WhiteHot_R33

WA_R32 - "this was the cruise that i joined i think did anyone see a wine red r32 gts-t" Hey man I saw you and spotted the SAUWA stickers. . . as we were going towards Freo, i was driving a white S1.5 R33. . . had a great time the map was good, just a shame that there was a bit of police attention. . . bring on the next one!!

R&R anybody?!!!!! can you list all your mods? you would be better off paying for a diagnostic/dyno run than rushing out to get $500 worth of coil packs. . . In the 2 years Ive had my car, it has: leaned out from a dirty AFM from Hks mushroom(oiled) filter and a weak fuel pump. ping!! Hit R&R on the stock computer from too much boost - feels like the brakes are on, it just slows down, but it goes away. Missed with stock coils at around 4500 rpm (PFC) - like hitting the limiter, it pops and misses etc sound like one of those?

Hey man what sort of breather system is on your motor? ie catch can? my car went for a few weeks blowing white smoke similar to yours, it turns out the cank case was pressurising due to blocked breather lines. this was causing oil to blow out the rear turbo seal. doesn't sound right but when I replaced the hoses to the catch can it went away have a look!

Cheers man, i used .18 for the latency correction, believe it is .71 - .528? got the .71 from google and the .528 from pauls's PFC FAQ. . . feel free to enlighten me if Im wrong

Just an update on todays work. . . thanks to all those who offered advice. Everything went pretty well, I used vice grips to loosen the injector cap screws. Then with the help of a mate, we inserted a screwdriver into the hole in each side of the injectors and levered them out over the shaft of another screwdriver, across the screw tabs. (four screwdivers) if that make sense. we re-used the o-rings, there's two on each injector, one top and bottom. once it was all back together i punched in some correction and fired it up. . . my concern is the idle is very rough. like its on 5 cylinders. it definately goes ok on boost and driving around. just idles like poo any suggestions? cheers

Hey man, great guide. . . Im going to attempt this on the weekend, nismo 555cc's into RB25. so you didn't have to replace any parts apart from the injectors? just re-used the old o-rings? i want to make sure i dont need any other bits before i pull it apart! cheers!

Hey vault13 as everyone else has said get a dyno run and proper tuneable ecu. . . I know that i was pretty annoyed with the lag in my car without an EBC as it didn't get full boost until 4500 rpm and then it took off. . . no mid/bottom end at all. with a Profec B and PFC the car is incredible on the street, full boost by 2700 RPM and I sometimes short shift whereas I used to have to go to redline so i didn't drop off boost. they are only $385 now from some traders and really do make a difference! so does a PFC!!

hey man you shouldn't have any trouble as others have mentioned. the only probs with my car have resulted from mods on it, either from the previous owner, or myself ive had the car for 2 years now. I'd say buy one that is already heavily modded as long as its in good nic and well tuned etc because you'll likely get bitten buy the bug so save yourself some money in the long run!

Hey Lithium don't suppose you have a dyno graph handy? whats your peak power/boost used to get there? Im watching with interest because Im close to upgrading myself and am sorta tossing up between the HKS GTRS or a garrett 3076 .63 rear but 52T. . . emphasis on mid range but with 300+ hp atw

You wrote earlier: "and will the car be running rich after a bigger fuel pump is installed?" Yes if your stock pump is f**ked and you replace it with an appropriate working pump then your mixtures will richen up, provided nothing else is causing it to lean out like the AFM/ECU etc. The car will run as rich as the ECU desires, no more. which could be 10-11:1 or so at WOT K?

Hey guys Im certainly no expert on this stuff but just to add a bit more: dodgsun - The reason they said 040 suits you is the style of inlets on the pumps, r32s have a conventional flat bottom fuel tank and have no worries with the mesh bottom on the 040, whereas the R33 tank bottom is not flat and they need a threaded bottom to accept the standard pickup tube and filter sock. Hence 044. . . The Walbro pumps have been tested and shown to be no good at higher power because they lack the flow at high pressure needed for rising rate regulators and high boost. Bosch are noisy but you can only hear it at idle with the stereo off or outside the car, no big deal IMHO. If you rubber mounted it it would be quiter Im sure. SKY RYAN - changing pumps will not effect the mixture because the FPR sets the pressure not the pump, so it will keep the same pressure with more flow available. . . Why don't you change your fuel filter as well anyways just to eliminate the possiblilty? What a novel!! Later

Hey man, I was in this position about a year ago, pretty stock R33, Leaning out. . . Ended up getting an 044 through HyperdriveMS. . . They fit with a bit of modding and will pump right down to the bottom of the tank no probs. . . Just sounds like your boot is full of bees. Be sure to check your AFM is not dirty, especially if you run an oiled pod. as this will stop the AFM from reading all the airflow and the ECU will be leaning out. if you get one through the traders on here they are pretty cheap now i think! good luck

Hey all Had the PFC for ~ 6 weeks now, it quickly warms up to 60 and then slowly comes up towards 80, but sometimes never gets there, like sits on ~ 76. this means that the car is not running optimally until 80 then? I am going to Kwinana Plex for street drags tonight, should I ensure the car warms up to 80 before racing? Or can someone explain how to change the setting on the HC?? much thanks!!

You know I'm in Dan! probably from Mandurah meet, see you all on the day. . . Jays

"weird i thought the only difference with spec s and r was sun roof and 6 disk stacker. and the spec r was a little slower due to extra weight? unless the jap versions had more power and the aussie delivered as the same" AUS SPEC S = 200 hp S14 config motor AUS SPEC R = as above but more trim options JDM SPEC S = N/A Motor JDM SPEC R = 250 HP BB turbo, bigger injectors, tune etc. This is the general consensus, but there is still arguement about it. . . so if you get an imported JDM R spec you get a better motor and the possibility of plenty of JDM trim options the debate continues!!