Robo

HI All, I recently had a set of Falken FK451 GRB tyres put on the rear (255x40x17). Really good tyre... Quiet, predictable when on the limits. Anyway, I want some for the front now and I was told by the place I bought them from that Falken stoped making them... Can anyone confirm this? I am after a set of 235x45x17 for the front. Regards Rob

Hi all, As it turns out I took the brake light apart and re-soldered the blown resistor. Just replaced it with a paper clip and works fine... Only hard part about it all was getting the red cover off the backing...... F%$KING nightmare. Thanks Rob Ps. The series 1 brake light will not fit in a series 2 spoiler (already wasted $50 bucks on that.

Hi Enrico, I had the same problem as you.... My r33 had a big loss of power around 5000 rpm, took me about a month to work it out (soo annoying). All I did to fix my problem was find a friends AFM (which happened to be re-conditioned unit) and swap it with mine.. what a difference it made (I could feel it on the road). I have attached my dyno graph to show you. The lower of the two lines is with my old AFM. From what I remember it costs about $150 for a re-conditioned AFM. Regards Rob ps. not saying this will fix your problem, but for the price......

It could have been a different turbo... I never said it was the stock turbo, just wanted to know how much boost the stock one could handle.. I would have guessed upgraded turbo, just didn't have time to ask. Regards Rob Ps. A couple of times he managed to get all four wheels chirping on slight bends (showing off).. Don't know how hard that is but look impresive......

Haha, It was neck and neck all the way until I had an extra 500 rpm in 3rd and got in front.. I have: R33 gts-t ser 2 full 3" exhaust (turbo back) with high flow cat 10-11 psi boost FMIC oil air seperator 180 rwkw's (uni group eng.) Regards Rob

Hi all, Question: Will a WRX (latest model 03/04) be able to run 22 pounds of boost on the stock turbo? I had a quick run with a WRX (wagon) which went really hard, had a very quick chat with the driver and he mentioned he was running 22 pounds of boost... Is that possible or is that new turbo? Regards Rob

Hi All, Trying to track down a replacement rear brake light for the spolier (series 2). An R33 Gts-t. Regards Rob

Thank you all for your advice and input. Regards Rob

Thanks Merli, Is the inner guard liner going to cause any problems/issues with this set up. I'f I leave it can I get my self into trouble? Rob

Hi All, Sorry to post another thread. I upgraded my stock wheels to R33 GTR rims about 12 months ago. I'm sure many of people have done this. Front = 17x9 (235x45) Rear = 17x9 (255x40) As the front rims are 9" they scrub (only on full lock and on a slant in the road). Thing is, I can not for the life of me find where it is scrubing... No wear marks at all. Any ideas? Best regards Rob

Hahah Kris (Sewid)... "never sped again" hahahah I take it you are referring to driving the Daewoo not the Skyline... Hurry up and get your Power FC tuned. Rob

Ouucchh Some harsh replys.. Twas just a question. Thank you to all and your opinions. Best regards Rob

Hi All, Quick question, My bro got caught doing 15 kph and over in a 50 zone.. The cop wrote a ticket out (correctly). Then in the post the ticket requesting payment had the following mistakes: - mispelt surname & - incorrect rego (plates) Does this mean that he would have a case against them in not paying?? Best regards

Thanks all for your responses and information.. Just wanted to check if my brakes are up to spec. Also thinking about the brake pedal itself. Would one of those brake support brackets (I have seen them in the engine bay under/next to the brake fluid - I think they stop flex or something like that) help my case? Best regards Rob

Hi All, I have upgraded (R33 gts-t power = 180 rwkw's): -DBA slotted rotors -Bendix Ultimate pads -upgraded brake fluid (Dot 5.1) I'm sure if you push any car you will expeirence fade of some sort... Just recently doing a bit of "brake testing".. With my current set up I can do the following (back to back and sparing minimal time between each stop): - 120-0 kph - 100-0 kph - 80-0 kph - 80-0 kph - 80-0 kph - maybe one more 80-0 (can't remember). I noticed that I could still brake but the pedal started to go further down (like you had to push further to stop it) and the braking power was about 60%). I assume it is the pads that were starting to fade (as I could smell them). Any one know if this is any good or should they still be braking at 100%? Best regards Rob Ps. never been on the track

And another one

Hmm where did the photo go

Thought I would show you my FMIC, I purchased this FMIC second hand for under $1000 and it bolts striaght up to the existing plumbing... It's not too big but you can tell it does the job. The biggest improvement was the flow (up high like 4500 rpm) compared to the stock I/C. Then you also notice less heat soak on warm days. Anyways, I am also aiming for as close to 200 rwkw's as I can. The below FMIC will be fine: Regards Rob

Thanks for that. So I take it the internals are identical? Also what type of turbo does the neo RB25det run? How similar is to the gts-t turbo (eg. series 2 turbo)? Best regards

Hi all, I have a slightly different question (tried searching but can't seem to find): What is the exact difference between the two engines? (RB25DET gts-t and gt-t) Very interested to know. Regards Rob

Hi There, Thinking of getting a set of semi slick Azenis tyres for my R33 gts-t.. (255x40x17 rear & 235x45x17 fromt) Really interested to see if anyone currently use's these tyres on the street (yes, they are street legal)??? I understand they are soft compund and will wear much faster but does anyone know how many K's they got out of them?? Will it make a small or huge difference to handling on street? Best regards Rob

Second hand. Please message me or SMS on 0413 671 591. Regards Chris

Sorry for the late reply.. Yeah my old AFM was always a little faulty... At one stage when you just touched it, the car would idle like a yo-yo (up down, up down).. Yeah tried cleaning my old AFM with electrical Contact cleaner but did not do much.. On warm days the car felt alright (at low boost) and then as the nights got colder it would accelerate really well until about 4500 rpm then just dies...(well just felt slow) really really annoyinng.. I'll tell you when I swapped the AFM, I could even feel the difference in 1st gear... Happy days. Regards Rob Ps. Lets hope this fixes everyone's flat spots. haha

Yeah, I'm very happy that it was just the AFM... And the car feels soooo much better.. Robo's, what problem are you having?

Hi There, You may remember I had an issue with my R33 after I installed my exhaust.. The mods were: Boost (10 psi) via bleed valve Exhaust (3" from turbo & hi flow cat) Air filter FMIC (small - Medium size) Oil/Air seperator After I installed my exhaust I noticed a very bad flat spot (from 5000 rpm onwards).. Had it dynoed and was not happy at all... Did some research and worked out my AFM was faulty... Swapped it over with a mates and WOW.............. Check my dyno result (both have the same mods and same boost): Cheers Rob Ps. Sorry about the small photo