_Scotty_

Can I get a quote with delivery to Brisbane 4035 please?

Could you please PM me a quote for front R33 GTST rotors with delivery to Brisbane 4035. Cheers.

I might be keen, I'll have to confirm closer to the date though. Any suggestions on where to get a cheap helmet?

I got a small bottle of it from Bursons who had it on their shelves, but Supercheap were able to order it in as well. It comes with a brush and you just paint it on, I used 2 coats and it worked a treat - looks exactly like normal amber bulbs.

I wired my indicators up today using 16w T15 clear bulbs which I painted with amber lens dye. I found out that T15 amber sleeves are available from Narva, but no one had them in stock. The 16w bulbs are reasonably bright and the indicators flash at the normal speed but if anone knows where to get 20w bulbs in T10 or T15 I'd be keen to know.

I'm going to wire indicators up tommorow one way or the other, but I'd prefer to avoid using trailer lights and use the parkers instead. I want them to be as bright as the factory indicators which means I need something around 20w, can anyone suggest where to get amber sleeves for T10-T15 bulbs?

Just as I suggested above. If anyone else is having this problem it's easy to check, if you remove the bolt you can look through the hole and see if there's marks on the exhaust. It's not just an issue with gear from China, my dump\front pipe is CES.

I need to add indicators to my new front bar, does anyone know the legal requirements for location and size?

How do people find the brightness of indicators relocated to the parker position? I need to sort something out for my new bar, but I'm concerned that relocated lights won't be obvious enough.

CES. Link

I'm in. The bottom left design looks good to me.

Does anyone have decent photos of the Blits ADR approved R33 bonnets fitted?

Does that include the radiator support?

When I decided to do it I thought it would be original, but afterwards I realised other people had the same idea! I've seen a few with different rear bars and mufflers posted on SAU. Nice car by the way.

I guess I better go buy chrome rims and altezzas then... I think the Veilside rear bar looks great, which is obviously why I have one. The rest of the kit isn't what I'm looking for with my car, but at the end of the day each to their own. Shaun I'd be talking to DMD if I was you. That's not where I got mine from, but it's where I'd go if I was buying it again.

I had an occasional knock from that area that happened going over bumps, turned out to be the rear passenger seat bolt hitting the exhaust, which was slightly too close. When the bolt was removed you could see a mark on the exhaust where it had been touching.

If anyone wants this stuff I'm happy to take any offer. At the moment it's just taking up space.

Have a search for an installation manual for an Apexi turbo timer and you'll find a pin-out diagram that will show you which wire to use. Having a PowerFC doesn't change the fact that you only have a narrow band O2 sensor, you still won't have the accuracy that would be provided by a wideband.

Be careful not to assume that using a "brand name" part will mean you won't have any problems, I've got a Trust kit and have had leaks from the start. I recently pulled it all apart again and put gasket sealant in all the fittings which has almost solved it, but I still have a very slow leak to track down. Having said that the overall quality of the kit is good, and I'd be happy to buy another, I suspect I just got a dodgy one rather than there being a problem with the design. If you get a Trust kit I'd recommend using stronger hose clamps than the ones that come with the kit, the clamps that came with mine were fairly flimsy, and I'd personally rather be sure that my oil is going to stay in the engine than have pretty blue hose ends.

Cheers Gary, much appreciated. I'll set it up as recommended. Out of interest, what is the downside of having greater than 10mm positive rake? Any ideas why the Jap springs sit the front so much lower, just for looks perhaps?

From what I've read on these forums, the standard R33 GTS25t center of wheel to guard measurement is 10mm higher at the front than the rear. I've also seen the recommended height, particularly with the Whiteline kit, listed with the front 10mm higher (ie 350/340). My Nismo springs on the other hand sit the wheel to guard 20mm lower at the front than the rear. I've noticed a few other Jap aftermarket springs set the car up like this as well. What difference does this height balance make to handling, and ultimately what is a better set up for street use? I've got a set of Bilsteins getting groves machined into them at the moment so I'm trying to decide the heights I'll use. At the moment I'm leaning towards making the front and rear even, ie 350/350.

Stock Exhaust Cam Gear - $20 All prices negotiable.

Just putting up some of the stuff I have lying around in case anyone is interested. Will add more later. Front and Rear Standard Springs - $50 KYB Rear Shocks - $50, purchased 2nd hand, seem to be in decent condition. Upper Timing Belt Cover - $40 Air Box and Filter - $40 Snorkel for Air Box - $10 New Leather Gearstick Boot - $25 Located on Brisbane Northside. Pickup preferred, but will post at buyer's expense. Contact via PM.

As discussed by PM, I'm interested depending on the exact design and price...