__PhaseShiftDown

lol @ timestamp of the original post. But yes, mine is missing too.

I believe changing to softer spring usually means it needs to be revalved. Most coilovers are good for track only so you should get them changed. Overly bumpy ride can cause problems. Go for coilovers with 6 or 5KG spring front, and 5 or 4KG rear (6/5, 5/4) and you'll get a firmer ride without the exessive harshness. D2 and G4...etc coilovers are usually around 10KG, which is way to hard for the dodgy sydney roads.

I hope you have serviced your car and warm'd up the engine before started trashing it. At the minimum you should replce your oil and oil filter, probabaly a good idea to change th fuel filter as well and flush the radiator. Get a leakdown test done, it'll be more conlusive.

Yea.. thats y I recommended 300v and mobile 1 supersyn, since they are 100% synthetic. i.e. group 4, 5 synthetic base. Not sure about royal purple thou. 4100 is probabaly group 3 and group 1 oil mixed together, fine if you use it in camery, but no way in hell i'll put that in my skyline.

The fuse box should be located under the driver side dash/steering column. You'll see a rectangular area with a handle you can pull. Check each fuse in there. I don't know which specific one.

also. turbo light 4100 arn't exactly a good oil to use. It is semi synthetic. If your budget allows, go royal purple, mobil 1 supersyn or motul 300v.

which weight did you use? What oil was previously in the car? Are they the same weight? How many litre did you put in?

faulty oil pressure sender?

looks like a complete piece of crap.

100k service, I would do the following. Timing Belt, Idler and tensioner bearing Aux belt, aircon belt. Oil Filter Oil Fuel Filter Radiator Flush Spark Plugs Gearbox oil Diff oil Transfer case oil Brake pads, if need replacing Safety check. Only the timing belt and plugs? Thats a bit too much For my 32GTR, I bought the service kit from Kudo's Motorsport. Got the timing belt, water pump, idler, tensioner bearing changed, raidator flushed for around $950. The labor was $500 flat. You can change the spark plugs yourself, it ain't that hard dude.

I'm going to get one 2 just to replace my stock item. For the money, they should be alright, but I'm not expecting a huge improvement. As long as it don't give me negative gain, i'll be happy. Also interested in other ppl's experience with them before I get one from JJ.

thats normal.

Awesome. Thanks guys :-)

ROFL!!

Going to get a new cat and change it over. Car is a 32 GTR, so I'm just wondering if it is difficult to DIY? Just undo the bolts and slide it out? Any other tricks to it?

I reckon you should be able to get a bit more than 400k if you do a lot of freeway runs. my 32GTR makes about 400km (fuel light comes on) and its pretty much stock, apart from exhaust and ebc. I do about 50/50 highway and suburban driving, occasionally stuck in traffic jam. I also get a a bit of black carbon crap on my rear bumber. Going to replace the cat soon. But ye, check your O2, clean your AFM, change your plugs, oil, fuel and oil filter, tyre pressure and see how that goes.

Is that the actual one that was on your car? I have the exact same nismo one but in black and it comes with intergrated master brake cylinder stopper. You can try importmonster or slidewizeimports. Google those names.

Update?

Keep the input coming guys :-) Also, how much more work are we talking about converting to a single?

LOL!! It looks alright.. never been a fan of the new Z anyway. Edit: ewwww... just noticed the light. .. thats nasty.

Don't want to push the stock bottom end too much, and its not a N1 block. So I think I'll be happy with 300 - 350 (maybe for a week)... lol

mainly just after the simplicity of the single and I also read that it can just as, if not more responsive than the twin setup. Since i'm going to get new dump/front, and everything else anyway. So I thought I might as well go single.

I've been doing a bit of research on twin turbo upgrades on the RB26, but now decided to go single. So I'm just wondering what is the most cost effective (also reliable) way to go about it and how much roughly it is going to cost. Aim is around 300awkw since the engine is still stock and only has cat back, ebc, new nismo fuel pump. So I assume I still need the following. - Turbo (which one?) Garrett equivalent of HKS and alike - Manifold (which one?) and is there such a thing as a single low mount for the rb26? - Dump and front pipe (which one) + high flow cat - Nismo 740cc (I like a bit of headroom) - Power FC - Cam and Cam gear? (is it ideal to upgrade it?) - External gate? (do I need it?) - Other bits (turbo bag, heat wrap...etc) Thanks guys

Yes, the arm should move/extend all the way back , or pretty far and forth depending ont eh temperature setting. If you do Full Cold (hold down the cold button) and Full Hot (hold down the hot button), you should be able to verify its operation. If you have a faulty temp sensor, then the air con won't work properly. Having said that, you can still verify the operation of the arm by doing Full Cold and change quickly to Full Hot.

Installed the 4300k H4 kit on my 32GTR (N1 headlight) and it work pretty good. The color is white with no hint of blue. Plug and play, so its nice and easy. Like all HIDs such as these, putting them in halogen reflector housing will cause them to glare if no glare guard is included, these ones do come with a glare shield, but I recommend wrappping it with aluminum foil to cover up the bottom hole and wrap it slightly over the side. I have a good cut off point now. :-)