central coast person

It wont fit as easily as you want it to. The 4WD RB engine mounting will need to be stuffed around with, the engine mounts and rails on any skyline that has a RWD RB in there needs fit has some modifications to fit it. The gearbox would bolt up and the engine harness is fine. You would waste a lot of money to fit an engine that wont simply bolt in easily then take it out soon after. N-DAWG is right, because its illegal you can just buy a turbo car put it in your garage and work on it because you have time for that........so much easier, so much more money saved.

correcto mutcho, when you pull the sender unit out you can see a switch thing on the very bottom of sender unit itself but it will only work if the float touches the switch on the unit. So if the sender is giving false readings saying your are empty (fuel gauge can be on 'E') but then the float will not be in contact with the switch on the assembely because you still have more fuel than what its showing on the gauge.

Its just the sender needing a clean by the sounds of it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/363010-fuel-level-sender-cleaning-r33-gtst/

Roundup weed killer

Code 53 for a r33 GTR is the pressure switch or circuit (obiously for attessa system). Just start with the basics, clean and check terminals/earth then wiring then the pressure switch or vice versa.

Standard or LSD??? If its just the standard rear diff +1 for post above. The GL rating is like a quailty rating and its just 4 or higher. If its a LSD is more important you must use 80w-140, the reason is because its a hypoid type oil and a hypoid diff has such high pressure between the crown and pinon gears that if it was normal oil in there it would squeeze the molecules out between the pinion and crown gears and not lubricate it.

A 3" pipe for a NA RB25 is too big. I have a consult and a cable for the laptop aswell and they are ok but it is no where near accurate as the real thing and i usually read the screen and have to find the fault myself. It could be the knock sensor,O2 sensor or the throttle position sensor broken or just not set right or lots more. All these things can set the engine to go into a 'MAP mode' which cause the usual 1500rpm everyone gets when something stuffs up.

i would check your AAC valve if the idle is rough as it is most likley gumed up with carbon. Its very simple to do just go to the DIY section in the forums and look for the thread to walk you through it. There are other threads on how to get the most out of your car just by tweaking and cleaning other things.

Have you checked the earth points in the engine bay, just below the fuse box. I had a problem for 2 years where if i used anything electrical in my car it would shoot to 2000rpm and stay there until i turned the applience off E.G lights Its simply was arcing on the paint work so i sanded back a little bit and its been fine. Just start with the basics.

Fuel light (im pretty sure) is fursest to the left on the bottom I think it really just comes down to the condition of the car, im getting really good KM's out of my car now

Ok then cheers. ill have to ask but. It took months to source parts and there were 3 of us looking. The guy who rebuilt the engine did most of the sourcing for the bottom end and rebuilt it as it was in his workshop for 6 months waiting. The only thing i didnt have anything to do with was the block, i just pulled it out and took it down the road to his shop and put it back in wih crank and pistons already in there. By that time i was tired of the rebuild because i couldnt get the 4WD sump onto a normal rb25 for a easy fix. Theory is what ever you think it will cost then times that by about 10

AHK ok maybe, i would have ot ask. The invoice only says 2nd hand crank 40,000km, engine gasket set, pistons ETC ETC ETC. its only a basic hand writen invoice. If so its can you fit Rb26 cranks in? 3.1416/4x75.69x7.37x6=2629(about, i never calculated it it just says 2.7L build on the invoice)

RB25 crank 73.7 or am i wrong :S ??? i know the calculation for the volume of a cylinder then converted into Liters i remember it being just over 2650cc but if i am wrong about the stroke (what the mechanic told me who was honeing and boaring the engine) then un-happy days. I doubt it will have any mechanical problems for 1000's of km's. It runs better than it would have from the factory

Been there done that. I had to because i had to start using 40W70 grade oil and all 5 liters would blow out after 500km anyway so it was gettting expensive. Cost me about $4000 and i work for Nissan (Cost pice of parts) and did the labour with my uncle (9 months, most of it was waiting for parts). Someone to pay retail and labour i recon i could see it being $7000-$8000. Also If your going to reboar and hone good luck getting new pistons for a NA. I know i can order them but only to turn your car to 2.7L and they are $3000 for the set with rings. it will cost you about $3000 just for other parts and its going to take a while to get the parts

Whats your VIN: BNR34-****** I can look it up and give you a price and also i can see if it has alternate parts.

try make a allocated date so you can work out how many people can get there. I have a helemt thats just to old and there is nothing wrong with it. ill have to try hire one. Na 300zx's dominate NA r33's

Maybe i should go, i hav'nt been with my new engine but i dont have a new helmet either.

Yeah , better value for money in the end. I always thought it was a twin throttle body x 3? I don't mean just 1 throttle body if thats what you thought. Probably right in saying people pop RB26's because of the restriction in the oiling system and cooling system on them not alowing to much more over the stock power? I can see how a RB26 needs a lot more money spent on it. Everyone wants to REV to 10K? i know i do. Problem is there is to much info to talk about these things like this just over the internet, everyone needs to get a there hands onto these things more often. If someone was rebuilding there car on these forums i would drive right to there house to get stuck in with them. Fryday13 - have you thought about looking into getting an engine sooner than you think and buying an engine stand and working on it over some time out of an engine bay ..... if you have space? Everyone i know has done it the engine bay way and would rather the engine stand now.

The RB26 has solid lifters and twin throttle bodies etc etc etc. It is a different engine really, and if you do have one it will take way more thrashing than a RB25 could ever take. Its usually $4000 just for the engine and no turbos. I know the RB26 has the same amount of work as the RB25 would, minus the pipe work involved, its needs some small body mods. Ive seen it done, the chassis rails are the same in a GTS-4 as a GTR same goes for engine mounting and gearbox case. You can literaly drop the RB26 into the engine bay. All you need to change is the clutch, ecu, wiring, and intercooler and exhaust. But like everyone is hinting, Its a lot of money compared to a RB25, where im sure you will have as much fun either way. I did buy a RWD engine when i was rebuilding my GTS-4 and i used everything internal which was no problem but seriously there is no way in hell i would go through what was needed to use the block. Its a totaly different shape. Just remember make sure its a 4WD RB## what ever!

Agreed, you wont be able to use a RWD engine because the shape of the block is totaly different, you wont be able to bolt the 4WD sump to it. You would need a RB25(4WD) or RB26. You also have to take off 2 of your doors for weight reduction of the turbo wont work Stagea's have an rb25 (4WD) or you can also find them with the RB26. Basicly if you want it to be 4WD make sure you buy a engine that is 4WD or you are going to have to stuff around with a lot of money for the reason of you buying a RWD engine and realising that you wanted to keep it 4WD

Yeah its really good to look up any 2012 model's. There are a lot of cars that we dont even know about on there. Ill bring a USB into work tomorrow so i can test it on my home computer and make sure there is no posible way nissan has put a lock on it in the last year.

+1 And the cat sensor is uselesss on 99% of highflow cats because there is no point to install it so maybe invest in a highflow cat and forget that the mechanic ripped it out? Exhaust shops tuck the sensor under the heatshild when fitting the cats so they are simply installed for someone to say "hey my cars got a warning like, better take it to the mechanic".

k = black interior Yes all r33's are 'k' but other Nissans may not have black (k) interior. Like a TIDA or whatever dosnt have black interior, haha.

Why would you want a new copy of FAST for to look up things like JAP 2012 GTR's????? haha I would be able only via USB. Nissan only lend the disc out for 1 day a month when you do the monthly update. I can easily get the files onto usb but. Northern beaches is pretty close to me

hey terry. This is what it came out as.