Bl0r

Depends what brand and model, they all will vary. Generally twins can handle a fair bit more power than a single plate.

Yes. it's very normal.

Congratulations, you have a twin plate clutch. lol

Where are you located????

bamp

pic's attached, also have a stock 34gtr intercooler, $100 pickup, with the pipes too. Still missing pic of JJR intercooler. will get that up when I can

Hi all, Please see my for sale list below and feel free to send me a message on here if you are interested, I'll check them daily; leave your number too and I will call you back. I'm going overseas in 10 days, so what isn't within that time frame will probably have to wait a few weeks till i get back. Item 1: R34GTR PowerFC in good condition, only in car for about 2000k's - comes with hand controller (it's the new style LED screen) AND FC boost control kit! - it's missing the two gold in/out nipples for the boost hoses to go into. $750 Item 2: R34GTR HKS Hi-power Silent exhaust, 3000k old. no dings, great condition. $500 no gaskets Item 3: Rb26dett dump pipes, I have two sets, Stock BNR34 and Xforce split dumps. Xforce are brand new, stocko's are used. $250 either pair. Item 4: BNR34 JJR intercooler (100mm core) travelled 15k, very good cond, no dings to tubes. $200 Item 5: Unknown brand TE37 copies (Rota maybe), Powdercoated gloss black, 19x9.5 (Two wheels only), no damage, no gutter rash. have achilles ATR's (19/275/30) on them with a good amount of tread left. Don't know offset off the top of my head, but they fit the 34 well. $400 Item postage is possible if the sale is soon, otherwise need local pickup thanks, Pics will be added below tonight.

me + 1 passenger

it comes off that black stock BOV return line under your pods, not what the trust kit replaces. Those lines go around the back of your engine to your boost solenoid (if you have it plumbed up stock). you also shouldn't need to take out any lines from your turbo's... if you have, put them back please

Forgot to add one more thing; R34 GTR stock turbo's, could use a rebuild, $200 for the pair, regards, dave

more stuff added! wont let me edit original. So here are the bits: 3" de-cat, used, $30 stock r34 GTR manifolds,, used, $200 stock r34 gtr front pipes, used, $100 stock r34 gtr dumps, used, $250 stock r34 gtr intercooler, used, no major dents or anything. comes with some unlucky JDM bugs mushed into the fins, I'll throw in the stock hoses too, $200 stock r34 gtr clutch, used, not sure of amount of meat left on the plate, was working fine before I upgraded, $200 Tune agent manifolds, used, stainless steel items, no leaks, performed well when I had them on, $100 stock r34 gtr injectors 444cc, used, $200 stock r34 gtr fuel pump, used $50 stock r34 gtr AFM's, used $75 for both And some more bits: Z32 AFM's, Genuine, come with tomei plugs, R34 GTR PowerFC with new type hand controller and boost solenoid kit, all near new - less that 1000km, these parts are in my car at the moment so you can come and see them working, they will be pulled out next week. $1500 for the lot Feel free to make an offer on individual bits. I'm selling because I am switching to MAP sensors. Prefer to sell as a bundle. cheers, Dave

I have the 800cc SARD's - The units fit right in on the stock rail; I didn't have to lower it or anything, But I did modify the plugs slightly to fit the stock harnesses... they fit and work fine now. I basically just shaved down the tabs on the injectors so they don't collide with the stock harnesses and clipped them on.

Hi SAU, I have some unused parts I have no need for, prices are firm. (because they're low) - BOSCH 044 Fuel pump, brand new - selling because I'm going for a smaller intank setup. - $100 - OEM Nissan N1 oil pump, brand new - selling because I want to use a Tomei pump instead. - $150 - 2x Z32 AFM's (apparently) I got them off Ebay, they don't have badges, same dimensions as my z32's, never used, to be honest they are most likely knock off's, but if you want them - $40 for both - 2x Xforce Rb26dett dumps, HKS style, brand new, come with gaskets - selling because im sticking to stock 34 dumps and I have no time or inspiriation to take of my turbos again... - $250 for both Any questions please dont hesitate. As I said it's all dirt cheap, so I will politely not accept lower offers. Contact me on 0438 009 352 or email: [email protected] Parts are in Brisbane, Southside Thanks! Dave

SOLD! would you prefer monopoly money or Nigerian bank cheque?

Hi I'm interested in alot of the gear including the engine upto the flywheel, please contact me when you can, I've tried pm's and email with no success, cheers.

how does a H beam have lower rotational inertia? just a bit confused about that. over revving about tensile strength and cross sectional area? as far as i know that has everything to do with friction and heat --> seizing and pre-detonation. and also, everthing, more, plus, times, ten to the power of infinity to do with the spring rate on your valves. ie: too high revving the spring doesnt retract the valve fast enough and you have a collision and detonation. length has not been mentioned because its not a factor in a comparision between H and I beams. they both are the same length. even though theyre pretty much the same shit..... ill run some numbers for the F**k of it stay tuned.

hehe yea, dunno how that one works either. you would think there would have a valve in there too to stop pressure leakage after the SC is cut.

