason i am asking is because the clusters from manual and auto skylines are set differently because the auto and manual gear ratios being different. Thats why would think its going much faster

Just trying to figure out why its different. I have 2 very good pictures or a cluster from a series 1 and then a series 2 on the printed circut and there are no differences at all. So your car is a r33 GTS manual S1 and you have a cluster for a r33 GTS S2 manual? You must make sure the new custer is also a manual cluster

So is your car an auto?

i changed my coolant temp sensor to see if i could stop this but it did nothing. I work at nissan so i got BRAND NEW genuine fuel pump, TPS, AAC valve , cold start regulator (one under intake manifold), O2 sensor, injectors and have also done a engine rebuild (bottom and top end and a complete genuine engine gasket set with all new genuine breather hoses). nothing fixed it, it was the only problem left. I have had the same problems on cars that are not skylines and its always pump or injectrs or coolant temp sensor so i gave up on this ages ago when i replaced them, its the only thing wrong with my car now.

any pictures of what it finished looking like???