Robo

Also, If you have good hearing, slightly depress the accelerator (in neutral) and you will hear the fuel pump kick in.. sometimes you can hear it while cruising... sounds nice..

Thanks JimX. Great info... Just need to find a second hand GTR fuel pump... Regards Rob

Thanks for the info. One more quick question, what type of power out put is safe for the standard gts-t's fuel pump? If I am aiming at 200 rwk's will this be fine for the standard fuel pump (if it's in good health)? Regards Ps. What is the purpose of a fuel pressure regulator?

When replacing the fuel pump with something like the GTR unit (on a gts-t) will anything else need to be changed/tuned? like the power signal from the battery, ECU etc.. Is it just replace and drive off? Regards Rob

and another shot

No problems, Please see attached below. I was very very happy with my purchase.. cost about $800 and I fitted it myself.. I like it cause it's black as well...

So it seems I can just replace the shocks and leave the springs standard but it is recommended to get firmer springs to match.. Can I get firmer springs but retain the same ride hight?? Or are there only lower aftermarket springs available? Regards

Hi, Hey Roy13, You mentioned you want Brigestone Grid II's.. I have them... I find them to be shit... (255x40x17).. They have to be really warm for them to operate well and even then I find it very easy to spin them... Phantom, Very interested to see the result of what is out on the market for around $300 each.. Rob

I'm also interested to see what tyres we can get (that are of good quality) for 255mm's that are under $300 bucks...

Thanks nismoman, So if I install blistein sports shocks, keep the standard springs, will it make any improvement to my cornering ability/handling? I don't want to lower it.... Or would you recommend to get firmer springs to match the blistein shocks? regards

I would always suggest to anyone with Summer comming to get a FMIC.. Mine is not big but very efficent (especially for the power I have). My car had: - air filter - boost at 9 psi - FMIC & I got 163 rwkw's (on unigroup dyno). Keep in mind the standard ECU in these cars is SH%T.. I have had no end of problems with mine... Once I installed a full 3" exhaust and try to dyno it again with 11 psi I had a gapping hole at the high end of the rev range... With the cold weather and the mod's the car see's a large increase in air flowing through teh AFM (Air flow meter). This tells the computer thinks there is something wrong and retarss the timming and richen's the fuel... Thus a large flat spot in the high end of the rev range.. For those that are interested I have included my dyno runs... Red line - 9 psi, FMIC, pod filter, oil/air sperator Black line - 3" exhaust from turbo back (& high flow cat), all of the above mods & 11 psi.

Ok.. Your all pretty much correct. I started off with a stock standard R33 series 2 (96 model). First thing I did was put a bleed valve system in. Put the boost to 11psi. When it comes to installing the valve I totally disconnected the two small lines that connect to the boost solenoid and put a bleed valve between them. I then put a second bleed valve between the Intercooler piping and the wastegate. This did two things.. 1- It got rid of the dual stage boost sytem (in that it was boosting 11 psi from as little a 2600 rpm). I noticed the turbo starts to spool at about 2200 rpm and hits max at 2600rpm.. Alos noticed a massive increase in mid range torque & sounded much better... 2 - the 2 bleed valves helped the system with spiking and it was a very constant 11 psi of boost (no matter what gear). From there I started noticing heat soak... It would happen after 2 good spirited runs.. Then you pull up to a set of light and try and do it again.... you will feel it. (usually only in warm weather..) with regards to exhaust systems, if you install a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back this will increase boost a couple of PSI (especially higher in the rev range). From a full exhaust and 10-11 psi of boost (everything else stock) you should expect to see about 150-160rwkw's... That is about 20-35 rwkw's minimum increase. to be continued.

Hi There, For someone who has stock springs, bigger rims and stock shock's what is the best replacement for the shocks? Factory Nissan ones or aftermarket? Can you fit sports shocks with standard springs? Or is that a no no? Regards Rob

Hi Munna, How's it going? Is the car totally stock? The standard boost in your car will have a dual stage system in that the boost will increase a couple of psi at 5000 rpm.. If you install a boost gauge first (simple) then a bleed valve you will have 10 psi from as little as 2500 rpm all the way through the rev range... much better mid range and as Robo's said you can expect at least 10-15 rwkw's... One thing you will notice with the stock intercooler is heat soak..... Regards Rob

I bought some new wheels (255 x 40 x 17) and they came with Bridgestone "Grid II's"... Anyone know if they are sold here in Australia? (interested to see how much they go for) Also does anyone know how the new range of BF Goodrich are?? Anyone got them? Regards Rob

