central coast person

Sorry, the OP has corona stain. Yours looks like a manufacturing fault in the plug, the washer may also be the problem because it looks like its getting a lot of heat. Also people who pull there plugs off a lot dont understand but the washer cant be good for more than a couple of looks of your plug. Your tips are a nice orange-brown so nothing is wrong with the engine.

I have emailed a file to myself at home so tonight i should be able to upload onto something like photobucket. There are to many restrictions on the work computer to upload it at the moment.

Its called corona stain. It stains brown because of corona spark which is the gap between the insulator and nut and a spark traveling up the plug. Go on google and type in NGK corona stain or spark and there is enough info for you

yep its a r33 with all the parts on it from factory so they are not performing like they used to. People with turbo's usally have more knowledge and money than people with non-turbo's, note the engine bay . Thats why there car can get more fuel, its in better condition. I get 500km to a full tank around normal roads (no highway driving included) using highways about 600km, GTS-4 and its 2.7L now. I used to get 300km to a full tank but i brought brand new- Fuel pump All the Filters Oils AAC Valve Cold start Valve Coolant temp sensor TPS Rebuilt Engine Engine Gasket Set O2 sensor Plugs seems to have fixed it.

what is your VIN? i cant see pictures at work but i work at NISSAN and my FAST is updated by the month ..... Why i have a copy right next to me on DISC

2 door coupe

Dont jump start it because where ever you go you better hope they have a new battery for you. Get a new battery. Alarm's do that when your have no battery or disconect the battery from the car.

Its cheaper to get a car that was original with a turbo because its always been there and didnt cost anything extra in the first place and turbos are common now so i see them on car sales cheaper than NA's. Its a GTS-4 so you will have to get a stagea RB25 or an RB26 if you want to fit it easily. The RWD engine fits but it needs a bit of work done to fit it. It will cost you a few thousand to do this, especialy with a RB26. You might be a few weeks without a car aswell if it matters. Also, my engine gave way at 160,000km. It was using 5L of oil (40w-70) every 500km to keep it going. It's a GTS-4 and work at NISSAN and it took me 6 months to get all the parts and i was doing the fastest orders and stuff availible, a lot of engine stuff for the NA is not available anymore so i has to get 40thou genuine pistons and ACL bearings, new genuine crankshaft and heaps more bits and it was a headace to find the stuff. Cost me thousands and after the rebuild i got 20kW out of a newer fresher bigger engine, it was not worth it. I have always thought rb25's to be fragile as f**k, but i cant say that its a fault because they get thrashed. Just dont bother with a NA engine you get no where if you dont have LOTS of money to spend on it.

It could be so many thing its to hard to say what it is over the net. I had the problem with my leaky injectors that gave that lumpy start and stall in cold mornings then second start was like a brand new car(fuel presure regulator has the exact same symptoms). My friends car did the same thing but the fuel pump was not holding pressure after 8 hours and air would get into the fuel lines and if your primed the pump it would just confuse you more because the air bubble would stay in the fuel piping causing us to think it was somthing else. If you want to try at temp sensor change the temp sensorwith 2 pins. Its not to for from your top radiator hose and you will see a single pin sensor for your temp gauge also side by side. The only one that you need to change is the 2 pin one as the other one only is a signal for the cluster in the dash. They are cheap, around $70.

I also have this problem at the moment and the bell houseing gets caked in oil after just 1 week of driving and its been doing it for the 5000km (1 year) its been in there. I think lightweight shock proof is not worth anything anymore because i saw a track evo the other week use it and after 1 day it came out black????????? What the point if it cant stay in the box or if it can it just goes black with heat stress...........changing to AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR Synthetic Extreme Pressure next service.

Dont waste your money on a heavy duty clutch, the friction disc is no different between a regular clutch and heavy duty one its just the pressure plate. Having a heavy pressure plate in a NA can do more harm than good as it can put a large load of stress on the bearings in the gearbox and you will get a rumble from the gearbox everytime you take off. Save yourself 30% of the price by getting a normal one that will not be any different to you.

When the 4WD light is on go to the boot and look at the ECU in there, there is a L.E.D that flashes. If it flashes 7 times slowly and then follows with 5 fast then that's the throttle position sensor. Which i think it could be because my car did the exact same thing.

Is there a difference in the design of the r32 and r33/r34 blocks? I know i could not align my 4WD sump onto a near new r33 RWD block as they were a different shape to the 4WD block. When i rebuilt my engine i had to bore the old block out 40 thou to compensate, ended up better anyway. EDIT: maahhh bad O.P., i thought you were wanting to keep it 4WD =/

it sounds like the hydraulics in the valve body are playing up or maybe the oil pump is not driving correctly and not supplying the right pressure for the valve body work. Best take it to a specialist as auto boxes are not easy like manuals and all makes and models are different in there own ways.

No, the block is a different shape because of the diff/sump, you will need a RWD block. Its going to be better and cheaper for you to buy a RB25.

