central coast person

All cars with belt driven power steering have a power steering pressure switch with sends a message to a AAC valve which idles the engine up to stop it from stalling with the load created on the crankshaft. Your car is a GTS-4 simply look in your engine bay at the fire wall and if the engraving is ENR33 (6 numbers) then thats a GTS-4. Slip light is simply loss of traction, the system is RWD and depending on how much slip the computer reads from a lot of sensors about 100 times a second it will send power to the wheels anywhere from 0-50% to the front. All GTS-4's that are R33 and R34 NEVER came with HICAS (4 wheel steer) from Nissan because they are non-turbos and with the 4WD parts in the car making excess weight they did not follow in fitting it. The GTS comes with it because its RWD and 60kg lighter. I wouldnt worry about HICAS though, everyone sees the light sooner or later and just locks the 4 wheel steer.

Try JS auto electrical at annandale. They have worked on a lot of lambo's and race cars. Or another good place is MRC castle hill they do a lot of skylines.

Where are you located?

Your lucky i work for Nissan and had time to look today . This is the error codes for ALL r33's with 4WD so its legit and i found it in some old book which has more info than the net. 43 = ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit 77 = ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit It obiously points to a break somewhere in your circuit so i would check all fuses/relays then conectors then earths and lastly wires or maybe the interal wiring is worn in a moduel/motor just check everying. i had a problem with my car idling at 1500rpm and my 4WD light came on and my ATTESA ECU flashed 75 for TPS, when ever i used anything electrical and that includes my brake light or headlight or wipers etc etc and i was stumped for 2 years and spent ($6000 COST PRICE!! probably $12000 retail) on work just think i might fix it one day changing things and found the other day it was a earth cable from the starter motor to body just under the black fuse box in the engine bay, it needed a bit of sand paper and tightening. Most likley wiring..........

Where are you reading these faults from? the attessa computer in the rear of the car has its own little L.E.D on the unit that flashes when there are faults, it wont flash on the cluster like a RWD skyline does, it will only turn the 4WD light on which is basicly telling you to look in the boot at the module and count the flashes there. The series of flashes you are talking about wont output from the unit in the boot. If your reading them from the cluster then its 77 for rear heated oxygen sensor circuit and 43 is Throttle Position Sensor but i dont know what its doing if your reading the flashes from the unit in the boot.

You are thinking of the module fitted to a car that pulls the voltage current out of the coolant in the block so it cant rust as easily. I sell a lot of stuff for all types of rust prevention at my dealership. There is upper body and under body, it comes in a tin can that is 1 liter.

woops, yeah i did mean clutch master

Its not hard, maybe for your first time doing one but all you need to do for a skyline is, turn into a midget so you can fit in the footwell....... kiddin You need to go into the engine bay and undo the brake master cylinder from there, then in the footwell undo the bracket mounting points. Thats all.

Clutch pedal bracket - http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19488&cat=277&page=1 Its pretty common if you have a heavy duty clutch.

Blind_elk after 2 years i found it last night. Its was the earth to the starter motor, it had been painted when at the panel beaters i guess and stuck back ontop of the paint so im pretty frigen happy after changing all the sensors in the car. Cant believe how often people stuff up with skylines when you dont work on it yourself. Cheers everyone for the input.

When you go to fill up with petrol do you get that "PSSHH" sound when taking the cap off, also on hard right turns you will get a stronger than usual fuel smell ....... if so then its the fuel filler cap. Other than that there is a million and one things to try.

Cleaning the cold start regulator will do nothing as it is only a valve that opens and shuts. The disc is half open at 20 degrees celsius making the idle about 1400RPM, so when you start your car and its starts that second time if it idles high when cold and low when hot then the regulator is operating fine. As for power FC, it could be running a tune that is able to handle a rich cold start and yes you cold have had a faulty ECU but i don't know why or how the ECU would be fine the 2nd start and reset hours after only when its cold. Then in summer this problem does not occur (well for me), that's how i figured out it was a leaky injector then i pulled the rail out and primed the pump and saw it drip. 08r3308 you should do this because your going to have to eliminate possibilities with so may different opinions.

The fuel we have in australia has probably wrecked the injectors. You can get them cleaned but its about $200 and you run the risk of it doing nothing as they could be damaged. A set from JECS which are the genuine nissan ones cost less when you buy them from USA online than Nissan selling them to you. Its less then $600 too your door for the 'Genuine ones', or maybe its time to upgrade them. Yes this has happened to my car, i just know that its injectors because if it were a sensor the problem would be intermitant where as our was just on start up and the fuel was vapourised on the first few cranks leaving the 2nd start up to not run a lumpy rich start. *NOTE if you have seen car run a RICH map they run the same but constantly so that how i knew it was fuel related

Yes, i work for Nissan parts and i ordered one for my r33 the other day. It was $90 cost so about $160 retail, r32 should be near the same price. if you live on the central coast i could order it in under warranty so its cheaper for you.

Its your injectors, they are leaking when it gets cold. If you want to check this, prime the fuel pump 5 times before you crank the car (when its a cold start, if its warm the fuel will just vaporize). Your car will start up and run rougher than usual and stall faster. You can also check this by pulling your injector rail out and pull the electrical plugs on them and prime the pump and you will see them drip fuel.

