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royal purple and motul 300v is around that price as well. I think i'll stick with royal purple. Could someone confirm how long does 300v needs to be changed? I heard it dosen't last as long since its a race oil. BTW, sticking to the topic title. I believe Royal Purple makes a run in oil (on the US website). Might be a bit hard to get it in Australia.

So the base stock of 300v is ester (or somwhat a variation of it)? From what I've read, ester is only used as an additive for blend with the base stock, so is the base stock of 300v is still PAOs (Polyalphaolefins)?

Have you replaced the fuel pump?

15w is for cold and 50w is when hot. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm I wouldn't use 5w30 for an old motor. 10w40 is pretty much a safe area.

I think you just answered your own question m8. Have the proper tools, do it according to the manual and you'll be fine.

LOL

Don't worry about it m8.. there is always gonna be cops like that. Maybe he's just having a bad night. I've been pulled over a few times, and luckily they were all nice. :-)

See http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...=moulded+carpet I want to get a set as well in black when I do my audio system. I don't think its that difficult to do. Just need to remove all the seats and most lower interior trim, centre console...etc and it should just come off.

About the jacking points (I have the same car). Assuming that you have one of those floor jack (not the stock scissor jack), you can try driving your car onto some bricks, then you should able to reach the jack under the front cross member. It works for my car, which is slightly lowered (about 15mm at the front) with nismo struts. With the lip, I think you might need to take off whole front bar before you can take it off, but don't quote me on that thou. From memory, they are held together with a nut on the other side, so I think thats why it spins around when you loosen'd it.

I would recommend you to put a bit of grease on the thread before you start. The 1st nismo knob that I had, I did it too tight (trying to get it all the way down) and when it comes time to undo it, I unseated the plastic bit in the middle and I couldn't get it off, since the plastic bit would just sping around inside the knob like a screw with stripped thread. End up destroying it and had to get a new one. Other than that, they are really nice looking, although I'd prefer them to be slightly taller.

Also note that there are plenty of "buying a skyline, what to look out for".. type of thread if you do a search. Those should help you picking out a good car instead of a lemon.

WHAT THE F*CK was that?!! hahahaha.. I read through all 40 pages...

After a set of black R32 GTST Type M Side Skirts in good condition. Must be black with no cracks or anything. I can pick up in Sydney or I can pay for postage.

There should be a fuel pump fuse, 15A or somthing. Pull that out, crank the car and it will stall, crank it 2 more times to relief the pressure and you can now change out the fuel filter without fuel spilling everywhere.

Spotted hot white 34 GTR with nismo fmic and dished GT-C rim and another black 34 GTT behind it? on Church Street Parramatta today at around 11:30AM today. I'm the guy in the black 32GTR :-)

Very Nice!! Best number plate ever. :-)

Just want to hear ppls opinions on places to get your skyline serviced. I have bought the 100k service kit from Kudos and need some one to do the work. I only need to have the timing belt, idler, tensioner, waterpump and thermalstat changed. Have called unigroup and they quoted me $350 for labor, which sounds alright to me, but what concerns me is that they never answers their phone when I call and I've left message and they didn't bother calling me back. Anyone else have any other recommendations? I heard CRD isn't really interested in maintenance type of work.

The container on the firewall is the master, not the slave. Slave or the clutch operating cylinder is connected to the clutch, you need to look under the car. I believe it is on the driver side, you should be able to see it just by looking under the clutch area. You'll see a rubber hose connected to the slave. Uploaded some pics 4 ya m8, makes it easier. Hopefully, there is a leak at either those 2 places. Once you identified the leak, fix it, then bleed the clutch as per instruction on the service manual.

ok cool.. what about the postive and negative lead, any idea what gauge they are?

Is it a good idea to replace the stock battery terminals to one of those unit? http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-APD507P-Posi...l-p/apd507p.htm Also, any idea what gauge is positive and negative wires going to the battery? 2G or 4G?? Car is a 32GTR, btw. Cheers

Thanks, will let you know how these goes. :-)

Are the 32 GTST side skirts black also? Are they type M?

I had 2 of my wheels stolen from my old car parking it outside of my house. The alarm went off in the middle of the night, and I didn't took much notice of it. Woke up in the morning and found my car on bricks and 3 wheels were gone. They almost got all 4, but I think the car fell a little bit when they tries to get the last wheel off, and that must've triggered the alarm that probably scared the thieves away. The police found a wheel down the road in someone's front yard, so luckily I only had to replace 2 wheels instead of 3. Don't get any of those generic lock nuts as they are very easy to get off, since the thieves will probabaly have the same key. I recommend McGard lock nuts, since each master lock nut is computer generated and need a unique key to match the pattern, while the rest of the nut needs a special key to open as well. Lock Nut Normal Nut http://www.mcgard.com/automotive/ I bought my set from this ebay seller in the US. The product is made in USA. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK-McGar...emZ360093906241

In either case, get it checked out properly before you make the purchase and there is no difference between buying private or from a dealer, except maybe the private seller maybe a bit cheaper. If the seller is willing to drive the car to a workshop, then you should organise a time with a workshop that knows skyline, say CRD to do a full inspection. i.e car on the hoist and also do compression, leakdown test....etc. If not, you can always get a generic full inspection. I used stateroads when I bought my car, and they were fairly good.

Straight out of the Castrol website using their lube selector. This is for a R32 GTR btw, I don't think the 33 GTST is listed there. Faily sure they are the right ones, but you may want to call Castrol to confirm. Engine: CASTROL EDGE SPORT 10W-60 Gearbox CASTROL VMX 80 Power Steering CASTROL PS FLUID Diff CASTROL EPX 80W/90 4WD Transfer CASTROL TRANSMAX Z