infamous_t

I thought this thread was a joke until a news update came at the same time I went to look at this thread. RIP Mainy

He had a GTST with GTR panels all round.

Using the CODEBOX tags(insert special item option) keeps the tab spaces, kinda like <pre> tags in normal HTML (for teh g33ks) tab here> and two here? yup! Hope that helps

WA Suspensions in Ossy Park comes highly recommended. Ask for Brad, a SAUWA member who works there.

Damage looks superficial, but id look closer at suspension at chassis. You have GTR panels all round dont cya? I can tell you right now brand new OEM front GTR fender(1) is about $800, bumper $600, lower bumper lip $400, if bought new from Nissan, and you'll have to wait... I know this because my 'R got ute spec'd, but his insurance is covering it, lucky for me (sorry!), but the waiting game begins. These panels can be difficult to source second hand, but defiantly worth looking. If it was me in your position, Id be looking at the Bee*R R324 conversion kits.

This is the new HKS EVC? I know that one is kPA(bar) or PSI selectable. Therefore your running 8.7psi(0.6bar) or 6psi. well under stock.

If you FAST the VIN it 'should' mention if it was a Nismo edition... Good price if it is... good price if it isn't, lol.

GTR Stock boost gauge is in mmHg, 7(x100)mmHg = 13.5psi. If your HKS EVC is reading even remotely accurate that still means less that half boost of what your used to.

GTR32 ftw

BigMonkey, the setup you have doesn't look like it relocates the oil filter(other than 15mm away from the block), just adds the cooler. Not all kits relocate the oil filter.

R32.4 will get you started for sexy-time... http://www.bee-r.com/main/parts/aero/b324r001.htm

Thats a refreshing change. Paint the sucker and know one would be the wiser. Sorted

Received yesterday, thanks Duncan, look forward to playing with this baby in the next few weeks x2 I know the work that goes into these kinda projects (my old work made/developed various electronics stuff, mainly on PIC boards), and its alot of time ,effort & resources.

You got me there, real CF is lighter(if you got $$$)... but compare the aluminium to stocker and its the next best solution.

Care factor zero... rat leaving the sinking ship.

GTR bonnet (aluminium bonnet is lighter than CF & Legal) ftw!

Hi Justin, Give Top Racing a call (08) 9472 3368, I'm sure they've already crossed this path a few times, being a premium Wolf dealer in WA. I think the plug & play WOLF for the R33 can be used, but the base tune is not great due to the higher compression in the R34 RB25DET.

Check your water pump. EDIT: what? leaks from the head? head gasket ftl.

Which is what the turbo timer does without you having to wait in the car for a couple of minutes... matter of convenience for those that drive there car more than once a week aka a daily. And as Grant says don't boost for the last 5 mins or so of your journey. It all helps. The idea behind a turbo timer is to extend the life of your turbo, nothing more, nothing less.

A turbo timer is money well spent.

Very sad, I was watching his run at 06 X Games run on youtube yesterday... a very gifted driver.

If you havnt already sorted this out, I found this on gtr.co.uk which should help. This is the translation of pages 6&7 of the MFD2 manual....the directions will work with a factory MFD too. Maybe Joss can put them up in the technical page... From Page -6- The car should first of all be parked on a flat area. (1)Turn the ignition key to "ON" (2)Push the Joystick once. Do not step on the accelerator. If the GTR logo does not appear after step (1) & (2) follow these directions: Turn the engine off by putting the ignition key to "OFF" Doh!! Press "RETURN" & "MODE" together When the GTR logo appears release "RETURN" &"MODE" Press the joystick 5 times in 3 seconds (3)When the Accelerator box appears (like in the pic to the left) press the joystick (4)Work the accelerator to confirm the sensor works properly. When off it should read 0% and when fully depressed 100%. (5)Turn the engine off by putting the ign key to "OFF" From Page -7- (1)Ignition to OFF....continuing from step 5 on the other page (2)Turn ignition to ON while pushing the joystick (3)Release the Joystick 1 second after the GTR logo appears (4)Then quickly press the joystick 5 times in 3 seconds while the GTR logo is still being displayed (5)The diagnostic screen should appear with all the different parameters listed. At this point the shift up indicator (the "REV" light) should be on The self test should be completed when all the parameter boxes are green. If the green is not displayed there is a problem so check connections and for short circuits. If INT TEMP or EXH-TEMP do not light up drive around for a few moments to get a positive reading.

Japan is NTSC, your dvd player likely isn't(if bought locally). This causes black & white fuzzyness. Either change settings on DVD player or Screen to match formats... otherwise you'll needed a NTSC to PAL convertor. Also try changing you DVD sound settings to stereo or mono, often some DVD players makes come preset at 5.1 surround, which you generally won't here in 'stereo'. Hope that does the trick.

Report to cops & go get a new set(about $80 for reissue for poly plates i think). Worlds full of twats that do this shit.

Maybe bad electrical connections to the o2 sensor, similar to the problems ppl are getting with afms. Check and resolder if they look suspect.