_Scotty_

15 degrees BTDC.

I recently replaced the alternator on my RB25 with one off another nissan rated at 100Amp. Not sure exactly what it's off (possibly Z32?) but the part number is ARJ036. The standard one I pulled off was only rated at 80. I don't know whether there's any difference in fitting to an RB20, but I'd be suprised if there is. Even if the plugs do need changing it's a pretty simple job for yourself or an auto sparky.

Good Stuff! Hopefully they don't run out too soon...

Correct, they are progressive, so how about: Front: Coil ID = 104/90 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 5.5 turns Spring rate = Rear: Coil ID = 99/71 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 7.4 turns Spring rate = Any idea if these are in fact Nismo springs? Cheers Gary.

Are you sure the LS is tube and fin? From the Greddy advertising I've seen they are still bar and plate, just lighter then the Spec M.

Mine came with a bracket, but just get some aluminium bar from a hardware store and make one up. Would only cost a couple of dollars.

Send me a PM once you're ready to go, I probably won't check on this thread for a while...

Has anyone had any further experience getting Emanage Ultimate tuned since the end of last year? Any more recommendations? For the price they seem like a good option compared to PowerFC, but they're not much use if no one can tune them...

Time to start saving for a PowerFC then I think...

I'm hoping to get some "i get x more kms per tank" stories to work out if it's worth the cost.

Has anyone had a noticable increase in fuel economy after tuning an aftermarket computer? A PowerFC is on my list of things to get down the track, but given the rising price of fuel if there was a decent increase in fuel economy it could be worth getting one sooner rather than later...

Front: Coil ID = 104/90 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 9.8 turns Spring rate = Rear: Coil ID = 99/71 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 9.4 turns Spring rate = I believe they're Nismo low springs, not sure though... Cheers.

Be careful mixing coolant stronger than 50:50. It's job is to prevent corrosion, lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point but it isn't as good at transfering heat as pure water. Making the mix too strong can reduce the effieciency of your cooling system.

My car's a gts-t, which is what got me worried. I suspect this canister is some cheapy, and that if it doesn't have a valve built in then it's letting boost in. The tank always seems to have a lot of pressure when I open it, and i sometimes get weird blow off valve type sounds from the guard so it's time to get hold of a stock one and put things right again...

Not quite, the one I have is Australian made so I assume it was added during compliancing. The factory one seems to have had 2 connections for the intake, this one only has 1. Currently it has 1 air, 1 fuel and 1 intake line. Is it worth getting a replacement stock one, or stick with what I've got? If I stick with it, is the line to the intake better plumbed into the throttle body or manifold, or maybe use a t piece and connect it to both? Is a connection to air even needed?

I've just been looking at my carbon canister and things don't seem right. Mine is in the drivers side guard. It has 3 fittings on the top, one is going to the tank, one to air, and one to the manifold. The hose coming off the throttle is blocked off. Is this a factory item or something that's been put on later? How should it be plumbed in, ie should the throttle hose be connected? There's no markings for where the fittings are meant to go.

R33 Gearbox Oil

3.7-3.8L

Thanks for your help Mike!

Mate do you know what the spring rates are? How many Ks were they installed for? I take it the standard top mounts will work with them?

It's in the latch in the bootlid.

In for a Series 1 R33 Gtst with no powdercoat

I thought I'd seen these recently but now I can only find them for GTRs. Does anyone know where to get them?

Open the boot, remove the grey plastic trim behind the "skyline" panel and you'll be able to access the nuts on the back of it. Once that's removed you'll be able to access the screws to remove the bumper.

The current sound system in my R33 consists of: Eclipse CD5425 Head Unit Eclipse SC8264 6.5" 2 Way Front Splits Eclipse SW6123.4 12" Sub running off a bridged EA2000 Amp Standard Rear Speakers I've been planning to upgrade the rear speakers at some stage in the future and run those and the fronts off a 4Ch Amp with a high pass filter set at around 55Hz, since the fronts are rated down to 50Hz. I've been offered a new Sony XM-554ZR 4Ch amp for about $100, so I'm tempted to get it and install some Jaycar 6.5" splits in the rear and just be done with it. The problem is the Amp doesn't have an adjustable filter, just a switch for 80Hz. I can set a 70Hz filter on the head unit, and was thinking of setting the low pass for the Sub at about 90Hz. Is is worth holding off to buy something better or should I just go with this? Is it worth being able to set a high pass for the front that allows their full range?