_Scotty_

Mate, probably worth having a search on www.r31skylineclub.com there's plenty of info on there.

Payment Sent!

Mate I've got a standard R33 rear bar in white sitting under the house, PM me if you're interested.

Are the dampers and springs still for sale? If so how long were they in the car?

Mate, I'm in for the new Group Buy!

Turned out the brushes were fine, and while it wouldn't fail on the test bench the likely fault is one of the electrical components. Repairing it would have ended up costing the same as buying a new alternator off another nissan. Not sure what model it's from, but the part number is ARJ036 and it's rated at 100Amp rather than the standard 80Amp.

Cheers for the help guys, i'm in Brissy but since they can be reconditioned I'll ring around tommorow until I find somewhere that will do it.

Yeah, initially I thought that too, but he seemed pretty genuine. When I get a chance I'm going to ring around a few more places, I've had an R31 alternator reconditioned successfully so I don't see why the R33 would be different...

The alternator in my R33 GTSt is pretty much stuffed, but I'm finding it hard to source a replacement. I spoke to an auto electrician about reconditioning it but he doesn't think it's worth it with the Hitachi alternators and he couldn't find a new one. What have other people done? Are there any aftermarket options or is genuine the only choice? Is the RB25det alternator the same as the RB30e? Has anyone successfully recond an R33 alternator?

Can't say I've worked out a good way of doing it, I removed mine with an open-ended spanner from under the car BUT BE CAREFUL! If it's seized and you force it you can destroy the thread within the dump pipe.

I've got a twin exhaust, be warned though that it's neither cheap nor easy to do. Mine is 3" to the diff where it splits to 2 x 2.5". I've made modifications to both the rear bar and the spare wheel carrier to make it fit properly. The exhaust work was done by Mercury Motorsport in Brisbane.

From memory it'll bolt straight up if you have the reo as well, otherwise you can make slight modifications to a s1\s2 reo to make the skin fit.

Not that I think much of Autospeed these days, but this might explain what SK means about using just one AFM... http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_2424/article.html

I've got a set on mine...

I've actually put the perspex window in already but I'll keep that in mind next time. The window is only small (100x150) so hopefully it won't make much difference to sound quality.

Cheers Chris

I've finally decided to build a custom enclosure for my sub and as part of the design I want to put a clear perspex window in the top of the sub box and another in the false floor over the amp. The problem is I can't find anywhere in Brisbane to pick up a decent piece of perspex. Any ideas where I could get it?

I've got a CES dump and the O2 sensor fits no worries.

I got mine from Mercury Motorsport (http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/). Ask to speak to Darren, he organised a good deal on Drifteks with SS595s for me.

This is my old 31...

Wheels are SOLD! Bumper is still for sale if anyone wants it.

Price drop on the wheels, I'm willing to take $200 for them. Help me get my Power FC tuned!

I'm selling my stock R33 GTSt wheels and rear bumper! The wheels have 225/50r16 tyres with excellent tread. They were fitted when the car was imported and have travelled less then 5000kms. Asking for $250. The rear bumper is painted white. Looking for $50. Pick up only from Ashgrove. Offers will be considered, pictures will be posted soon...

When I get around to putting the car on the dyno I'll see exactly what the power gain has been, but I don't think it'll be any different to a normal 3" system. The twin 2.5" pipes have a greater cross section then a 3" pipe, and the bends are nice and smooth so there should be very little restriction. Not sure what the dB reading would be, but hopefully it won't attract too much attention.