central coast person

It would'nt be the ECU for a 2.7 non turbo, it was fine for the first 6 months after the rebuild with not 1 problem and felt stock. Checked for leaks but i have all new gaskets and pipes on the car, the throttle body is not leaking either, tried setting idle again and it just went up to 1500rpm. i spun the throttle position sensor all the way around to make an error so the car would idle at the 750 mark, definatly has to be the AAC-IACV valve because it seems like the motor is stepping up the idle because it thinks the TPS is faulty, so i have ordered one to see if i can fix it. Will post back if it fixed it.

Yeah i can see that in the manual how its a switch and sensor in one and 2 different tests. Its 0 ohms when fully closed and changes when you apply throttle, i cant see why i have to set the TPS to a very low voltage (0.22V) to get a good idle when the factory says 0.4V at idle, either way adjusting the TPS has no change in ohms only voltage, it only changes ohms when i give it throttle and it twists the mechanism on the back of the TPS.

Its just a stock one, never been touched, never pulled the plug out on it either. The rear ATTESSA ecu logged the fault but as the TPS is part of the circuit in the ATTESSA system.

Hey guys, i have a problem with my car idling at 1500rpm. I got the problem a year ago at a set of lights, my idle was hunting but only on occasion and has gotten worse ever since. Now it happens 99% of the time sometime while driving, brings up the 4WD light on my dash and its constantly at 1500rpm at idle. Obviously the ECU knows there is something wrong so its logging the fault code 75 in the ECU in the boot which is a TPS error, i always thought it was the TPS as well so i ordered a BRAND NEW one and installed it tonight and still have this problem...... Car is fairly stock and i work for nissan parts so everything i fit is brand new, its got a Apexi pod filter, i have rebuilt it changing it from 2.5L to 2.7L, full gasket kit, Air flow meter, IACV (2nd air regulator), TPS, 90% of the engine internals .......... loads more bits and pieces and that's just on the engine! Basically the car doesn't even have 1 broken clip in it. The only thing i have not changed is the alternator , coolant temp sensors, Crank angle sensor , injectors, coilpacks.....(all tested and are spot on what the need to be) i haven't changed the AAC valve as i cant figure out the specs for testing it. My new and old TPS's are both 0.4V when tested with a multimeter and when fully open are 5.0V so both are what the manual says. I can make it idle as if TPS has not problem at all, i twist the TPS almost all the way to the right and from 1500RPM its just plunges back to the stock 650RPM. In doing so i check the consult to see the voltage its been changed to when adjusting and its 0.22V not the stock 0.4V,anything over 0.22V and it jumps to 1500RPM. So i cant understand why i have to adjust the TPS to a lower voltage to make the car idle like there's no problem at all ..... maybe related to car almost stalling when i stop at the lights, i cleaned the AAC 3 times to try fix this but it only improved the car slightly so all i can guess is the AAC valve is finished. any input would be good, cheers.

sweet, i was thinking master or slave as the pressure is going down over a period of time and the clutch doesn't clunk and drag when it i tighten the master up. Also didn't mention my friction point is half way on the pedal when i tighten it so ill take a punt for the master cylinder first. Working for Nissan parts means its only $110 new

Clicking when dis-engaging the clutch means the clutch pedal box is broken and it needs to be replaced. You should also change the clutch pedal bracket or upgrade to the nismo one. If you dont fix this the pedal can snap at the welds on the firewall. Look it up in other threads in this section for more info on it. My exedy is only 10,000km old and the thrust bearing is noisy aswell. You will never break anything by leaving it noisey.

yes this is a very common problem. It can also be temporarily fixed by taking it off and giving it a clean with contact cleaner and wire drier. But you will need are new one they are a common fault. Mine is playing up and only in cold weather.

yes, it grabs about 3cm from the floor and not very much play. If its on a hill ill have to rev is to 4000RPM and take it out all the way to get going.

Havnt posted for ages! Anyway my clutch isnt working very well. The clutch has been in the car for 10,000km which is when i rebuilt the engine compleatly and it hasnt been well since then. It felt stiff but i expected it to as the rebuild was 9 months. We adjusted the slave cylinder (the adjuster behind the clutch pedal) and fixed the problem (shifting was easy as using one finger) thinking it just needed adjusting. But over time (10,000km) it lost its pressure and every 1000km's it would get harder and harder to shift, so the problem came back over a period of time. A month ago i pretty much couldnt drive it. Shifting from 2nd-5th it would be almost imposible to shift up and down (very soild) and sometimes grind and 1st i would have to use the weight of my body to shove it in and when it did go in it would make the whole car thud. It also clunks and makes the car shudder if i take off only while rolling and releasing the pedal, stand still it takes off like a normal clutch, though if its on a hill i have to rev to about 4000RPM so i can take off. For a temporary fix i have spun the adjuster to max and the problem is back only a month down this time and im starting to not be able to select gears already. i dont know what it is and im not losing and clutch fluid and there are no noises but the shifter gets very loose feels like the bushes are worn but when i tighten the slave cylinder the shifter wont jiggle anymore. It was a Exedy heavy duty kit and the box is the GTS-4's version of the FS5R30A (all thats really different is the transfer case). Clutch was a OEM grade exedy before rebuild and although sliped didnt do this................. Any help?