Weather Shields? If so they are an accessory and need to be made specialy, they never really make them anymore (maybe even not available) so you would need like $800 so lets hope its not weather shields. U-shaped hose ontop of cover, 11826-75T10 is $25(Ordered one for my car and got it 2 days ago so "in stock" but i need it really so there B/O Japan) Oil seals are 13207-84A00 are $7ea (In stock in sydney warehouse so overnight)

Yeah i had a look into it and the hubs you are going to need are the WC34 4WD stagea hub or R33 GTR hub as there the same. The spline of the hubs will fit inside of the wheel bearing housing because the rear wheel bearing on a R33 GTS-4 is the same part number as WC34 and R33 GTR wheel bearings 43280-AA300(LH) 43281-AA300(RH) <----- wheel bearing part numbers suit R33 GTR and GTS-4. So the hub spline will fit straigh in.

Thats wrong I can order you them they are 40210-05U00 $190ea. i work at Central coast Nissan so if you wanted to pick up or i guess i can meet you somewhere for a small delievery fee?

THIS IS FOR GTS-4 Use front GTR hubs because the Knuckles assembly in a GTR and GTS-4 are the exact the same part.i dont know why someone would change them as stated above if there the same Part number???40010-05u01 (RH knuckle GTR and GTS4) 40011-05u01 (LH knuckle GTR and GTS4). Only thing i can think of is when you disassemble the knuckle and hub you might have to change your wheel bearing if it looks worn so the advantage of getting a GTR assembly is by not pulling the hub and knuckle apart you can get away without changing the wheel bearing. You can't use GTS-t Hubs because they have a different shape where they bolt up onto the knuckle because the knuckle is just compleatley differnt obiously because there is no driveshaft there. Any suspention in the front of a r33 GTS-4 is r33 GTR have always been the same for me, so all links and shocks and swaybars ETC. I fitted Nismo circuit racing links in my GTS-4 for a R33 GTR and they were a exact fit and also the GTR swaybar and shock and springs and radius rods even chassis rails are all the same as the GTR. In the rear because r33 and r34 GTS-4's and GT-4's NEVER came with HICAS from the factory the hubs are some weird hub that only NON-HICAS skylines have so im not to sure. Im looking at the info for r33's i have at work but there are 8 different driveshafts in the rear and about 6 different knuckles so i dont know if anything will match up. I think you might have to change the whole cradle so if you got a GTR set up you can change the driveshafts and shocks and knuckles. I know that will work because the flange on the driveshaft of the GTR-4 that bolt up the the R200 rear diff are the same GTS-4 and GTR so i think your going to have to buy a whole GTR cradle for the rear ......... compleate with driveshafts and brakes and suspention. maybe just change front????? lol

Yeah it just needs to be a ECU for series 1 or series 2 specific if hes leaving it stock or it will idle wrong and wont rev over 3000rpm. The wiring hardness's are also series 1 or 2 specific but not so important if the differences are turbo and NA (already stated those above). A power FC is a ecu that can tune itself around sensors like the AFM etc etc, so if you want to change things like BOV,Injectors etc etc you can work around stalling isues and other things like idle and tune the car but because your using sensors to do it you have a limit to power and how well it really works. With a MAP readable ECU it reads manifold pressure basicly its a better way to calculate everything, way more power, way more accurate and dont need to use things like air flow meters.

In the end you could use the ECU you have now aswell. Just saying you can use any ECU but because they have different features E.G. a r32 GTS-T one would be fine but you wont be able to have VTC. Best thing for you to do is look into a AFM tuneable ECU or even better a MAP-able ECU as they are a lot more fun.

r33 and r34 GTS-4's dont have HICAS. They never left the factory with HICAS

RB25(4WD) stagea motor. Its just a turbo gts-4 engine so it will fit no problem and also RB26 will fit in no problem but with more parts needing to be changed ... obviously It will work fine with the loom you have now but not very tidy, they are different looms. You will spend more money keeping your old loom because you will need a boost controller or you will be stuck at about 6 psi. But if your looking for over 200kw + in the near future then your going to end up with a boost controller anyway so fit it while you have the easy chance. You can use a r33 ECU being a manual because stagea manuals are pretty rare or even a 300zx ECU with board modifications and NISTUNE (good power ) . It all depends on what you want to do. The sump is not a problem. Its the same on a stagea as a GTS-4

Its nothing to worry about and they would probably last 100000km with the rumble and also if you have a heavy duty clutch it will EXTREMELY make the bearings loud in the box, its called gearbox rumble. I got this when i changed to a heavy clutch and Ive only got a GTS-4 ....... so i have a GTR gearbox that's got no power going through but it still did this and looking into the problem i could see its not power related just that no one changed the oil in my car till i did its 160,000km service. My filler plug had about 1cm of metal dust on it, no shavings just really fine metal like powder. Anyway i found something Nismo sent to a supplier about this.

Adjusting is the same as a series 1, just twist the sensor left to right. Pin 1 is the power for the TPS Pin 2 is the TPS opening signal Pin 3 is the earth You can check the sensor by reading the resistance of pin 2 and 3, With the accelerator not pressed it should be 0.4V, with it pressed fully it should be 5.0V and half depressed around 2~3V, IF you measure the resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 thats for the TPS SWITCH. Because the sensor is a 2-1 setup. It should have 0 resistance not pressed and then increase when you press it. The test you said above sounds like reading voltage of the harness which is just probing the 1st terminal and earth it on anything, it should be 5V. You can check other parts of the harness but you need a diagram of the ECU so you know which terminals to probe etc etc Also if you unplug any sensor the car just puts itself into a fault mode and will idle at 1500rpm flat.