Set my TPS at 0.40V for a few weeks now and problem is not as bad but its will still happen if i use my headlights and degmister and rear brake lights all at once. Its an electrical load thing. It wont happen when i pull a sensor out and fault the car until i turn it off and turn it back on. Also when all out and got a new AFM............all i have now is CAS and Coils............ so pissed off with this problem as driving in the rain i have to choose to not have one of these on and if i do my car is so hairy to drive around corners slowly as is wants to buck and kick.

yeah i was only refering to the boost turbo wiring as its not ledgit. im obcessive compulsive with my car. Yeah the panel for the intercooler pipe work is already almost punched out

???? all the motor will need is the old sump?????? what motor? If its a RWD motor the block is no where near the same shape as the sump to bolt it on, you will need a stagea engine not a skyline one And yes ECU and looms will need to be replaced and also some body work for intake pipeing

[And thats why i dont understand when people say i would never let my child do this or that i will take it away from them.......... are people that dumb to see when you take something away from a baby they want it more. Well it doesn't stop for teenagers

Pointless law, i have debated about this on a team. There are positives about this but overall its negative, the number of deaths have increased since this has been introduced and you have to look into why this is happening. Common cause is the cars with superchargers and turbo are funnily enough safer cars, they come with airbags and larger brakes and better suspension etc etc. An example is all non turbo skylines have the same brakes as a N15 pulsar, they are a sliding caliper that is 2 piston at the front and 1 piston in the rear, thats very poor for what the car is. But the turbo's come with a totaly different designed caliper ......... this is always the case with different models of cars of all makes no matter what it is. So first off P platers are limited to unsafe cars. Also as stated about someones friend in this thread, they have a VW golf. They're fast cars and also cheap, there is a GTI at the moment for sale for $16,000 and im sure it can be made cheaper so a p plater can afford this. Story is cars of the 21st century can be a 4cyl and as fast as a v8 from 30 years ago. Politicians simply don't think very well. All cars that are 1990+ are capable of going 120km/h and higher and that is a deadly speed to hit a tree at, if a p plater wants a fast car that's legal they can easily get something capable of 180km/h or higher without interfering with the law. P platers cant afford to look after there cars as well as more financially stable people and so this just leaves there cars unsafe ....... im going to stop here because the list goes on and on and on but i see your point of view. Myself, i don't take note to what car they are driving because its probably more safer than most other p plater cars, it comes down to the driver driving that car you see. Ask yourself if your children would hurt themselves and friend because if you have to take something away from them enforceability thats also dangerous. My mother taught me well and loaned me money for my skyline and i did get a non turbo because the law is the law but i think the turbos i have test driven are a total different car with much larger sway bars and brakes etc etc. Its just stupid, its like a band-aid law to shut people up.

If there was a problem the ECU in the boot will flash a red L.E.D when a fault is found, check in the boot under the rear parcel shelf. The thing is the slip light is not a warning light for a fault and the 4WD light is your warning light for the system. If it is it will flash a series of slow 1 second flashes, pause for 2 seconds then followed by a series of fast 0.5 second L.E.D flashes. E.G. 1..1..1..1..1..1..1 .... 1.1.1.1.1.1 76 means Throttle Position Sensor fault. Because its the slip light it wont bring a fault up. I think it may just come down to a wheel alignment and balance, It is a very sensitive system and something like uneven tyre pressures can cause the slip light to come on.

Yeah, i have not changed my CAS or AFM, i really have changed like everything else to brand new in my car, no tech at work knows what it is and wont fault ........ I guess it could be the soldering for the hot wire in the AFM as my car has a lumpy start in the morning like my AFM is un pluged.

change your cold start regulator, it will fix it. i work for nissan and can order one for you if you want

i've got the lumpy start up unless i rev it a bit or let it die and 2nd crank around is always as it should be as if it never had the problem, ive always thought it was the hot wire where the AFM is and the switch board ontop just needs re soldering but have never gotten around to it even though i have rebuilt the engine ........... maybe tonight Also if the AFM is faulty it can cause what looks to be lumpy timing just because the engine has no idea of the air volume.

cheers man, Yours is only idling to 1100rpm so its sounds more like a vaccume leak more than anything, AFM cause a low lumpy idle not a high idle. Also a stuck open cold start regulator is just as plausable as a vac leak. My cars cold start was faulty and it idled around 1100rpm and when i changed it it only idled that high at cold start and came down to 700 once warm so check those two things first. i just changed the AAC-IACV valve and it didnt fix the problem but its changed the problem for me, my car only does this now when i have an electrical load on the engine!!!!!! I turn my headlights on and it goes to 1500rpm and i turn then off and it drops back to 700.........then if i use something else electrical like putting my rear demister on and maybe my indicator or use my brake or even the interrior lights it will also make the idle rise once i hit a certain electrical load on the engine. Once i turn something off it lowers the electrical load and my idle just drops straight back to 700rpm where it always has been and i want it. P.S. the tps is now adjusted to 0.4V at idle with the new AAC-IACV and it is not causing the idle issue or bring up a fault anymore. But i want to fix this because i cant really drive at night because my car idles so high and bucks and runs rough when there is an electrical load