DaFuca

This is not true, it could be the front wheels are towing out, it could be worn bushes, or even a caster issue. How often are the tyres rotated, as the cars have such high caster normally to make steering lighter, this can be a common cause of inside edge tyre wear if tyres dont get rotated often enough. Take it to a GOOD wheel aligner or even a GOOD front end mechanic, and get them to have a look over the front, they will normally be a good starting place to ask for information.

Evil, the 595 is the better pattern, it holds better, and the tread is deeper, i would order the 595's and wait, be a better option. the 535's are the next step down from the 595's

Ok imagine this. if the wheel is leaning in at the top, then your camber is -ve. but if it is leaning out at the top then it is +ve. and unless you are driving on dead flat roads, like the euro freeways, then i would suggest -ve camber. as for the rear camber, unless it is doing radical things to your rear tyres, they wont alter the camber, they will normally set the rear up right through toe. if the camber is within specs.

The rear toe seems a little high, normally would be between 0.5 - 2.0mm in total on the rear of one of them. but the rest of it doesnt sound that bad. I prolly would of had the front toe set to about 1.5mm a side, 3mm in total. If your toe on the front was out by 10.5 before they did anything, it would of been feral to drive and been squeeling as you drove it in a straight line and f**king tyres in a few thousand km's.

When I saw this in my inbox, i could not resist to see what people had replied with.. I didnt know that the R33 GTS came out in 4 stud, but more to the point, why would anyone even think of redrilling a wheel, you make it weaker and if you are out by even 1 mm, it will create big vibrations through the car. get someone else to drill it that knows what they are doing, or, find a set of wheels.

Witht he common sized federal tyres over 18 inch, you can normally screw the RRP down a fair bit, I know that with a couple of sizes alone in the federal range, the RRP price is like 80% markup on purchase price, so keep an eye out for the best deals, also the price of federals dropped in all comon sizes about 2 months ago, and most tyre places havent passed the price drop onto the customers, so once again, ask a heap or questions and try to get the best price., I wouldnt pay anymore than $480 for any federal passenger tyre, unless it is the RS's then you will be paying a little bit.. keep that in mind.

94W is the load and speed rating on the tyre, the width is 255, the hiehg tof the tyre is 40% of the width (255) and the rim is 17"that is what them numbers stand for.

wheel alignments being out will not cause vibrations. I'd say either your suspention or wheel balance, but as it shouldnt cost you more than about $20 to get ya wheels balanced, i would do that first.

these few words that you are talking about, what do they say? it might tell you what brand they are.

I have lukus pads in my 2003 Holden Astra. they stop well, great for long distance, and heavy use, but they are as dusty as hell. Dont know what they would be like in a line, but let me know.

You have read the posts on all 3 of them tyres from other members, only you can make up your mind. Sure the toyo's are a good tyre, but are they $82 a tyre better than the federals? I dont think so personally but it is still up to you what you do. The best value for money would be the federal there, but you may get a little bit better grip out of the toyo, but i dont think that the little bit you will notice will be worth the jump in price. And I personally think that the federal and toyo's are better than the K104. cos I know that the K104's become noisey after about 15,000 - 20,000 km's, but you will only notice that if they last that long.

50 mm in a datto pattern, now that could be a little bit hard to find someone that would have them in stock. Dunno about up there in brisvagas, but down here in adelaide we have a place called galaxy products, they are an engineering business that actually make custom wheel nuts to suit what you are after, a little bit pricey, but might be worth a call if you have no other luck. You do know that most of the wheel nuts with the cap idea can be changed anyway, the caps on mos of the wheel nuts like that are only tacked on from the inside, with a hammer and a center punch you can take the caps off them. or wait long enough and chances are they will fall off them selves.

With the drag tyres that I have had to deal with, yes i have noticed that storing them does damage there life, if you store them in a hot place they will dry out like most tyres and start to crack, and if you store them in a cold place chances are they will get moisture and porus. I would probably contact somewhere like Rocket Industries and ask them. there link is. http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/search.php?menu=Tyres I hope that helped.

Glad to hear you didnt get nexen's..

Higher Tyre Pressures, New bushes and stuff, alignment.. and a few more things can contribute to a different feel when driving a car, higher tyre pressures will make it feel lighter and follow ruts in the road, if the bushes and rubers in the car have been replaced in stabalisers and steering, it will also feel odd untill they settle in a bit, even then it can still feel different, and if the alignment has been altered to what you are used to, it might feel more direct on steering.