infamous_t

I vaguely remember someone saying early GTRs were different to latter ones in regards to the speedo, I remember someone selling one for this reason. I think we can safely assume HICAS is acting up due to it not getting a speed signal(it relies on speed sensor used for dash) I had a quick search, but couldn't find the thread, but im sure there was a solution for this already...

ORC or Coppermix twin, im going the latter for the GTR.

No need to vent to outside if you use a dry cell, perfect example is the factory setup on later model skylines (later r33, r34 etc). Dry cell batteries still emit hydrogen, just no where near as much as the wet cell brothers. Just a note, if you are going to ground the earth in the boot, make sure to remove paint of contact surface, and check theres good continuity with a multimeter. Personally I'd run both cables back to the engine bay, but it'll be a weight penalty for those that watch their weight

Try for sale section buddy, they come up every now and then. Carsales.com etc have them, but beware of dodgy adverts ie. quad turbo r34s , or send money first type ads Otherwise try import dealers.

How the hell would you plumb up quad turbo to a 6 cylinder anyway... triple turbo would be much more believeable... but I guess it doesn't have the zing that quad does.

Imagine how much I'd get for my GTR, if he's asking $165K for a GTT... then again I swapped the time circuits out of an old Delorean, so my car can time travel.

And to follow on, unless you got an extended warranty, then you only have limited items that you can claim on and warranty usually runs out between 1-3 months IIRC... but thats from a car dealer. Import brokers & compliancers are a different kettle of fish, but once again, can offer extended warranties, which very few ppl take anyway.

Just a shock spring/combo with adjustable rebound, no adj. height. Bilstein (Japan) make these for Nismo IIRC ps. you might get more hits if you post this in the Suspension area.

Smaller rim = larger tyre side wall, which should mean it is able to get power to the ground better. Of course this is if you comparing similar width rims runnning similar tyres.

Bad alignment/balance or single pegger burnouts probably caused the uneven tyre wear. This thread might help the head light situation http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ing+head+lights

How long you reckon it'll take for someone in the holden camp to do an LS1 swap? That is, if a turbo version isn't released.

Search teh bit torrents, always a few manuals around, or try www.sewell.net.nz MODS feel free to delete my post if you want to keep this thread clean

Ross, download/borrow a LIVE cd, preferably of WinXP, but Linux with NTFS drivers will do the trick. Then borrow a spare computer and network it and transfer, or use an external hard drive. If it still does it it probably best of to remove/disconnect graphics card and run off the motherboards onboard graphics, and then boot up in safe mode. Otherwise its probably your power supply that bitten the dust. Give Storm Computers a call, they helped me out when my PS died, and they're quite cheap (and close to you)

WANTED: CRAZY CO-DRIVER... MUST NOT BE CRAZY ENOUGH TO DAMAGE KART THO... I'm down if I can find a partner.

lol, don't worry, I got it, Happy Gilmore ftw!

Thats fckn ridiculous man, sorry to here about your re-yellowing...

errmm not true, Wolf V5 has been out for a couple of years and has virtually the same running speed, can't speak for other ecu's tho. This was what I was eluding to earlier, compare features & price between ecu's and you'll see its already at a price disadvantage considering very similar specs.

LS1s are a great combo for a R32... just make sure you add a pair of huffers on the side

Easier to change filter, filter in a relocation kits is usually mounted higher and reduces oil going everywhere when changing. Makes it possible to add sensors for aftermarket gauges or alter plumbing to suit oil coolers.

I used to do this sort of stuff as my job a few years ago, you see some really dodgy & shitty setups about. You've done a great job in this case Just one thing Id mention tho, If i was doing this I'd separate the positive & negative from each other to separate blocks to save from accidents, maybe have the negative block separated to the rear (depending on how you decide to mount)

Think Roy is refering to the rear more so in reference to avoiding GTR guards, which is either an add on FG panel, or a cut/merge & repaint job. Fronts require a couple of other changes (indicator & maybe front bar?) and isn't as cost effective as rolling guards. If a big fan of a well done guard rolling job, esp. to fit deeeeeep dish rims Love that pic of the matt black 32 finshed with the GTR front bar

There is another proven aussie ECU thats been on the market for years that has all these features for the $2K mark, but no one likes that ecu... argument at the time was no one wanted all the extra features, fast ecu & mapping points etc it provided Im not mentioning this to rain on Paul's parade, merely stating as others have, that to be successful, price might need to come down.

Try this recent thread for a couple of ideas, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...se-t219307.html

Do you mean another way to get an RB30 hybrid without taking car off the road? You could source another RB25 or 26 head and use this as the base of the rebuild, or you could pull out mega$$ and order an OS Giken 3L