mitch_SR32

Hey mate, consider these sold to me, I got a rough quote from E-Go.com.au for $79 from your door to a depot where I can pick them up from. Got money ready to go, let me know asap

Is the airbox for SR and do you have any pictures? need it ASAP if its in good condition.

I don't mind, but my brother lives in wollongong so I could probably arrange for him to pick it up from you for me and then he can send it later to save me some money. If thats easier for you let me know asap

How much to post/courier it to 0812 Leanyer, Northern Territory???? VERY INTERESTED!!

Do you have the reo bar and if so what condition is it in and how much?

As the topic states I am after the following items for an R32 GTS-t A pair of headlights including the wiring and plugs coming off the back A pair of indicators also wiring and plugs 1x reo bar If you are going to reply or PM can it please include the cost of any or all the items delivered to 0812

Hey mate I sent you a message with my brothers phone tonight (since he will be the one paying for them) because mine was out of battery. Let me know either on here or by replying to that message if you will take my offer

Hey mate, I have 4 17x8 +34 that I want to get rid of, they are the original 5 stud ones (not multi) and are bronze. One has some gutter rash but the other 3 are nearly perfect so you can have the best 2 I am on holidays right now but should be back home before the 20th if you are interested.

It usually has a big GREDDY logo in red stamped on the top of it near the throttle body

By Australian road law you are classed as OVERSIZE at anything over 2.5m and have to have all the appropriate signage to suit

This is the first time I have ever seen caps lock stuck on for only the first letter in each word

AFAIK fuel goes stale, if so then thats not about it Other than that check oil and water to see if they are still ok and at the right levels

From a friend of mine that has an R33 in his R32 he says the radiator cap hits the bonnet. 1 question: how is it an upgrade if its bigger but thinner? sounds kind of redundant to me. (CBF looking up dimensions of each core)

Quite possibly THE definition of: WHAT THE f**k?

1: I said everything FROM box trailers to tanks meaning I have put a lot of things on trailers of all shapes and sizes and sometimes not even vehicles. 2: You were the one who used words like if and probably so thats how I read it. 3: I never said using over rated straps was a bad idea, infact I said I encourage it and recommend it to people. Just going too far with the rating can sometimes do more harm than good depending on what and where you tie down. 4: I don't believe I said race cars have soft setups, I was trying to keep it general throughout my posts. 5: I did think about going into the science behind tie town methods from different parts of the car but I don't have any photos or a program to draw up where straps can/cannot go. In that light I do agree with you saying that you need longer straps when going from the body. Your point about the safety chain, I know that its all part of a 'by the book' tie down process but honestly how many people INCLUDING qualified civi towies do you see doing it? I know what shock loading is and what it can do but thats why I posted up when to check your load after tying it down. Those checks will help you get the tension right once the load has settled on the trailer and should (nothing tied down is ever 100% stable save for twist locks maybe) stop a lot of the movement that would loosen a strap. All this aside I wasn't trying to be condescending, but I have always come off that way and I guess it is why I sit here typing this out instead of going out with friends.

I always worry about those things tipping over Trade up for a swag too

Well you stick to ifs and assumptions and I'll go with my 5 years of towing everything from box trailers to 126 ton worth of tanks (thats 2 tanks on A-frame behind mine) Not going from the body leaves the load free to move around on its suspension, even when tied down properly at the wheels the movement from the car can act against the movement of the trailer. This movement can amplify to the point that your trailer has a huge influence on the tow vehicles handling which if nothing else is dead set dangerous. If you want to help dampen the inertia of the trailer (as you put it) then set up your tow vehicle properly Tying down from the body and having the trailer and load move as one is much more stable/safer for both the trailer and tow vehicle. A quick example was the last time my car was a on a tilt bed, the driver said "wow you can barely feel the car back there on the tray, how stiff is it?" I replied "full cage and 10kg/mm springs and stiff dampers all around" This is the kind of thing you are after when towing, not being able to feel the load My car was tied down by wheel straps, but the suspension did a lot to stop body roll as was my intention for drifting I guess I'm almost repeating myself now but yes if the load you are tying down is very stiff as it is, then not much need for going from the body. For long distances though as Trent said, it will get really annoying when you can feel the car at every little bump and turn.

Sounds awesome! Just like RevSpeed magazine in Japan

Nevermind, got it sorted now. Shouldn't have given up that easily

The 80/50/20/20 rule is a MINIMUM, and I didn't say it would get rid of body roll, only most of it. Of course the only way to get rid of body roll is to use spring holders on all your suspension and then tie it down. You read too far into not going from the axles, I mean the ACTUAL axles since they were never designed to take that kind of load. Wheel straps are ok, its just they do nothing to stop body roll so I don't like them if I can tie something down from the body instead. I wouldn't jump to some civilian tow truck drivers way of doing things as it can be extremely dicey, I have seen cars being held by nothing more than the tiny little winch that dragged it up and a ratchet strap over the roof.

Car is an R32 GTST, I snapped both driveshafts off at the spindles the other night and have got replacement ones. 2 questions: 1: How do I knock the new ones in the back of the hub? The driveshafts are complete with the spindle on the end not separated from the boot. 2: I read that one is longer than the other and the diff is offset from center? if true which side does the short/long shaft go into?

The K frame is bolted to the body and so by tying that down you should be getting rid of a lot of body roll which is not good for towing long distance, or any distance really. You read the rules wrong, for your car you will need 1x 680kg strap at the rear and 1x 425kg NOT 2x 200kg from the front, since this won't be enough to be safe assuming only one strap is taking the load. This is without factoring in side movement by the way, but nobody can factor in an accident when they are tying something down otherwise everyone would be tying their 1200kg race cars down with 22mm 100 grade chain and dogs from tow trucks to massive oblongs welded into huge thick plates on a trailer so nothing comes apart in this accident everyone is planning on having. Of course this setup would weigh a good 2 tonne in trailer and bracing for the tie downs, maybe even more, not to mention getting tie down points rated to match welded to your car and I know that isn't happening. And for Telstra rope or any rope for that matter, if you are not sure how much weight it can take safely the formula is this: Diameter of the rope x 8 = SWL in kg

One more thing, because I know a LOT of people don't do this and it can save you from losing your car clean off your trailer even while just cruising on the highways. CHECK YOUR TIE DOWNS! You should after tying it down check them at 3 key intervals: 200m after moving off (if the straps aren't on properly most of the movement is likely to happen in this short space, I personally have had to rip everything off and start again due to movement in this short distance) 3-5km after moving off (if you did it right on the first check then this should be a quick tighten or nothing at all) Every time you stop after that (you are already stopped so what is hard about checking your car again) The last step is something I see a lot of, people walk around to find straps loose or about to come off and say "jeez lucky I pulled over when I did". Don't be that person

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This What is happening there is you don't have a constant shift in the CG (center of gravity) which can feel like the trailer is putting the brakes on as you drive.

1: Going from the K-frame is not a problem because it is an unsprung part of the car, the only place you should never ever tie down from is axles. No violent movement is going to occur if you have tightened it properly. 2: Where are you getting this 200% figure from? because if its simply based on an accident then I can tell you what will happen right now: - The chain you are using will be fine since you factored it in for this big accident but its not immune to stretching either - It will bend/break whatever you tied it to on the trailer AND the car since these aren't rated for this accident - There is really no way to work out how to tie something down to save it from damage in an accident, hence why I doubt you will find anyone that can tell you how to tie something down with enough force (while not bending anything) to keep it stable in an accident