Robo

Hi Everyone, I know eveyone has talked about this topic a few times now... but: I understand how an SAFC alters the Air/Fuel ratios and all that... Typical senario in that I went for a drive last night running 11 psi boost (was like 12 degrees out side) and that F$%KING flat spot came back again... (mods = boost, exhaust, I/C usual stuff). If I'm correct the reason behind the flat spot between 4500 - 6000rpm is due to the AFM reading higher than usual volt's (due to denser air) and telling the ECU to retard the timing... (also you really get a big kick just after 6000 rpm when all power comes back.. feels good) A few people have said to get an SAFC to fix this problem, I thought an SAFC will only alter fuel and not timming (thats the big brother Power FC). Not looking at buying an Power FC... maybe ab SAFC... Any info would be great. Ps. Can you run an high flowed turbo off an SAFC or do I need the Power FC to run properly?

Thanks mate... So are there ever any organised days/nights that everyone goes to?

Once again thanks for the replies. this may be a frequent quetion, but what is involved in running down the Qtr mile??? Are there any days where the strip is just for Skyline Australia members etc.. (EG. Dyno Days) that get organised? I would love to take it down to Eastern Creek and try my luck... Can anyone tell me if there is a specific day (like every month) that you can run your car or is it every night.. etc.. also is it any different launching on a drag strip to street??? I've heard tyres stick better to a drag strip... Thanks Rob

Thanks for all your reply's. Just wanted to clarify a few things, 1) Some of you say it is possible to crack a 13.5 (taking into consideration driver skill), Is this with a high flowed turbo and SAFC or with what I currently have?? (should I just get an SAFC and leave turbo?) 2) Has anyone actually high flowed their turbo (and replaced shafts with steel unit's)? How successful was it? At some stage I will go to Eastern Creek for a run (never done it before... should be fun). Thanks Rob

Hi there, Ok I currently have an R33 gts-t ser 2 with the following mod's: -Boost set to 11/12 psi -CAI with Pod filter -Full 3" exhaust (one piece front dump from turbo, hi flow cat and the trust cat back exhaust) -Oil/air seperator -Font mount I/C (Apexi Hybrid) -17" 235x45 front and 17"255x40 rear Should be about 180/190 rwkw's. I guess my aim is about a 13.5 second run 0-400 meters. I am not looking at changing injectors or internals of the RB25det. To me the car feels average (because I'm so used to it...). I would like some advice from those out there that were in the same situation or know about this. Should I go down the path of getting the turbo high flowed and replace the shafts with steel units? And if I did this will an SAFC work well?? (don't really want an power FC) Keep in mind I don't really want to totally change turbo's or waste too much money.. The most I want to spend from here is about $2K ($500 for SAFC and $1500 for hi flowed turbo). Can anyone also tell me what sort of rwkw's I could get from the above? And will this help me net a sub 13.5 second QTR mile run? Thanks for your help Rob

Hi 2fardown, I had roughly the same done to mine and cost me about $900. I figure if you love your car and want it to be in mint condition, then don't scrimp on the $$ when it comes to maintenance. Alot of people on the forum can gather enough $ for performance parts, why not do the same for maintenance.. Once again, thats my 2 cents worth... Cya Rob

Hi Everyone, I think you will find, the people who are hitting around 190 ish with the speed limiter are really only hitting about 180.. (if you have aftermarket wheels this will put it out) plus cars are always saying higher speeds than you are actually doing (factory cars).. Take for instance some of the new porche's One said it was doing 320 (or something like that) but on the radar it was only doing 294kph... (this was out of a motor PCOTY magazine a few years back). I though the Skyline in stockish form with out the speed limiter would get close to 240-250kph. Well thats my 2 cents worth and feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Regards Rob

A5H, More than likely lost connection with the dimmer switch... When they comply Skylines, they have to install a dimmer switch.. They probably ran the wire under the steering columb and when you ajusted the columb it pulled the wire out.. You should also find your rear lights aren't working either.. Fist things first, check your fuse's (just check both boxes - under bonnet and under dash). If all fine then you will need to take the entire front souround off (around your dash and sterio). There should be a post on this forum on how to take it off (not too dificult). Then re-wire it..don't forget to disconnect the battery. Cheers Rob