Also working for Nissan Parts i can understand why they have knocked this back for warranty, the warranty price of them is about $2,000 and this has probably never happened before so the evidence the engineers have would be solid. I would'nt say Nissan treat there customers bad, they warrant 95% of parts that have claims made against them, most of the parts that break are commonly the same thins over and over so its not new to them, you can drive a y61 Patrol in with a bubble on the dash the size of sand and it will be swapped out by the arvo for warranty because its so common. They will even give warranty to a car thats passed its warranty by some time if its a common enough problem. I would just put this down to its price and evidence from the engineers and that it has not occured with these rims yet, remember nissan also have to do there own damage claims and warrantys to who ever makes the parts for them if they are a common enough thing or else the company would have no money at all.

falken 452's are a good tyre at around $300 average each. Most sites give them a 4.5/5 overall for street tyre and they're designed for wet weather use

It doesnt sound like a AFM because it would be eratic constantly. It sounds like missfire, did you use water to wash your engine bay???

lots of people sell them, look on EBAY or SAU for sale section. I did the conversion to my Series 1.5 The guards are also different, the series 2 ones are longer than the series 1 guards, there is a 3mm gap with the headlights and guards but its not much bigger than gaps on the rest of the car so i just kept them series 1. Thats it for the front of the car, but if you have a M-spec body kit ok a series 1 like me you will have to wire a Series 2 front bar plug(s) to where the other ones were to fit into the indicators

individual throttlebodys fitted are about $5000 engine rebuild with bore and hone and 50thou 11:1 compression pistons is about $5000 do it yourself price good exhaust system is about $2000 ECU and tune is about $3000 fuel system upgrade is about $2000 thats just a rough $17,000 for 170Kw-180Kw thats why people like spending 17,000 on a turbo motor more than a N/A I rebuilt my engine and put 50thou pistons in and spent like $2000 getting everything cost price and worked myself on it and it did nothing really its about 120Kw at all four

dont get a pod filter, just keep your intake stock and get a hi-flow panel filter. Your ecu and sensors will like that more.

You would be better off looking at the overalls of a car...SSS pulsars are by far the fastest affordable P plater car going around because we know a lotus or somehing is just a joke With my GTS-4 its was pretty slow so i rebored and honed it out too a 2.7L ( + compleate engine rebuild) and a exedy heavy duty clutch (thats all it needed) and it was already faster than a NA supra by far and lots of other cars but thats only speed. The supra's brakes out do NA skyline brakes two times over so if you come through corners the supra was always entering faster. But then again once im off my P's a rb26 just drops right into the car with the added adition of wiring looms and a ecu so its just what suits me not whats best on papper. Just giving examples, you should buy what best suits you, not what is the best on papper.

Are you sure that is what you are getting? Also the buzzing in the boot, sure its not the fuel pump? The only part that would make a buzzing noise around that area is the actuator for pumping the Matic-D around the diff and transfer case. Its a $4500 part that rarely breaks so i wouldnt worry. You should get the system COMPLEATLY bleed the propper way and then new fluid in there to eliminate that option.

Could be me man i drive to nissan at wyong every morning from 7:30 for work. I didnt see you but I saw a black r35 this arvo at kariong traffic lights

Are you able to post the centre console, i would pay postage. Also does the latch still have that spring to keep the lid closed.

If you want to change to extractors its a good idea to change your exhaust system to a 2.5inch with a high flow cat and rear muffler (straight through). This way you will be doing it once and the right way ...... response in the engine changes but not a power difference. The car sounds better though

front propeller shaft is the correcet term driveshaft is what the CV's are attached too theres no point in doing it becuse oil will come out the transfer case and running it without oil wont be good, you will need to plug the hole up with a special tool just for that

The caniser in the boot runs down to the actuator on the O\S\R of the car, it pumps fluids to the transfer case and when the slip light is activated it then runs too the rear diff and is pumped around there aswell, then back too the canister. It does this because it is a high pressured pump that activates clutch packs in the transfer case, this is how the attesa system works. Do not take the fluid out of the clutch packs with be distroid and you will have to spend a lot of money and all the parts with be EX jap. The fluid is a ATF fluid, at nissan we sell nissan Matic D which is what they used stock. You can take the front propeller shaft out but thats it.

Nissan no longer makes r32 gearboxes. The alternative part No. for your box is 32010-23U60. This box is the r33 GTS-4 gearbox so you may want to consider upgrading.

There are so many things to come in to play when buying a car. You should really get hold of a workshop manual for the car and read towards the bottom of the manual. It will come up with common problems on the car and the symtoms and fixes for all these electrical and mechanical problems. These are a guide line too helping you with getting a car thats running well. Its the best way because you will forget to check somthing while you are there, guaranteed!