id say the problem is when you run them independantly into the same system your always going to be restricted by what the supercharger can pump out. you start pumping out more from your turbo, your charger gets a face full of it. if you want to run them together be prepared to cap your boost at the chargers limit. wlspn: "This months copy of Redline magazine (yes I know its sh*t but I get it for free) features a S15 with a BEE-R supercharger kit & a turbo. The magazine says that air is fed through the turbo, THEN through the supercharger, which being a mechanic is against everything I have been taught. Make of that what you will.... " the way im thinking this would work is: no matter which one spins up first, later, faster, whatever, youll never get any back pressure. its straight through setup. the outlets arent merging like a "Y", its just a straight line. say at 2000rpm the charger will be spinning and doing 5psi and the turbo will be doing 0psi, the charger will add power to the engine and create a vaccum between it and the turbo helping the turbo spool, because at this stage its sucking air through the turbo. when you hit say 4000rpm both are pumping out 10psi or somthing, then its even across the whole system, after this the turbo can keep on spinning up past 10psi which may be the capacity of the charger, the air will blow past your charger instead of back into it.

by 10 pound actuator, you mean a wastegate actuator? from what i gather your saying you pump 10psi out of two 1.5" inlets, one inlet being fed by a charger and one by a turbo? and this should be equivelent in power to a turbo pumping out 10psi into a 3" straight through setup? hehe, no. supercharger and turbo setups are difficult. the charge they pump in relation to their rpm is totally different, charger pressure graphs are linear, turbo graphs are curves. you can run a charger and a turbo, but not at the same time. you would need to make it sequencial somehow, which isnt really worth the headache. the same idea goes behind a sequencial turbo setup. use a smaller turbo for low end and a bigger turbo for top end. they dont do to well and its no use making it overly complicated. again its the same as putting two turbos on a rb26 of different sizes and matching their actuators to dump x amount of gas. its not really going to work well.

lower tolerances are better with most things. but others. not so much. like pistons for example, drag cars have larger clearances between pistons and walls, this is to account for a difference in thermal expansion and pancaking of the piston through axial straining. (poissons ratio? ) thats why they can sound very rattley at idle and then they go PWHAAAAAORRRRRRR *screech* - NEEEEIIRRRRRRRRRRROOOWWWWWWWWWW, and then FKNBANG!@ (if its a holden). so if your clearances are too low its going to seize and if you have it too high your going to get blowby and an unhappy cylinder wall and piston skirting. as far as everything else goes, you want it smooth with no play, not exactly "tight". as far as rattle goes, everyones heard it, especially when you push an old car in a low gear up a hill... its that eerr, rattling sound. even though i made mention of it in regards to conrods (disregarding the vibration caused) it damages your pistons and cylinder walls moreso than your conrods. its a normal thing (if you dont know how to change to a lower gear, or you drive an older automatic) and if you want to eliminate it by changing tolerances and inserting bigger cylinders, be prepared to seize your engine .

Strength in tension is irrelevant for “H” or “I” rods. The weakest points in tension will be at the circular connections, orbits or whatever you want to call them, their cross sectional area combined will be less than that of the body of the rod. Either that, or the pins depending on their areas. Buckling will occur in the middle of the rods, at the highest moment of inertia. Each of them by design has a weaker plane where they will buckle. The “I” rods will always buckle and gain in on its wider face (think about which way they’re used in buildings, they’re never used face up…). This is apposed to the H rods, which will tend to buckle towards the edges, or the outside of the rods. This direction is where most of the resultant shear forces and moments will occur in a connecting rod under normal conditions. With respect to this the “H” beam is less effective at holding normal loads common to an engine. piston play or rattle will induce higher shear stresses in each beam depending on which way the piston deflects. The most common way for it to deflect is back and forth along its free axis; here the “I” rod would be better again because it’s in a stronger plane. However! The worst part about this would be the increase vibration and the effects of vibration will be more severe for the “I” beam because it will promote deflection along its weaker face. Pistons can also twist under load. This will induce a torque and axial shearing and strain. Even though the highest points of rotation are on the outsides of this axis, you might assume the “I” beam will resist it better because it has more cross sectional area here. but because of its shape it will induce a high amount of strain before this comes into play. Basically the “I” beams are superior at supporting normal (as in no deflection or vibration; linear, on-axis) engine conditions or loads and the “H” beams are better at coping with abnormal (vibration, twists ...et cetera ...) engine conditions or loads. That isn’t to say that H beams can support higher HP applications. If you have a very good condition, decked, honed, rebuilt modified engine that runs smooth, I would go the “I” rods because, tuning permitted, they will be able to hold slightly higher amount of normal stress. But if you have major cam-age, stroker kit or a worn out older engine with more play in your parts like pistons and bearings Go with the “H” rods.

well, if you want a four door, AWD. go the rex. if you want a two door, rear wheel, 6 cylinder. go the 32. i am a genius.

durka durka.

with 6, pressure builds up in the plenum and is evenly distributed into cylinders when valves open. with a single, when the valve opens up it has to fill the plenum first and equalize pressure along all six inlets. with big turbo applications this is not really a problem because of the high pressure the turbo is pumping out. but for a more mild setup, or most setups, having a single throttle will mean less response. overall the reasoning behind using a single is to reduce turbulence and it would most definentally flow better for high hp apps. youll notice most single throttle body applications have a huge ass turbo sitting on the other side of the engine. usually a 1000hp thing imo.

....id prefer not to restrict its potency. so to speak. :laughing-smiley-014: =D