Out of interest would a set of Bendix Ultimates suit a set of slotted rotors???? Or can anyone recommened anything else? regards ps. for an R33 gts-t Rob

I am certainly in if it's UNIGROUP..... Just fitted a new exhaust from turbo back (and more boost)..... I'll try to convince my mate with his new 350Z to come. Cheers Rob

Hey, Has anyone had a run with a HSV COUPE (GTS or GTO). I was driving down Epping Road yesterday and had a Yellow HSV COUPE scream past me... I can't tell which one it was as it was badged. It was either the 255 kw or 300 KW job (probably the 255, hence the reason why he badged it). Ohh did I mention he was on his P's. hahah Big bloke in the car (just looked funny). My first thought was he had been done for speeding and lost his license or somethoing like that. So anyways had a little run and he couldn't pull away from me... I also noticed when the corner got a little tight he couldn't hold the car in the lane and it started skipping (I guess you could say) into the next lane...Where moine just sat very flat on the road.. Regards

How did you go??? Did you fix the problem? Regards Rob

Hi There, I also noticed the "powerdigger" at UAS (for $380). Seems like a really good buy. Quick question for those who have installed it. - Does the car fill "jerky" when on full boost as some one mentioned that is was changing half a psi up and down (at 20 psi). I am only planing to run 12 psi, will I notice it? How smooth is it under boost? - when it comes to installing it, where is the "map sensor" or "boost sensoe" what ever it is called... I should have no problems installing it just need to find that boost sensor (for an R33 gts-t) Thanks for your answers. Regards Rob

Hi Everyone, Could this boost problem be the AFM? (Air Flow Meter) or does the SAFC get rid of this? Cheers Rob

Thanks for the answers... Getting it fitted this Wednesday....Can't wait.. I'm like a little kid that eat too many lollies hahah Rob

Thanks, What about time frames? How long would it normally take? Regards

Hi there, Just picked up: - Second hand cat back system 3" - New high flow cat 3" (with flanges) - custom front pipe+dump (one piece) 3" Now all I need is someone to install it.. (the only hard part of it is the welding of the flanges to the high flow cat). Spoke to both BD4's & UNIQUE Auto's. How long will this process take (installation)? Also can anyone else recommmend a good place to have it installed? Regards

Thanks for that. So If I was to swap the set up to: 255x17x40 (at like 20psi) & 225x16x50 (normal psi to drive home in) Regards

Going back to the tyre size question, Which set up would net a better 60ft time? 1) 17" mags with 255x40x17 (36psi) or 2) Stock rims with 225x50x16 (15psi) Very interested to know which ones would obtain a better result. Stock suspension.

So what exactly is it that makes it squeak??? It does it every morning for me and does not go away until 30 minutes of driving. Really annoying. I just want to make sure I fix it, the same time I get a new clutch. Regards

Hey 2fardwown, Yeah that would be good... (I think it just needs lubrication, but you can't get to it very easily from the outside.. the best time to do it is when you install a new clutch). Keep us informed.. Regards

What is that component that people refer to when you change your cluth that gets rid of the squeaking noise?? Is it the Thrust bearing (locating in the gearbox). Or something similar. Thats what makes it squeak right? I will be upgrading my stock clutch (that squeaks like a bitch every morning) soon and want to make sure the mechanic attends to it at the same time.. Any advice would be great. Regards Rob

Would this not confirm if it is a blown bulb: Put the key in and turn the IGN to ON so that all the lights on the dash turn on... Can someone confirm for me if the petrol light comes on (when the key is "ON").. Cause I think mine is blown as well.... (used to come on all the time but never see it come on any more when petrol is low.

I see the logic...But.. When I installed my fromt mount IC there was no difference to the boost settings... I also measure my boost from the manifold and I installed an APEXI Hybrid I/C... (definately felt the better flow of the cooler) but no boost decrease or increase... Are you sure it's a 6 psi drop accross the standard I/C? Regards

Thanks for the answers... For me now, it's not that big a poblem (it hasn't gone wrong now for about 2 months).. Perhaps it is only a mild problem.. Thanks again.