anthonymcgrath

thats good news then

yeah it has its limits - its either that or kiss your brakes and handbrake shoes goodby heh but for at least helping to get the car running and adjusting the AFR's to get some decent cruise fueling it works well I think

thats exactly what this allowed me to do with enough handbrake or just normal brake I could get the car up a few psi in 4th gear. I shouldn't admit this but at one point I looked down and the car was doing 110mph in 4th gear which I shat myself about when the thought that there is the possibility it could jump off the stands so I backed right off lol That said there was little vibration and it seemed to be very stable. Get a good pair of chocks for the front wheels tho!

hey guys thought I'd update... my car is currently running and pottering to work and back. Its running a base fuel/ign map which was supplied to me by a Martin Battye over here who is an engine management specialist. He really knows his stuff and the car is purring up n down the motorway to work and back although its quite a bit rich but I'd rather that and a few extra pennies on fuel than a borked engine! I cant boot it yet unfortunately as I still need to get it mapped but I've got the Link G4 ecu in the car so its just a matter of time. Need to install the boost controller and some other little bits like a new fuel pump (walbro255 which I know wont make me huge power but they're a good priced hard working fuel pump so I'm sticking with that for now). here's a shot of my engine bay... also some videos - first fire up and me doing a bit of ghetto dyno lol... first fire up... second start... ghetto dyno vid01 (turbo comes into effect on this one albeit lightly) sorry about the video quality but it gives you an idea - you can hear the difference in fueling/ign from the first vid to the last. The car is currently idling a touch high - about 1400rpm and I've checked all boost leaks so I can only imagine its still sitting in the warm up table as I have an oil cooler and a nismo thermostat so water and oil temps aren't getting very high. Might have to put a new oem thermostat in tbh not sure. anyhow my thread on skylineowners.com has tonnes of info and pics and chattering regarding various parts of this swap. I've never done this before so to be able to sit in traffic knowing the car I'm in isn't a mr finance and eventually it'll be a car I mapped myself is quite cool I think and its what makes all this kind of thing worth it

cheers mate saturday I managed to get the oil cooler on & sandwich plates on the car... blocked off these spots & ran a 3/4" heater hose I got off ebay.. so I didn't have the awkward shaped metal pipe underneath and end up blocking off two more spots... stuck plenum back on and everything else. Topped up with coolant. Realised that I hadn't put the banjo bolt back on the block for my turbos water line. Fixed that. Retopped back up with coolant. Added oil (not to the coolant lol!) 10hrs later I was about set. Went to bed instead because the thought of firing it up and it causing me a heap of issues wouldn't have sat well with me after all that work! next day (sunday) I got back in garage. Engine fired up right away which was good. Adjusted ign timing using timing gun and CAS unit... This video is shortly after I took it around the block just to see how its shaping up. Seems to want to move even on very low load - much more responsive than it used to be. My old erratic timing signal is also sorted now - it used to jump from 15 to 5 to 20 to 0 just on idle. Seems fixing the cylinder head has made a big difference methinks top mount GT3076 turbo swap - second test wired in my wideband gauge yday and got it talking to my link G4 ecu so thats cool. Next up tonight is connecting the wiring off my sender units to my gauges in my A pillar. gotta say its nice to actually do jobs that dont involve getting covered in oil lol!

hi Justin those lines were on the car from the start. The fittings do have a kind of double barbed thing - they look pretty much like this.. when you say dont use the hoseclamp do you mean the silver jubilee clip around the aeroquip hose? (sorry I've noticed some SAU terminology is different from UK Stuff lol).. if so they're not fastened on tight. The car was like this for about 2 years without issue and solid oil temps - I'm just recreating what existed previously but without the oil filter reloc and the thermostat in between sandwich plate and oil cooler. Surely it'll be okay still wont it?

not had any starter grief mate no - it seems to fire up first time every time on the starter - I just figured it'd be good to whip it off while I can get to it easily and recondition its inside bits okay while the plenum is off I decided to do coupla jobs. Thermostat for one and I've had a mocal 19row oil cooler on the car in the past so thought I'd stick it back on. It had thermostat and oil filter relocation but tbh I cant fit those bits with all the other stuff under the hood. I've decided to remove the old oil modene, fit a sandwich plate for the gauges, then a sandwich plate for the oil cooler. here's a pic or two... no work in progress pic but whipped this bit off and fitted a nismo thermostat... easy job to do! here's a close up pic of the fitting on my oil line.. the hose is aeroquip -8AN (1/2" ID) with this push on fitting... I need to change this fitting for a female end as its going to bolt onto the mocal sandwich plate I've ordered.. and here's how I'm gonna run my oil lines - I prefer this to all the thermostat and oil filter reloc... its not too hard to take a filter off a gtr or anything so I'm happy with it being pretty much where it is... I do have a Q tho... here's the greddy sandwich plate and a centre bolt. 2 different forum users very kindly sent me these bits. However there appears to be about 1mm of gap between the centre bolt and the middle of the plate so I dont think this bolt is designed for the plate. Will this be okay once its all bolted up to the block? I cant seem to get the centre bolt for the greddy plate separately Obviously I'm worried if this will be bolted up and move then oil would leak out would it not? any thoughts most welcome guys thankyou