Nice Nickname....haha

HI Mate, Do you have any more details on your mods? I/C, Exhaust etc? An SAFC will fix the fuel ratios... And thats it.. Is the timming being pulled back as well? or just the fuel? Is the engine pinging? There are many variables that can cause something like this... It is one of the most common Skyline problems..... (thats what I think).. Regards Rob

Thanks for the advice.. So jlnewton, You replaced your shocks with aftermarket ones.. Did you fit lower springs as well or leave them stadard? Will it benefit me in anyway upgrading the shocks and leaving the springs standard? I think for know I will just go adj sway bars (do I need to go front and back?) and then maybe look at replacing the shocks.. Rob

Hi There, I currently have stock springs and shocks on my R33 gts-t. I have the following suspension upgrades: - 17" 235x45 front - 17" 255x40 rear.. - Front Strut brace - rear strut brace I'm fairly happy with the firmness (and don't want to lower it yet)but it just rolls too much. Looking for a better ride around corners.. essentially More grip............. I have been speaking with Whiteline and am looking at: - upgrading sway bar front and back - new camber/caster kit. Will this make much of a difference? I don't use it on any tracks just street use, and want more corner speed.. Will the camber kit sacrifice launches (due to the wheels not sitting flat on the road)?? or will I not notice it? Any advice is welcome especially those that have done this mod.. Regards Rob

I tested the fuel light recently... ( I thought my fuel light in the dash had blown) Skylines have a 65 ltr tank (R33's). When your needle gets to the last dash you still have about 12-15 ltrs left in the tank. The fuel light will come on if you are on the brakes going down a steep hill... (then goes off when you flaten out). the light will stay on if you have less than10 ltrs left. BENM, 63 ltrs to fill up.... That is very low.

Thanks for the info SydneKid, It was only running like 10-11 psi.... I never felt the flat spot before the dyno run (with the 3" exhaust) and sometimes ran 12-13 psi... I really have no idea... Question regarding the Power FC: - If I fit an Power FC will I have all the standard features that are in the factory ECU? - Will the Power FC have a Knock detection system in it? If so will it retart timing like the factory ECU does? - Is there anything else I should know about the Power FC before I buy it? Thanks for the info. Regards

Thanks Nick, So this payment for the Power FC.. Is it like I put the cash into an account and hope everything turns up.. Rgrds Rob

Thanks for your responses guys. Yeah, I'm hoping (fingers crossed) it was some bad fuel... I filled the tank up and threw in some octane booster and it felt a fair bit better (still had a slight hesitation up high).. Bloody well have to take it back to the Dyno to check tho.... Power FC is definately in the works... (have to buy a dog first haha). So what type of power could you expect from adding a Power FC? 190-200 rwkw's???? Rgrds Rob

Hi Everyone, Please please help: Story goes like this. I have an R33 gts-t 96 model. All runs have been done on the same dyno to keep accurate runs. Went to a dyno day (UniGroup) and achieved a healthy 160 rwkw's from the following mods: Boost = 8.5 psi FMIC Air filter oil/Air seperator Standard exhaust Very smooth power curve (strong in torque) and very nice Air/Fuel ratios for a stock ECU. So next stage was I installed: - 3" dump + front pipe (one piece) - 3" cat back exhaust - High flow cat - 17x9" rims (255 on the back) - Cold air partition Went back to go for a dyno run, but at the same time had the timming checked.. Timming all good except when everything went back together I was missing one cylinder... WTF.... One of the electrical plugs got disconnected from 5th Cylinder.. Anyways fixed it up and went to do a power run and the car was all over the place....(I'm sure the ECU caused this from the problem with the 5th cylinder) Drove around for a few days and reset the ECU. From this point I noticed a very BIG flat spot arount 5000 - 6300 RPM.. Any ways went back to the dyno and achieved a very S%$T result. (very bad fuel ratios and timming being retarded big time) As you can see there is a very big power loss.. The guys seems to think it is the ECU and it will get better. Any one have any suggestions as to what this problem is? Ps. Not ready to get an full comuter yet.. Cheers Rob

warrior_350, I would go for something like a replacement full face (steel backed) organic heavy duty clutch (with increased clamping rate) Both Unique Auto Sports and Just Jap sell them for around $550 I think.. This is what I will be looking at getting soon and I have the same requirements as you... I know your in QLD but have a look (on their web sites) and order it through the site (and have your local mech. install it etc..) Regards