hey guys cheers bit of a backward step today - once I put the rad cap on, the greddy plenum I fitted actually sprouted a leak underneath. It actually turned out that a couple of the bolts that hold the water pipe on underneath the plenum were threaded through. I've whipped it off today and I'm gonna take the plenum to the head shop near me to helicoil the plenum again. They can check the plenum mating face for flatness afterward too along with the other threads. and ensure they're all okay before I put it back on. It'll also give me a chance to do a few other jobs - namely -fit a nismo thermostat -fit a sandwich plate for the oil filter so i can fit oil temp & pressure gauges -change fuel filter (tho that one is easy) -recon the starter motor. the reason for recon'in the starter motor is I have had a battery issue since I've had the car. I've tried everything to stop it draining the battery but had no luck. A friend of mine who is has been a car spark for the last 30 years couldn't find the issue after 4 hours testing wiring. I'm hoping that if I can change the starter motor or recon it I'll fix the problem as I hear the starter motor is a common one for draining the battery - can anyone vouch for this? other than that the car is sounding ALOT smoother. I nipped up boost pipes around the fmic and amended the idle some more and it purrs. The cylinder head sounds so much smoother than before so once I get this plenum issue sorted and the other bits I should be good to go oh thanks for the nice works about me transformer animation too!

I think I'll be needing to uprate the GTR one sat in my 33gtst - I'm aiming for 370kw (500bhp) so hoping a tomei or nismo one will help me get there - would rather pay the pennies altho that said dont these guys just basically rebadge a bosch044 or bosch 040 or something?

hey guys I've done a turbo swap and I'm gonna be putting the wb sensor in the downpipe just before turbo for time being which is where the guys who made my downpipe placed the bung. I'm not gonna be pushing it hard with this in place - its purely to see what my fueling is roughly doing in the low load cells whilst I get it to my tuners for the rollin road.. I'll whip it off further down the line and mount it in the downpipe to see how it goes then run the wiring through to the cabin. I'd also like to get it talking to my G4 link ecu I've got installed so it can do the autotune for the lower load cells as I drive.

hi all for the last 6-7 months I've been working on my car - 33gtst. I've done a top mount conversion for it and fitted a Garrett GT3076R turbo, a Greddy GTR style plenum and a Q45 throttle body. I've also fitted some other bits - larger boost pipes, external wastegate, adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The ecu is a G4 link plugin and I'll be fitting an AEM UEGO wideband sensor and gauge this wkend too. There are lots of pics on www.skylineowners.com - my thread is here... Project GT3076R top mount turbo conversion I've actually never done anything like this before but decided to have a go. At the end of it all I wanted to get my car up to 500bhp but know that I did the engine work and the mapping myself. I've posted a first firing up on youtube here: r33gtst - GT3076R top mount turbo conversion I'd warmed it up once or twice prior to this run with the help of Richard @ Rising Sun here in the UK as tech support over the phone. In the vid its idling quite high due to numerous air leaks which I've since nipped up. also the idle valve needed adjusting. The tappyness is because the oil hasn't quite yet circulated round the engine. The gurgline at the end is because of air trapped in the radiator - I'm still trying to work that out the system. Any advice most welcome. A friend said cut a top off a bottle place it in radiator filling point and fill with water then let the engine run but not sure how that works - wont I flood the system with too much water? I've fired it up again this evening and the tapping has gone so thats good. I'm still trying to get the air out the system but the ECT seems to climb up quite alot which I'm a bit concerned about - it was heading for 88degrees C at one point so I switched it off and thought I'll let the air naturally get out the radiator by leaving the cap off. Without the bleed valve it seems alot slower for it to get the air out. anyhow hope you like the vid - heres a better quality pic of the bay... next steps are fit AEM wb - I'm just gonna put it in the downpipe where the narrowband one is for the moment - the AFR might be out slightly but it should be okay to get up n down the road for the minute I think and allow the ecu to adjust the low load cells.

@landscribble - lol cheers mate its finally starting to get there! Just some detailing like paint alternator and fan blades now (just using black hammerite lol.. hate the tatty look of alternators and the poor-dental-enamel colour of the fanblades!

thanks Craved - I think the diagram Tial show on that image at the top is written a bit skewed - they say 'before' the throttle plate which I think throws people but opon reading it again it says from intake manifold and before throttle plate so coming off my greddy plenum should be just fine heh! Yep I plan on running a boost solenoid with my G4 ecu but I'm waiting on that before I can wire it all in and plumb it up. I might just run this wgate without to start with and see how it all goes altho my end goal is .8 bar then scramble button for 1.5bar

hey guys as the title says really - just trying to understand how to plumb the ext. wgate in. This is what it says on the Tial website... here's what I have... off the side port of the wgate... along the back of the bay... to the greddy plenum... is this an epic fail or something? Do I have to get a fitting welded onto my intake pipe (with the air filter) because I heard it has to be before the throttle body... ...engine bay pic at present... any advice really appreciated ta

cool cheers Jonno - that sounds okay to get it up n running. I can fit the boost controller pipe once it arrives lol!

ah okay so: 6mm vac hose off plenum --> side of wgate - got it thankyou so if I dont run the boost controller will it only make the psi that the wgate spring is rated to (I think mine is only 12psi or something)? I mean theres a hole in the top now if I just run the one hose. Not 100% sure on how it all works tbh

hi Jonno thanks for your reply there - so basically If I just wanna run psi that the spring inside the ext wgate gives, then I would run a feed in through the side. If I want to run more then I will use a boost controller (which I plan to with my G4 link ecu) then I plumb from: plenum --> boost controller --> top of ext. wgate did I understand that right?

hey guys hope you dont mind me reviving an old thread, but I did a search and couldn't find much recent, so rather than start something new figured I'd add to this one... I'm in the midst of fitting my external wastegate at the moment - I've got it linked up to my downpipe and it all seems to fit neatly... pics below... I'm not running screamer - just back into downpipe... dont fancy being a police magnet really... there's 2 fittings on the wgate - one on the side (just visible in this pic) and one on the top of the bell housing bit (dont know the terminology sorry)... so reading the posts above I would hazard a guess that a 6mm vacuum hose coming off my greddy GTR style plenum onto the side fitting would be a good starting point. I'm guessing that would feed pressure to the wgate? However I'm a bit lost as to what the top one does... I found this diagram on Tial's site but it appears to be linking into a boost controller too... any advice on the ext. wgate stuff would be great thankyou! ant uk ps - this is my engine bay at the moment below... I'm fitting a gt3076 turbo... a few of the guys on here were following it on another thread about fitting a gt3076 turbo to an RB25DET....

@rad32 thats what swayed me mate. I think I should be okay once I wrap the other lines for a bit of added protection. I might make up a shield from some aluminium to cover the turbo too to protect the bonnet from the heat temps.

thanks Simon - I didn't realise you could buy those long oil drain flanges. However mine needs to be at an angle to prevent it hitting the manifold. anyway I mocked up an oil return pipe at home using some old aircon pipe which was flexible and malleable. I fitted this into my old oil return flange and took it down to the metalworker near me. He's gonna make me the flange and hardpipe as one piece so its probably gonna take a couple of back and to trips to his place for adjustments but at least I dont have to worry about heat wrapping etc, after all that. If I can get it past the manifold then I'll just use some silicon hose to connect it up to the block return. if this doesn't work I'll have to look into something else but I feel fairly confident it should... famous last words!

I'm contemplating just phoning a metal worker and asking them to come out and make me one up instead so I have a hardpipe instead. I've had enough trying to faff on with fittings especially purchase the sodding things here in the UK. the oil return flange for the turbo is $28 then a gasket $3 shipping.... $28 ?!!?!!??!!?!!!!!!!! for f**k sake man. honestly I'm fed to the back teeth of this - I've sat staring at this car now wondering what to do with this sodding oil return line for the last 2 weeks. Everytime I come up with a method I just hear someone come up with a reason as to why I shouldn't go that route... its like NO method exists at all. thoroughly fed up with all this now I really am

it bloody better be fun times after this little lot

yeah I might yet consider having Earls make up a metal pipe for me with the straight -10 AN fitting on one side just so I can get it past the manifold. I might phone them to see if they can come out ot me and make it up for me in situ. But first I need the oil return flange and the adaptor for the other side. oil return flange.. bloody thing is $60 dollars shipped to UK.. why aren't these things included with the turbo? Its clear you cant fit anything to the turbo oil return location unless you run the oem one off it hey ho..

I was told by Richard @ RSP over here in the UK that I ideally need a metal pipe running off the turbo.. at least to get past the manifold and the heat. Then the latter 1/3 of it can be silicon hose on the push on fitting (stock fitting) on the block. My plan is... buy this for the block... remove oem push on fitting and install... earls -10 AN to 3/4 BSP adaptor buy this for turbo... -10 AN oil return flange for GT series turbo then contact earls here in the UK and have them make me a 60cm oil return hose with straight -10 AN fittings on either end. I'll buy some fire sleeve for the oil return too to help keep the heat from the manifold off it. I think this will be the neatest option personally.

okay this is what I have so far... oil return flange for turbo + gasket oil return flange from ATP for the block I unscrew my current oil return push on fitting (pic attached) and install this.... adaptor for block my understanding is that I screw the side that is 3/4 NPT into the block? Then I just get a braided -10 AN hose made up with a -10 AN female end on both sides. Is that right? sorry for all the questions but if anyone can offer a thought to this that would be great. I'm no good at bojjing bits with a welder and I really dont want to do it on what is arguably one of the most important bits of the car!